Wilsons Sandbox

Frederic Neema wrote:

>I have not started any work on my new KLR 650 yet but already bought >most of the tools I might need. > >Following someone's advice, I purchased a Crafstman Torque wrench >#44593 3/8" drive 25-250 inch pounds but after checking some of info >in the Clymer manual and on the web, I have the feeling that it might >not be the right one and I might even need at least two. Any advice? >What do you use? > >

Your feeling that you'll need two is correct. The one you got will work for smaller bolts, but you'll need the bigger 1/2" one that goes up to I think 150 ft/lbs to handle the bigger stuff like the wheel nuts and the rear suspension linkage bolts and such. -E

I agree you need two. I have that same torque wrench and it does MOST of what I need. But I also have a 1/2 drive that goes up to 140 foot pounds. I use the latter to toque axle nuts, countershaft nuts etc. -----Original Message----- From: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com [mailto:DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Frederic Neema Sent: Saturday, January 07, 2006 10:25 PM To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Torque Wrench for the KLR 650 I have not started any work on my new KLR 650 yet but already bought most of the tools I might need. Following someone's advice, I purchased a Crafstman Torque wrench #44593 3/8" drive 25-250 inch pounds but after checking some of info in the Clymer manual and on the web, I have the feeling that it might not be the right one and I might even need at least two. Any advice? What do you use? Thank you Frederic Neema Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links

On Sun, 08 Jan 2006 06:24:48 -0000 "Frederic Neema" writes:

> I have not started any work on my new KLR 650 yet but already bought > > most of the tools I might need. > > Following someone's advice, I purchased a Crafstman Torque wrench > #44593 3/8" drive 25-250 inch pounds but after checking some of info > > in the Clymer manual and on the web, I have the feeling that it > might > not be the right one and I might even need at least two. Any advice? > > What do you use? > > Thank you > > Frederic Neema

Frederic, I have four torque wrenches. One is a beam type 1/2" drive good to maybe 150 ft lbs. That was my first torque wrench and I've had it since maybe 1974. The others are clickers from Sears. An inch pound, a foot pound to about 75 foot pounds and a 1/2" drive foot pound good to I think it's 250 foot pounds. All of them have situations where they shine. I suggest you consider making sure you have overlap in the sizes you choose. I often use the inch pound model for light foot pound torque settings. And when you need to torque the axle nuts sometimes the small foot pound model is almost maxed out while the larger model is at the lower to middle of it's range. If I was only gonna have two torque wrenches I'd buy an inch pound model good to 250 inch pounds and a foot pound model good from 10 to 75 or so foot pounds. I think that would cover just about everything a guy would need for most KLR work. Tightening up rear suspension fasteners and axle nuts would still be doable I think but just at the high end of the range. If I was only gonna have one torque wrench I'd probably keep the inch pound model. Those are the fasteners that will easily snap if over torqued and also probably hold case covers on etc. I think I could pretty accurately tighten larger fasteners and even if I was off a few foot pounds it would probably still work. My choice is to have enough torque wrenches available so I don't have to guess. If you need to convert foot pounds to inch pounds you multiple by 12. An example is an 18 foot pound setting like I think the triple tree clamps onto the fork tubes. 18 foot pounds multiplied by 12 = 216 inch pounds. To convert inch pounds to foot pounds you divide by 12. An example is a specification of 250 inch pounds. Divide 250 inch pounds by 12 = 20.8 foot pounds. Good luck with choosing your tools. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Thank you Jeff for your input. I'll go to Sears tomorrow to get the 1/2" drive 20-150 foot pounds. Since I already have the 25-250 inch- pounds, I think that both should cover almost everything I need.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > I have four torque wrenches. One is a beam type 1/2" drive good to maybe > 150 ft lbs. That was my first torque wrench and I've had it since maybe > 1974. The others are clickers from Sears. An inch pound, a foot pound > to about 75 foot pounds and a 1/2" drive foot pound good to I think it's > 250 foot pounds. All of them have situations where they shine. I > suggest you consider making sure you have overlap in the sizes you > choose. I often use the inch pound model for light foot pound torque > settings. And when you need to torque the axle nuts sometimes the small > foot pound model is almost maxed out while the larger model is at the > lower to middle of it's range. > > If I was only gonna have two torque wrenches I'd buy an inch pound model > good to 250 inch pounds and a foot pound model good from 10 to 75 or so > foot pounds. I think that would cover just about everything a guy would > need for most KLR work. Tightening up rear suspension fasteners and axle > nuts would still be doable I think but just at the high end of the range. > > If I was only gonna have one torque wrench I'd probably keep the inch > pound model. Those are the fasteners that will easily snap if over > torqued and also probably hold case covers on etc. I think I could > pretty accurately tighten larger fasteners and even if I was off a few > foot pounds it would probably still work. My choice is to have enough > torque wrenches available so I don't have to guess. > > If you need to convert foot pounds to inch pounds you multiple by 12. An > example is an 18 foot pound setting like I think the triple tree clamps > onto the fork tubes. 18 foot pounds multiplied by 12 = 216 inch pounds. > > To convert inch pounds to foot pounds you divide by 12. An example is a > specification of 250 inch pounds. Divide 250 inch pounds by 12 = 20.8 > foot pounds. > > Good luck with choosing your tools. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT >

On Sun, 08 Jan 2006 17:25:32 -0000 "Frederic Neema" writes:

> Thank you Jeff for your input. I'll go to Sears tomorrow to get the > 1/2" drive 20-150 foot pounds. Since I already have the 25-250 > inch- > pounds, I think that both should cover almost everything I need. > >

Frederic, Please make sure you understand most torque wrenches aren't considered accurate in the bottom maybe 20% of the scale and maybe the very top of the scale too. The inch pound torque wrench is probably only good to about 18 foot pounds. Then your foot pound torque wrench will really start around 40+ foot pounds. That will leave you an accuracy gap. : ( If I was in your position I think I'd get the 10-75 foot pound torque wrench and make everything else good and tight. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Just remember that the lowest 20% of a torque wrench's range is the least accurate. So, try to use the torque wrench that will put the torquing value above this lowest 20%. Also important...ALWAYS exercise your torque wrench at least 4 times at its lowest setting prior to setting the proper torque and using. Also, always store your torque wrench at its lowest setting and handle with care as if it were fragile (don't drop it or knock it around). Finally, use your torque wrench with a smooth fluid motion...no jerking to achieve the desired torque...especially important on small fasteners. Scott Frederic Neema wrote: Thank you Jeff for your input. I'll go to Sears tomorrow to get the 1/2" drive 20-150 foot pounds. Since I already have the 25-250 inch- pounds, I think that both should cover almost everything I need.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jeff Saline wrote: > > I have four torque wrenches. One is a beam type 1/2" drive good to maybe > 150 ft lbs. That was my first torque wrench and I've had it since maybe > 1974. The others are clickers from Sears. An inch pound, a foot pound > to about 75 foot pounds and a 1/2" drive foot pound good to I think it's > 250 foot pounds. All of them have situations where they shine. I > suggest you consider making sure you have overlap in the sizes you > choose. I often use the inch pound model for light foot pound torque > settings. And when you need to torque the axle nuts sometimes the small > foot pound model is almost maxed out while the larger model is at the > lower to middle of it's range. > > If I was only gonna have two torque wrenches I'd buy an inch pound model > good to 250 inch pounds and a foot pound model good from 10 to 75 or so > foot pounds. I think that would cover just about everything a guy would > need for most KLR work. Tightening up rear suspension fasteners and axle > nuts would still be doable I think but just at the high end of the range. > > If I was only gonna have one torque wrench I'd probably keep the inch > pound model. Those are the fasteners that will easily snap if over > torqued and also probably hold case covers on etc. I think I could > pretty accurately tighten larger fasteners and even if I was off a few > foot pounds it would probably still work. My choice is to have enough > torque wrenches available so I don't have to guess. > > If you need to convert foot pounds to inch pounds you multiple by 12. An > example is an 18 foot pound setting like I think the triple tree clamps > onto the fork tubes. 18 foot pounds multiplied by 12 = 216 inch pounds. > > To convert inch pounds to foot pounds you divide by 12. An example is a > specification of 250 inch pounds. Divide 250 inch pounds by 12 = 20.8 > foot pounds. > > Good luck with choosing your tools. > > Best, > > Jeff Saline > ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal > Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org > The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota > 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT > Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Yahoo! Photos Showcase holiday pictures in hardcover Photo Books. You design it and we ll bind it! [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

> From: Jeff Saline > If I was only gonna have two torque wrenches I'd buy an inch pound model > good to 250 inch pounds and a foot pound model good from 10 to 75 or so > foot pounds. I think that would cover just about everything a guy would > need for most KLR work.

50% agree, on the inch pound one If I was buying a 3/8 or 1/2" t/wrench, I'd get one that went upto 150 ft/lb. May as well, additional cost is minimal and there are bolts on the KLR needing more than 75 ft/lb. Downside is that it's longer and a bit more cumbersome. If I were getting two, I'd get: - inch pound wrench - 20-150 ft/lb Sears Microtorque (I think Jeff posted saying it was on sale next weekend via the Craftsman Club). For inch pound, I personally like the Harbor Freight t/wrench. Quality wise it isn't a Craftsman but: - It's 1/4" rather than 3/8" and most of my Craftsman sockets I use in these low torque situations are 1/4". No need to go find the 3/8"->1/4" converter. - It's super cheap, like $25. - It includes it's own case, thats $7 extra for the Sears ones and they don't stock the case at the stores, you've gotta mail-order it (w/ postage). I don't use it regularly, if you're going to be using it regularly, get the Craftsman inch/pound one. Pro mechanics buy SnapOn and to a lesser degree Craftsman for a reason. Tony

On Sun, 8 Jan 2006 19:55:35 -0800 "Frederic Neema" writes: Hi Jeff: Thank you for your help. Do you mean that most of the bolts need 75 ft-lbs max?

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Frederic, I've posted this to the list as it may help some other folks figure out what they really need for torque wrenches too. Yes, 72 ft lbs max for all but one bolt as you'll see below. I just happen to have my factory manual here after Jim's problem with fork oil. Here are some torque specs on stuff I think you might work on. This is from the supplement and I'm just grabbing them quickly from the front specs. It looks like new models have changed just a small bit in a couple of areas. As you'll see from the list the highest spec is 130 ft lbs and then next highest is 72 ft lbs. That's my reasoning for getting the 10-75 ft lbs torque wrench. I think it will better fit the needs for this bike. You may be able to find someone who would bring a larger torque wrench out for you to use if you do your doohickey. That's probably a one time event for most KLR owners. cylinder head cover bolts 69 in lbs cam shaft cap bolts 104 in lbs starter motor mounting bolts 87 in lbs cover damper mounting bolts 87 in lbs engine drain plug 16.5 ft lbs engine mount bolts 8mm 18.0 ft lbs 10mm 33 ft lbs swing arm pivot bolt and nut 14mm 72 ft lbs front axle nut 58 ft lbs rear axle nut 68 ft lbs *87-96?? engine sprocket bolts 87 in lbs *96-99??? No specs??? I think its the same as 2000 *2000 and newer engine sprocket nut 72 ft lbs rear sprocket nuts 24 ft lbs caliper mounting bolts 18.0 ft lbs disc mounting bolts 16.5 ft lbs front fork clamp bolts and nuts 18.0 ft lbs fork top bolts 22 ft lbs fork bottom allen bolts 29 ft lbs rear shock absorber mounting upper 12mm 43 ft lbs lower 14mm 72 ft lbs swing arm pivot bolt and nut 14mm 72 ft lbs rocker arm pivot bolt and nut 14mm 72 ft lbs tie-rod bolts and nuts 14mm 72 ft lbs handlebar clamp bolts 17.5 ft lbs rear frame mounting bolts 18.0 ft lbs ***magneto flywheel bolt 130 ft lbs (Doohickey replacement) This bolt is suggested as a one time use bolt! For what ever it's worth... in my shop there are very few folks that are allowed to use my torque wrenches. And I'm the guy that sets them and then returns them to the case. That way I know they weren't used to loosen fasteners, the adjusters are used properly and they are returned to the case in good condition. Folks allowed to work in my shop don't seem to have any problem with that and if they do they are welcome to bring they're own torque wrench and use or abuse it. Best, Jeff Saline ABC # 4412 South Dakota Airmarshal Airheads Beemer Club www.airheads.org The Beautiful Black Hills of South Dakota 75 R90/6, 03 KLR650, 79 R100RT

Any time that I have wanted something that is only available online from Sears, I have it shipped to my local store, and pay no shipping. Jason ----Original Message Follows---- From: Tony Jones To: DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_KLR650] Re: Torque Wrench for the KLR 650 Date: Sun, 08 Jan 2006 18:41:40 -0800

> From: Jeff Saline > If I was only gonna have two torque wrenches I'd buy an inch pound model > good to 250 inch pounds and a foot pound model good from 10 to 75 or so > foot pounds. I think that would cover just about everything a guy would > need for most KLR work.

50% agree, on the inch pound one If I was buying a 3/8 or 1/2" t/wrench, I'd get one that went upto 150 ft/lb. May as well, additional cost is minimal and there are bolts on the KLR needing more than 75 ft/lb. Downside is that it's longer and a bit more cumbersome. If I were getting two, I'd get: - inch pound wrench - 20-150 ft/lb Sears Microtorque (I think Jeff posted saying it was on sale next weekend via the Craftsman Club). For inch pound, I personally like the Harbor Freight t/wrench. Quality wise it isn't a Craftsman but: - It's 1/4" rather than 3/8" and most of my Craftsman sockets I use in these low torque situations are 1/4". No need to go find the 3/8"->1/4" converter. - It's super cheap, like $25. - It includes it's own case, thats $7 extra for the Sears ones and they don't stock the case at the stores, you've gotta mail-order it (w/ postage). I don't use it regularly, if you're going to be using it regularly, get the Craftsman inch/pound one. Pro mechanics buy SnapOn and to a lesser degree Craftsman for a reason. Tony Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links