Wilsons Sandbox

Sorry this is so long Background: Earlier this year, having not ridden the KLR at all thru winter (though I turned it over every 2 weeks) I went on a 200 mile ride upto Mt St Helens. It was running fine until my friend switched onto it. Ran fine for him but when I tried to start it after he got off it was hard to start and required a lot of gas whilst cranking. I put in Techron but it got worse until a week later it would not start at all. In testing I hooked up my Motion Pro external fuel cannister (gravity feed only, vaccum line to carb left open) and fuel started leaking into the airbox. Still wouldn't start. Advice from the group was to tear down carb, some said I could just remove choke, rotate carb and access needle. Others recommended a full dissasembly. Some recommended a fuel filter but I noted in the FAQ that it says to avoid one. I took the carb off ages ago then procrastination stuck. Yesterday I took it apart. I went with fully dissasembling it. Cleaned it totally inside and out. Put it backtogether. No change. Would not start at all, made one tiny blip of "catching" but that was it in many many tries. When I initially dissasembled the carb: Found that the float level was about 13, adjusted to 17 by bending tab. The small jet (with mulitple holes, pilot?) was dirty. Cleaned it with small wire and carb cleaner. Adjusted the jets, from reading the manual, believe the one that is flush with the body (main) should be all the way in and the one that is recessed into the carb (pilot) I backed off two turns. Took pics before I removed but they were not the ones I needed when I rehooked it together and manual is useless. I believe fuel line connects to hose on left side of carb, tank vacuum to connector on top and vent line to the white plastic connector on the left side of the carb. Is this correct? I drained the KLR gas tank. There is a coating of brown ?surface rust? inside but no flaky pieces but the inside isn't silver/steel colored, it is slightly brown. Anyways, after cranking I had fuel in the carb, draining it, it seemed clear. Questions: 1) Did I do anything wrong is reassembly? Carb? Hoses? 2) If I hook up an external test tank, do I need to crimp/block the unused vaccum line off the carb? Previous time I tried it, fuel came out of the airbox. 3) Should I get a fuel filter. As I said, I didn't due to the advice in the FAQ. If I should, can people recommend particular types (pic/URL would be helpful). 4) Instead of a filter, can I clean the tank? I'm hesitant to use the Kreem stuff which lines the inside as I've heard bad stories of it coming off, but perhaps since the rust is only surface coloring, there is an alternative. 5) Is there any magic to reconnecting the choke cable to the carb body. I just put it in and screwed it closed. Couldn't get any wrench in there (is there a trick other than to connect it before reattaching carb) so I just went with hand tight. 6) If I remove carb again, is just rotating in place going to get me what I need vs complete removal. Getting the carb clear of the rubber boots on the airbox/engine is a PITA. Thanks Tony

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jones wrote:

> > Sorry this is so long > > > Background: Earlier this year, having not ridden the KLR at all

thru winter

> (though I turned it over every 2 weeks) I went on a 200 mile ride

upto Mt St

> Helens. It was running fine until my friend switched onto it. Ran

fine for

> him but when I tried to start it after he got off it was hard to

start and

> required a lot of gas whilst cranking. I put in Techron but it got

worse

> until a week later it would not start at all. > > In testing I hooked up my Motion Pro external fuel cannister

(gravity feed

> only, vaccum line to carb left open) and fuel started leaking into

the airbox.

> Still wouldn't start. > > Advice from the group was to tear down carb, some said I could

just remove

> choke, rotate carb and access needle. Others recommended a full

dissasembly.

> Some recommended a fuel filter but I noted in the FAQ that it says

to avoid

> one. > > I took the carb off ages ago then procrastination stuck. Yesterday

I took it

> apart. I went with fully dissasembling it. Cleaned it totally

inside and out.

> Put it backtogether. No change. Would not start at all, made one

tiny blip

> of "catching" but that was it in many many tries. > > When I initially dissasembled the carb: > Found that the float level was about 13, adjusted to 17 by

bending tab.

> > The small jet (with mulitple holes, pilot?) was dirty.

Cleaned it with

> small wire and carb cleaner. > > Adjusted the jets, from reading the manual, believe the one

that is

> flush with the body (main) should be all the way in and the

one that is

> recessed into the carb (pilot) I backed off two turns. > > Took pics before I removed but they were not the ones I

needed when I

> rehooked it together and manual is useless. I believe

fuel line

> connects to hose on left side of carb, tank vacuum to

connector on top

> and vent line to the white plastic connector on the left side

of the

> carb. Is this correct? > > I drained the KLR gas tank. There is a coating of brown ?

surface rust?

> inside but no flaky pieces but the inside isn't silver/steel

colored,

> it is slightly brown. > > Anyways, after cranking I had fuel in the carb, draining it,

it seemed

> clear. > > > Questions: > 1) Did I do anything wrong is reassembly? Carb? Hoses?

I don't know, but it sounds like you did it right. Wait a minute......maybe not. Your hose description sounds weird. The vaccuum hose for your petcock is smaller, and should run from the small male connection on the carbs fuel/air mix exit port to the petcock. The fuel line runs from the left side BOTTOM of the carb near the float bowl, and to the petcock. The vent line hooks to the left side of the carb TOP connection and runs down to your drain bundle, with the other hoses.

> > 2) If I hook up an external test tank, do I need to

crimp/block the

> unused vaccum line off the carb? Previous time I tried

it, fuel

> came out of the airbox.

I would plug it up while doing this method. That would cause more air to flow into the motor and cause it to run lean. It still should start, especially with the choke on, but I would plug it anyway.

> > 3) Should I get a fuel filter. As I said, I didn't due to

the advice

> in the FAQ. If I should, can people recommend particular

types

> (pic/URL would be helpful).

I would. Stay away from the paper automotive filters and get a small motorcycle specific filter with the sintered brass center in the cone shaped clear plastic housing.

> > 4) Instead of a filter, can I clean the tank? I'm hesitant

to use the

> Kreem stuff which lines the inside as I've heard bad

stories of it

> coming off, but perhaps since the rust is only surface

coloring,

> there is an alternative.

A light brown coating is normal for persons parking their bikes for long periods of time. Don't worry about cleaning the tank and/or coating it. I don't think your anywhere near needing to do that. Just get the damn thing running again and RIDE it. And, next time you park the thing, drain the tank and carb completely of fuel. It's not that hard at all.

> > 5) Is there any magic to reconnecting the choke cable to the

carb

> body. I just put it in and screwed it closed. Couldn't

get any

> wrench in there (is there a trick other than to connect it

before

> reattaching carb) so I just went with hand tight.

Yes, there's magic to it. Get a tool that will work on it. I use a pair of needlenose pliers with a 45 degree bend on them, just to get it loose and retightened firmly. For the rest of the removal and replacing of it I use my hands. But DO NOT over tighten that plastic housing. It will break.

> > 6) If I remove carb again, is just rotating in place going to

get me

> what I need vs complete removal. Getting the carb clear

of the

> rubber boots on the airbox/engine is a PITA.

I know, removing it sucks. I can, and have rotated my carb to change out main jets, and reset needle positions dozens of times. (going to do it again as soon as I'm done posting this) It's easy, but make sure you remove the choke before rotating it excessivly or you can break the plastic nut. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Tony Jones wrote:

> I had the same problem two weeks ago. Mine turned out to be a bad

spark plug.

> Sorry this is so long > > > Background: Earlier this year, having not ridden the KLR at all

thru winter

> (though I turned it over every 2 weeks) I went on a 200 mile ride

upto Mt St

> Helens. It was running fine until my friend switched onto it. Ran

fine for

> him but when I tried to start it after he got off it was hard to

start and

> required a lot of gas whilst cranking. I put in Techron but it got

worse

> until a week later it would not start at all. > > In testing I hooked up my Motion Pro external fuel cannister

(gravity feed

> only, vaccum line to carb left open) and fuel started leaking into

the airbox.

> Still wouldn't start. > > Advice from the group was to tear down carb, some said I could just

remove

> choke, rotate carb and access needle. Others recommended a full

dissasembly.

> Some recommended a fuel filter but I noted in the FAQ that it says

to avoid

> one. > > I took the carb off ages ago then procrastination stuck. Yesterday

I took it

> apart. I went with fully dissasembling it. Cleaned it totally

inside and out.

> Put it backtogether. No change. Would not start at all, made one

tiny blip

> of "catching" but that was it in many many tries. > > When I initially dissasembled the carb: > Found that the float level was about 13, adjusted to 17 by bending tab. > > The small jet (with mulitple holes, pilot?) was dirty. Cleaned it with > small wire and carb cleaner. > > Adjusted the jets, from reading the manual, believe the one that is > flush with the body (main) should be all the way in and the one that is > recessed into the carb (pilot) I backed off two turns. > > Took pics before I removed but they were not the ones I needed when I > rehooked it together and manual is useless. I believe fuel line > connects to hose on left side of carb, tank vacuum to connector on top > and vent line to the white plastic connector on the left side of the > carb. Is this correct? > > I drained the KLR gas tank. There is a coating of brown ?surface rust? > inside but no flaky pieces but the inside isn't silver/steel colored, > it is slightly brown. > > Anyways, after cranking I had fuel in the carb, draining it, it seemed > clear. > > > Questions: > 1) Did I do anything wrong is reassembly? Carb? Hoses? > > 2) If I hook up an external test tank, do I need to crimp/block the > unused vaccum line off the carb? Previous time I tried it, fuel > came out of the airbox. > > 3) Should I get a fuel filter. As I said, I didn't due to the advice > in the FAQ. If I should, can people recommend particular types > (pic/URL would be helpful). > > 4) Instead of a filter, can I clean the tank? I'm hesitant to use the > Kreem stuff which lines the inside as I've heard bad stories of it > coming off, but perhaps since the rust is only surface coloring, > there is an alternative. > > 5) Is there any magic to reconnecting the choke cable to the carb > body. I just put it in and screwed it closed. Couldn't get any > wrench in there (is there a trick other than to connect it before > reattaching carb) so I just went with hand tight. > > 6) If I remove carb again, is just rotating in place going to get me > what I need vs complete removal. Getting the carb clear of the > rubber boots on the airbox/engine is a PITA. > > > Thanks > > Tony

At idle & low throttle the air/fuel mixture is controlled by the idle mixture screw. You don't say what had been tried or modified on the bike but assuming it is in stock condition, I would start by setting the idle mixture screw 2.25 turns out from gently closed. From the factory, KLR650 are set very lean for emissions. Adjust the idle & ride it for a while to see what has changed.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, ktamcm@a... wrote: > On behalf of a fellow rider, a 2005 w/5000 miles Any Ideas? > > "Also, that sputtering thing is getting worse on my KLR. Wants to die > out at idle, and it spits and sputters like it is out of gas under load > (mostly when cold however which makes me wonder). " > "On the cut out issue. What is really odd is that it tends to do it > only when (and let me word this carefully), not hot . So, when it is cold > or just at normal temperature, it will cut out under load, and will refuse to > idle reliably. When it is HOT, and I mean HOT as in fan running, it runs > fine. On the choke issue, when it starts to die, I can choke it and it > keeps it from stalling." > > > Kurt Thomas > Va Beach, VA > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

>Have owned my KLR 650 for about 9 months >now and am considering lower >my bike's seat by 1 1/2" inches by installing a >shock lowering link kit.

We installed 2" lowering links on my A18 just after it was picked up. Everyone who has ridden it likes it better than the stock height for pavement and gravel roads. Having no MX background it is only recently that my riding has become aggressive enough to bottom the rear on really rough stuff but that may be a concern depending on your weight and conditions under which you ride. I am 165# and the bottoming out amounted to twice on the last trip. The road was really bad with big cross ditches and random wash outs, plus big pot holes. At 40 - 50 mph it wasn't possible to avoid two bottom outs but a better or more prudent rider would have. My advice is to try the lowering links. The cost is modest and you can always switch back if you need to. Switching is under 1/2 hour plus the shock linkage needs repacking anyway so you're going in there once anyway and likely should repack yearly..... FWIW, Norm