Wilsons Sandbox

I'm new to the KLR world and to imported motorcycles in general. The smaller diameter of the handlebars combined with thin grips has my hands sore after a couple of hours in the saddle, especially on the highway. I was in a small dirtbike shop the other day having a set of tires mounted to my streetbike rims when I found a set of nice, close cell foam grips that looked to be just the ticket for my KLR. IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY GRIPS ON MY A20!!!! I have no idea what kind of adhesive they use, but re-enforced concrete's got nothing on this stuff. It completely bonded the rubber grip to the bar across every square inch of area under the grip. The clutch side was cut off in 1" chunks while working them with a pair of needlenosed pliers and a razor knife cutting the bond to the metal. When I finally got the rubber off I still had to work it over with a razor blade followed by sandpaper to get through the glue and remaining grip rubber. The throttle side was a little easier as they didn't use as much on the throttle tube. Another of those half hour jobs that ends up taking all night, but along with adjusting the handlebar position I think the effort will be well worth it. These are BikeMaster Superbike close cell foam grips and go for about $6 or $7 for the set. Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder rod and the brake lever clevis. As soon as I set it up as per the manual the master cylinder piston is pushed much earlier in the stroke as well as at a higher peddle position. I don't have my foot pointed towards the ground now when applying the rear brake. I had bled the system a couple of times thinking I has air in there. Found that my carb vent tube has gotten across the pipe at one time or another. Although it's clear now, it looks like I'll be doing the T-mod earlier than I planned. Hoppy

On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote:

> IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF > GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY > GRIPS ON MY A20!!!!

Yup. They live to really over do the glue on those.

> Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > rod and the brake lever clevis.

Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a dealer/factory prep issue. Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or were you messing with it before you got your service manual? -- Doug Herr doug@...

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Doug Herr wrote:

> On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote: > > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual?

Also note that there are some of us who "misadjust" the rear brake on purpose. Locking up your rear brake on the street is a perfect way to low-side your bike (just let go of the rear brake, and the bike will snap over to the other side of what it was leaning and throw you right off like bronco). Sliding down the road with 450 pounds of pig KLR bearing down on me from behind is not how I want to spend my days :-{. -E

> > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > > Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, > then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a > dealer/factory prep issue. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual? > > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... >

I Just got the bike a couple of weeks ago and it came that way from the factory. My manual calls for the master cylinder pushrod to protrude 0.12-0.14 in. into the inside of the peddle cleavis. Mine was almost twice that distance causing the peddle to have to travel much further down than it should before actuating the master cylinder piston. My service manual was inbound, but before it arrived I had done a bleed job to the rear system to eliminate the possibility of air in the system causing the same problem. Hoppy

Most of the time I just cut off the ends and push a Phillips screw driver up between the grip and the bar. Then I squirt in some chemical like WD-40 or ChemTool, letting it sit for awhile. After that it usually peels back off of the bar. Wear gloves, don't breath the stuff and wash your hand afterwards. George, who lost his grip a long time ago in Escondido, CA Doug Herr wrote:

> > On Fri, 21 Jul 2006, theoneandonlyhoppy wrote: > > > IN FORTY YEARS OF MOTORCYCLING I HAVE NEVER RUN UP AGAINST A SET OF > > GRIPS THAT WERE A BIGGER PAIN IN MY A$$ TO REMOVE THAN THE FACTORY > > GRIPS ON MY A20!!!! > > Yup. They live to really over do the glue on those. > > > Got my service manual in the mail and found my dissatisfaction with > > the rear brakes was due to a misadjustment of the master cylinder > > rod and the brake lever clevis. > > Your previous post seems to imply that you got a new KLR. If so, > then this is the first I remember hearing about that as a > dealer/factory prep issue. > > Was this misadjustment something that "came" with the bike or > were you messing with it before you got your service manual? > > -- > Doug Herr > doug@... > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.10.3/395 - Release Date: 7/21/2006 >

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Afternoon fellows, Has anyone had any experience with these side bags? Any recommendation.etc. http://www.tpi4x4.com/KLR650/Touring.htm Thanks for all the info. Greg --------------------------------- Groups are talking. We´re listening. Check out the handy changes to Yahoo! Groups. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, geobas wrote:

> > Most of the time I just cut off the ends and push a Phillips screw > driver up between the grip and the bar. Then I squirt in some

chemical

> like WD-40 or ChemTool, letting it sit for awhile. After that it > usually peels back off of the bar. > > Wear gloves, don't breath the stuff and wash your hand afterwards. > > George, who lost his grip a long time ago in > Escondido, CA

That's been my routine in the past, but there was no part of this grip that would allow even my smallest screwdriver to get between the grip and bar. The whole grip was bonded to the bar. After I peeled it with a razor the remaining adhesive just laughed at WD40 and even brake cleaner. Hoppy