195 degree stat 2nd test

[squirrellsalegend]

Dear All, I have just bought a KLR650, 95 model and was wondering if it is safe, advisable to remove the baffler from the exhaust pipe. How loud is it when the baffler is removed? Are there any decent aftermarket exhaust pipes that have a better note than the origional? Thanks

[Walter Mitty]

Short of using a cutting torch, the baffles cannot be removed from the stock exhaust. The stock exhaust makes more horsepower above 5,000 rpm than any aftermarket I have seen tested. If you need more horsepower below 5,000 rpm you need to downshift. If it is just noise you are after, remove the stock muffler. squirrellsalegend wrote: Dear All, I have just bought a KLR650, 95 model and was wondering if it is safe, advisable to remove the baffler from the exhaust pipe. How loud is it when the baffler is removed? Are there any decent aftermarket exhaust pipes that have a better note than the origional? Thanks Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 Yahoo! Groups Links --------------------------------- Yahoo! Shopping Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Ed Chait]

> Short of using a cutting torch, the baffles cannot be removed from the > stock exhaust. The stock exhaust makes more horsepower above 5,000 rpm > than any aftermarket I have seen tested. If you need more horsepower below > 5,000 rpm you need to downshift. If it is just noise you are after, > remove the stock muffler. >

He didn't say he was after noise. He said he was after better sound. As I have mentioned before, for many of us, a nice exhaust note is something we really like. The stock KLR-650 exhaust doesn't provide that. ed A17

[clint lee jin yew]

i dont know if its true...... but all you have to do is get a long metal rod and hit it thhrough the exhaust. it will back fire abit though clint

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Ed Chait" wrote: > > > > > > > Short of using a cutting torch, the baffles cannot be removed from the > > stock exhaust. The stock exhaust makes more horsepower above 5,000 rpm > > than any aftermarket I have seen tested. If you need more horsepower below > > 5,000 rpm you need to downshift. If it is just noise you are after, > > remove the stock muffler. > > > > > He didn't say he was after noise. He said he was after better sound. > > As I have mentioned before, for many of us, a nice exhaust note is something > we really like. The stock KLR-650 exhaust doesn't provide that. > > ed > A17 >

[Chris]

> From: Walter Mitty > Subject: Re: KLR exhaust pipes > The stock exhaust makes more horsepower above 5,000 rpm than any > aftermarket I have seen tested. If you need more horsepower below > 5,000 rpm you need to downshift.

I cruise at 5700 on the freeway, but I've never gone over 5k offroad. The meat of the powerband is down there, might as well optimize for it. Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Explosion Dynamics Laboratory John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125

[Analog Aardvark]

Prior to popping for an aftermarket exhaust, you might try the "detweeting" mod a lot of us have done--Take a flashlight and look in the end of the muffler. See that seam? Take a long chisel (or screwdriver) and a hammer and split that seam open nearly, but not quite to, the end. Start the bike and take a listen. Still suck? Try it again. I split mine at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock and the tweet is almost 100% gone but still a pretty quiet exhaust. I guess some folks split 3 and 9 too, but I was worried about the bike getting loud, and where I ride stealth is important. This will usually get rid of that VW muffler sound. Aftermarket I have little experience with, but I've seen a Big Gun tear apart at the rivets in a month, and the folks I've talked to with SuperTrapps seem unhappy with how loud it has to be to flow well enough to be worth it. People talk highly of the Laser ProDuro, which ain't cheap. If you're handy with a welder I'm sure you could cut open a stock can and reconfigure the innards, but you'd be flying blind. Let us know what works for ya. -Luke a17 --- squirrellsalegend wrote:

> Dear All, > > I have just bought a KLR650, 95 model and was > wondering if it is safe, > advisable to remove the baffler from the exhaust > pipe. > > How loud is it when the baffler is removed? > > Are there any decent aftermarket exhaust pipes that > have a better note > than the origional? > > Thanks > > > > > > > Archive Quicksearch at: >

http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html

> List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: > www.dualsportnews.com > List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: > www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Member Map at: http://www.frappr.com/dsnklr650 > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > DSN_KLR650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > > > > >

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[Jeff Saline]

Listers, In my earlier post about oil analysis I mentioned I'd send further news of my 195 degree stat performance in a later e-mail. Well, here it is. Not having the expertise of Bill Watson, nor his professional data collection tools and methods I submit this for your examination. The ambient air temp this morning was 38 degrees. I was taking a ride to warm my engine and oil in preparation for taking an oil sample for later analysis and had a goal to see how the 195 degree stat works while getting up to temp. Here's the best I can remember about the ride. 0 min Start the bike with full choke and immediately put it to 1/2 choke. 30sec Start riding slowly down the driveway. Stop. Turn right, turn choke off. Now riding @ 4K rpm @ 50 mph indicated. 1 min Temp is steadily rising. Remember ambient temp is 38 degrees. 2 min Temp indicates 200 and drops to 180. It takes a gulp of cold coolant. 4 min Stabilizes at 195-200 needle moving gently showing stat operation. Coolant in radiator cool and still cooling the engine too quickly. 10 min Pull into a small but mostly clear parking lot. Maybe 120 x 60 feet. Temp at 195. Do figure 8s at 1,200 rpm. I have gearing at 16/43. This is only about 0.3% lower than stock. 12 min Temp to 210 and slowly rising. I think this is from no cooling air over the radiator at slow speeds. I turn on the fan. 13 min Temp just begins to drop from 210. Fan still on. Still doing figure 8s. I'm getting good at reading the clock, temp gauge, tach and missing the ice. I wonder if somebody's getting ready to call the sheriff on me. 14 min Temp at 195 and using stat for temp regulation. Stop doing figure 8s. Turn off fan. Return to road @ 3.2K rpms @ 50 mph indicated. Temp remains steady at 200 indicated. Coolant in radiator hot. 19 min Temp remains at 200 indicated and needle remains steady. 22 min Arrive at my shop. Temp is 200 indicated. Idle engine for 30 seconds. Temp steady. 22 1/2 min Turn off engine. 24 1/2 min Temp rises to 220. 26 1/2 min Engine is off. Temp has dropped to 210. END OF TEST. Further examination of the new stat housing indicates coolant leaking from the housing bleeder bolt. No drops of coolant just a path showing it's been there. I'll try to tighten the bleeder bolt another 1/4 turn. I only tightened it about 1/8th of a turn after my first test. I have a neoprene washer under the bolt head and have plenty of room for additional tightening. I think the temps and operation indicate Bill's calculations and advice were right on the money. I'm sure he'll either confirm, or correct me as appropriate. The temperature quickly reached 195 degrees and then gently fluctuated until the coolant in the radiator had a chance to get warm. Then the needle remained steady while on the road. Under the parking lot/slow conditions the lack of air flow over the radiator allowed the temperature to rise steadily. A minute after the fan was engaged the temperature began to drop until the stat again began to regulate the temperature. About 5-6 minutes after the engine was shut off the oil and engine temp were within 4 degrees. I suppose the by pass orifice could be just a little large as the temps remain higher than the 195 of the stat. Or the orifices are correct and the gauge face is off about 1/32" showing 200 when it's really 195. Without a thermocouple for accurate measurement I'll never know. It would be interesting to observe performance of a stock KLR in similar conditions. I don't think it would get to operational temp in 2 minutes or stay there. My rides a few months ago in 22 degree temps showed engine temps of only 170-180 degrees. I think this new stat has fixed the cool coolant in cool temps issue. Best, Jeff