Wilsons Sandbox

>So the questiuon is: what would one stand to gain/lose by removing >the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. >

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Gabe" wrote: > > OK, this one is for the seasoned KLR engine masters, or anyone else > that has an informed opinion: > > Fisrt off: this is a 2005 KLR650, 6900 miles. All manitenance is > done regularly. Runs awesome, never any problems. 'cept for things > falling off, but we all know about that... > > So the questiuon is: what would one stand to gain/lose by removing > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. If you don't > know what it is, go do some research! ) > > I have heard mentioned a couple of times around here that folks have > removed theirs with no ill effects. The reason I ask is I have this > ticking noise that is driving me mad, and I have an idea it might be > the KACR. > > This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct observations of > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of the sound, the > fact that others have reported the same noise and suspected the > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is not exactly the > most bulletproof part of this engine. > > The noise comes from the upper forward area of the engine, right > side (right where the KACR is), somewhat intermittent ticking sound, > definitely metal-to-metal. It deosn't start ticking until the engine > is warm, and it has gotten slighty more constant and a little louder > over time. When I first noticed it the noise would come and go > every thirty seconds or so, ticking for a few seconds and then > stopping. Now it is pretty much constant; once the engine is warmed > up a little bit, it's ticking away... Before you suggest valves, > it made the same noise before and after the valve adjustment. > (Valves were at lower end of spec, I adjusted to upper end) I've > also taken out and inspected the cam chain tensioner just for shits > and giggles, and it was fine. > > So after listening to this ticking noise each and every time I ride > the bike for the last 4000 miles or so and thinking, "Damn, that > just doesn't sound [i]healthy[/i]...", I am at the popint where I > want to try something. I plan on keeping this bike for as long as > it lives, and I would like that to be a long time. > > First move, of course, is cracking the motor open and taking a look > at the KACR, valves, etc...but then I don't really know what I am > looking for. I know where things are, but I'm not enough of a > mechanic to spot something if it's not an obviously messed up part. > So I figure while I've got it taken apart, why not just whack the > damn KACR off? After all isn't it just a vestigal part, made > obsolete and unnecessary by the modern wonder of electric start? > > The unknowns for me are: How hard is it? What tools to do I need? > How precise do you have to be? What are the potential risks of > doing it? (besides the obvious "yew could F yer engine up real good > if'n you put it back tuhgether wrong or drop pieces of metal into > yer engine" stuff) > And finally, if I did successfully remove it, what are the downsides > of not having one? > > Thanks for reading, and thanks even more for your replies... > > :cheers: >

> Al writes: >> > I did it to my A14. Did not help anything. Did not hurt anything.

> why not cut the bastard off? >

> So the questiuon is: what would one stand to > gain/lose by removing > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system.

> This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct > observations of > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of > the sound, the > fact that others have reported the same noise and > suspected the > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is > not exactly the > most bulletproof part of this engine.

> > I could be wrong, but I don't think the KACR is a > known weak point on the KLR650. I believe it had a > history of failing on the KLX and maybe the old 600, > but I can't remember having heard of one failing on a > KLR. Which isn't to say it hasn't happened, but just > that I think it's almost always harmless. > > I don't know anything about removing it, but I can > name two good reasons to leave it on: > > 1. I believe that the KACR is a big factor in why you > can often pump the water out of a swamped KLR without > pulling the plug and all that jazz. Conventional > wisdom says this can't be done (hydraulic lock etc), > or will lead to a bent rod or damaged crank (sounds > like a hell of a lot of torque for a little starter, > but who am I to argue). I and at least a small > handful of other listers have seen a totally swamped > KLR able to clear its own cylinder through short taps > on the starter. Without the KACR yes, you could pull > the plug and do it that way, but that's a PITA and > gives that 650cc of nasty water a much longer chance > to soak past your rings, contaminate your oil, and > generally ruin your day. > > 2. Bump starting a KLR is a pain in the ass even with > a KACR (650cc is a lot of compression to overcome, > even on pavement WITH the relief). Imagine trying to > bump start one on a dirt road, miles from nowhere, > WITHOUT it. > > If you pull it keep us in the loop. I'm a curious > man. > > -Luke > > > So the questiuon is: what would one stand to > > gain/lose by removing > > the KACR? (Kawasaki Auto Compression Release system. > [SNIP] > > This diagnosis is not based on any facts or direct > > observations of > > the KACR, but simply on the location and nature of > > the sound, the > > fact that others have reported the same noise and > > suspected the > > KACR, and the fact that by most accounts the KACR is > > not exactly the > > most bulletproof part of this engine. > [SNIP] > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com >

> Running without the KACR puts a lot of extra load on > the starter and battery.