Wilsons Sandbox

>Can someone explain to me how it is to be used?

After losing my master link clip a couple of week ago, I used a short piece of safety wire around the clip and side plate to keep the clip from leaving again. This is the first clip I have lost in over 30 years of riding. If you use wire, make sure that it won't wear on the sprockets or orings. Gary B.

You can buy a chain riveter, which rivets the pins just like on the oringinal endless chain. Even saw one in JC whitney, but Don't remember the price. Dave clack44 wrote:In the past two days I have had two master links fail on my chain.In both instances I had two master links on either side of a regular link.The clip came off of one of the master links in each instance.Is there any way top install another type link like a press on type? The chain that it last broke on was a brand new o ring chain.The bike is a 96 KLR 650. List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more faith.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Somebody mentioned a DID tool costing about $100 in the other thread. If that's the tool you are referring to, it's probably the KM500, made by DID to install the ZJ rivet link. I've got one (they aren't easy to find), because I use rivet links on my street bike. People say it's stronger than using a clip link. But I use the motion pro mini-tool to press the plates for my FJ clip master links and I've never had a problem getting them on. Randy

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Glen" wrote: > i was reading a post about a master link installation tool. i knew > they existed but i didn't think they were necessary when installing > a master link. i just removed and installed one on my o-ring chain > not that long ago with nothing but a screwdriver. is this a bad > idea?? does this mean that my chain is worn out?? anyone else do > it this way or does everyone use the specific tools?? > > glenski > > a14

glenski_31@... wrote:

>i was reading a post about a master link installation tool. i knew >they existed but i didn't think they were necessary when installing >a master link. i just removed and installed one on my o-ring chain >not that long ago with nothing but a screwdriver. is this a bad >idea?? >

That's a matter of opinion. I would say yes, because in my opinion a master link is a one-time-use consumeable item. You put it on one exact way using the correct tool, and once you remove it, it's ruined and you fit a new one. Maybe I'm nuts but I've had (knocking on wood now) exactly ZERO master link failures in over 50,000mi on chain-driven motorcycles. 30,000 of that was on my KLR, and I've banged that bike through rock gardens many times.

>does this mean that my chain is worn out?? anyone else do >it this way or does everyone use the specific tools?? >

Modern clip master links are designed with an interference fit between the side plate and the pins. Once you put the sideplate on, off, and on again it's no longer tight on the pins. Now it will move and wiggle the clip if the chain gets pushed unevenly, like in rocks, or if road debris gets kicked up into the chain. I fit the side plate using the chain press (presses the sideplate on perfectly square, keeping it really tight on the pins) until there's just enough room to fit the clip. I put the clip on, then use a chain breaker to CAREFULLY back off the side plate .25mm or whatever it takes to jam the clip in its grooves. Often to remove the clip I first need to use the chain press to push the sideplate back in. BTW if you replace your lower subframe bolts, be EXTREMELY careful that the bolt on the chain side does not stick out of the nut welded on the inside of the frame. The chain will hit it when you compress the suspension. -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man

> > Home Depot and hardware stores usually carry #4 washers of some form (#6 said > to work too). > I use Nylon #4 (.035" thk) washer to shim the carb needle on my KLR carb. Easy > mod, sure you've heard of it. > Takes about 15 minutes to get to it, and about 5 seconds to perform the > actual. > > Mod Cost: $0.41 for 3-pak washers > Gain: Noticable to Substantial > > 1 washer yeilded noticable low-mid range increase, +1mpg. Also removed rubber > airbox grommet (induction silencer). > Have not put 2 nylon washers together yet. >

Yeah..I did that to sync the carb with my exhaust after performing a Tweetyectomy. I first shimmed the needle with a tiny metal washer from Ace Hardware and then thought it ran better after I added yet another. Looking back I should have measured the shims with my micrometer but it wasn't at hand. Unlike drilling the slide this procedure can be easily reversed and is a more subtle change than changing jets. Bogdan, who someday would like to check this stuff with an exhaust analysis