: nklr stupid torque wrench

[dartmoor5900]

Any one repalced the head races ? Mine need doing as they have become notchey and are there any special tools required to do this job. Also do you know the torque setting for the top yolk nut ?

[Walter Mitty]

You can knock the races out with a punch. You can make a "tool" to replace the races with some allthread, a couple of washers and a couple of nuts. Big nut under the bars is 29 ft/lbs. dartmoor5900 wrote:Any one repalced the head races ? Mine need doing as they have become notchey and are there any special tools required to do this job. Also do you know the torque setting for the top yolk nut ? Archive Quicksearch at: http://www.angelfire.com/ut/moab/klr650_data_search.html List sponsored by Dual Sport News at: www.dualsportnews.com List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Yahoo! Groups Links __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Tengai Mark Van Horn]

At 8:16 PM +0000 9/15/05, dartmoor5900 wrote:

>Any one repalced the head races ? Mine need doing as they have become >notchey...

I had notchy steering but didn't have time to get the parts and install them before I took the bike on a trip, so I dressed 'em up (actually just the lower one was bad) with the coarse and then fine sanding drum on my Dremel tool. It worked great; no problems after almost 4,000 miles so far. Mark

[April Neave & Norm Keller]

An accurate torque wrench is going to be far more accurate than doing it by "feel". We have taken a lot of cash off people who were convinced that they could do it by "feel" accurately because they had been doing so for many years as professionals. Not so! A more accurate method than use of a torque wrench is the "torque turn" used on heavy equipment (and spark plugs) for more than 50 years to my direct knowledge. This system is also called "Torque to Yield" in the automotive trade. The problem is to obtain preload tightening and number of degrees required for fasteners used in our applications. My bet is that you either had an inaccurate torque wrench (it happens) or you missed the click. Some of the old Proto wrenches would refuse to click unless some bending effort was applied to the handle. How old is the Proto? If not ancient I suggest that you consider sending it in for calibration. Mac Tools torque wrench depots in Canada also do other makes but I don't know about Snap-on. You would have to ask. The repair depot I deal with tells me that there are only 3 or 4 torque wrench makers (excluding the off shore junk which appear to be copies of the old Proto style). Snap-on, Mac, SK, etc. do not make their own torque wrench mechanisms so I am told. The middle quality wrenches appear to be off the same line excepting for the ratchet head to this seems to be correct. The Snap-on wrenches which have the small knob on the side and tiny dial look to be the same as those sold by Precision so that may be Snap-on's source. All the above said, the guts of many makes of wrench are apparently the same so the repair depots can often do many makes. Just my $0.02, Norm