Wilsons Sandbox

As many of you suggested, I tested the old battery and it was really dead. I replaced it but now I still have no, and I mean NO electrical. There is no panel lights, no turn signal, no headlight (at all), no brake light, no indication of electrial power anywhere in the bike. Dave had replaced the old fuses with the flat inline type, so I checked those and they seem ok. Does is sound like I reversed polarity somewhere and blew out something? I have the manual but can't really make heads or tails of the electrical parts. Thanks in advance. Sam -------------------------------------------------------------------- mail2web - Check your email from the web at http://mail2web.com/ .

Is your battery fully charged (what's the voltage?) If you have 11+ volts, check to make sure you have a good ground (on the right side under the exhaust just below the cylinder. If good ground and wire, then you're going to have to trace wires to relays, etc. Typically, draining a battery won't harm anything and for sure not everything, so keep it simple here and look for/test the obvious.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "steel@..." wrote: > > > As many of you suggested, I tested the old battery and it was really dead. > I replaced it but now I still have no, and I mean NO electrical. There is > no panel lights, no turn signal, no headlight (at all), no brake light, no > indication of electrial power anywhere in the bike. > > Dave had replaced the old fuses with the flat inline type, so I checked > those and they seem ok. Does is sound like I reversed polarity somewhere > and blew out something? I have the manual but can't really make heads or > tails of the electrical parts. > > Thanks in advance. > Sam > > ------------------------------------------------------------------- - > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > http://mail2web.com/ . >

Does is sound like I reversed polarity somewhere

> and blew out something? I have the manual but can't really make

heads or

> tails of the electrical parts. > > Thanks in advance. > Sam

Sam, I'm not sure about the KLR, But this winter I ask someone to install a battery for me in my quad. After he left, I had the same thing and after checking, found the battery cables reversed. After installing them correctly - nothing! I didn't need a manual but just began tracing wires and found a fused link. This was on a yamaha 350 warrior. It wasn't hard to find the fuse and yamaha even had a spare inside. Replaced it and it fired right up. Most all bikes have something similar to prevent direct current from moving the wrong direction. Since you bring it up in your post - it seems you have reason to believe polarity was reversed. I did take a quick look at my KLR and the manual as well. The manual shows a fuse on the charging system immediately after the battery on the positive side. It's on a white wire connected to the main (red) positive wire. My fuses have all been upgraded, but this is a fuse under the seat. If this is a new battery, you should be able to chase this down easy enough with just a 12v test light/probe. The battery would have to be pretty drained not to even give you some dim lights. I'd bet you have a cooked fuse from a battery momemtarily cabled wrong. -Camogreg

are you sure the igntion keyed switch is working ? Not that I have ever heard of this dying. Check the white wire and fuse and especially right at the crimp connectors. Could be a bad situation there.

> --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "steel@" wrote: > > > > > > As many of you suggested, I tested the old battery and it was > really dead. > > I replaced it but now I still have no, and I mean NO electrical. > There is > > no panel lights, no turn signal, no headlight (at all), no brake > light, no > > indication of electrial power anywhere in the bike. > > > > Dave had replaced the old fuses with the flat inline type, so I > checked > > those and they seem ok. Does is sound like I reversed polarity > somewhere > > and blew out something? I have the manual but can't really make > heads or > > tails of the electrical parts. > > > > Thanks in advance. > > Sam > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------

-

> - > > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > > http://mail2web.com/ . > > >

I have never used Shimcalc, I find it

> easier to just remember that each step up or down in shim size is a change of > .002". > Good luck-- > Kurt

That's also what I do. Nothing can be simpler. The Shimcalc - as in this case - can cause confusion. I do get anal and measure both outgoing and incoming shims; if they're both off that can make a bit of a difference. Bogdan