In my particular case, it has nothing to do with the wiring I added.
I tapped into the KLR wiring in only 2 places...the city light
circuit and the positive terminal on the starter solenoid for battery
power. When I began having charging problems, I unhooked both
circuits so everything was back to stock, and used my multimeter to
check voltage at the battery...and it was still low.
As for the "slow leak to ground" theory, thats called a short, and
even a tiny short will cause the fuse to blow.
Jim
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Thor Lancelot Simon
wrote:
>
> On Sat, Jul 08, 2006 at 02:25:19PM -0400, Ernie Campbell wrote:
> > Stu im waiting for my permit still, it never goes even a week
before
> > i at least start it. Ive charged it with tops of per the manual,
level
> > fine in all chambers. stored room temp.Switch is plug and
play.When i
> > say im not that good at electrial its not as bad as some may
think.Also
> > Jim on this list with an 2006 is having somewhat the same
problems.
>
> "Jim on this list" has also added quite a bit of wiring to his bike,
> like you in the handlebar area where everything gets flexed a lot
and
> insulation faults are most common, and might have the same problem I
> suspect you do: a poorly insulated wire or junction that leaks
current
> to ground very slowly.
>
> Go over every connection you've even thought about touching -- in
fact,
> every one you've even breathed at -- take the insulation off and
wrap
> with tape _twice_ _neatly_ (if it doesn't look like a lineman's
insulated
> splice on a telephone pole, you didn't do a good enough job) back
to 2cm
> or so from the actual conneciton point or, if it's a solder joint,
check
> the joint, then brush with liquid electrical tape, allow to dry,
then
> tape once thoroughly (and neatly).
>
> It's also possible that there's a slow leak to ground somewhere in
that
> aftermarket push-to-cancel turn signal switch. I have no idea where
> those actually come from and I've heard some dealers selling them
don't
> either -- maybe they're defective parts from some other bike, it
wouldn't
> be the first time. Try the original switch again.
>
> But first, take that battery out of the bike. Top up to spec with
> distilled water (or throw it away, if you ever put tap water in it),
> and trickle-charge for several hours, checking that 1H after
charging
> the voltage of the battery is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery
in
> the bike, crank the bike to start, take the battery back out, check
> that voltage is still well above 12V. If either of these aren't
true,
> your battery is toast.
>
> And don't abuse your battery any more by assuming that starting the
bike
> or idling the bike charges it. You have to get the KLR to at least
2000
> RPM to put any kind of charge into the battery at all, and it needs
at
> least 10-20 minutes of that to make up for what starting the bike
takes
> out.
>
> Thor
>