Wilsons Sandbox

No, that doesn't make any sense. If the battery and starter ARE working fine, then the motor IS turning over. You said it's not. Is the motor turning over quickly when you hit the start button or not? You said the bike sat for 3 weeks. Do you make your KLR sit all alone by itself, neglecting to ride her for long periods like this all the time? And how long has it been since you put fresh gas in her. Gas starts to go bad right away. It can quickly clog up your carb jets if your not putting fresh gas in every month, or not parking it for a long time without some sort of fuel conditioner or stabilizer. I doubt very much if it is the plug. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Jake Szufnarowski wrote: > Hey All, > > I went out to my bike Tuesday evening to take it out for the 1st time in > 3 weeks. I opened up the choke, hit the starter, and it wouldn't turn > over. So I gave it some time and tried it again this morning and got > the same problem. The starter and bettery are working fine, but it just > won't turn over. I'm somewhat of a novice with motorcycle, so any help > on what to check would be greatly appreciated. My hunch tells me the > spark plus. Does that make any sense? > --Jake Szufnarowski

I second Conall's comments. Third party extended warranties are full of exclusions, limitations, maximum payments (i.e. national average hourly rate that all dealers are over) , approval needed for the exact repair before starting, limited if any reimbursement for diagnostics, hidden weasel clauses, ambiguous and misleading language, no coverage for repairs due to for fasteners, bolts etc, no coverage if a covered part may have failed in their opinion due to a non- covered part, may not cover gaskets or damage due to overheating. I could go on but you get the idea. They may cover the part of all of the repair, but you may have to pay the repair shop directly and get reimbursed from the third party warranty because the stealer-ships and reputable shops have been burned by them repeatedly. (The stealer-ships especially know a dishonest company when they see one - having perfected the art.) Everything will look great on their website or other promotional material - but the contract will be a different matter. If you have a Toyota the percentages are highly in you favor that you do not need an extended contract unless you abuse the vehicle. But, you are going to pay a higher cost up front for the vehicles reputation for reliability. I you get a warranty -get the version that covers the most times with the least restrictions or don't bother. I purchases an extended warranty on a corolla because I intend to occasionally tow the KLR with it. It's well within the ridiculous high 1500 LBS tow weight limit for the Corolla, but I would consider it abuse to tow the KLR at say 60 MPR for hours on end with the Corolla - but I'm gonna do it because it's covered and a hell of a lot cheaper than buying, driving, insuring, maintaining a real tow vehicle. Especially when I primarily ride the KLR for at least 7 months out of the year. I'm also marginally towing a small and light travel trailer with the wife's minivan covered by extended warranty for the same reasons. I'm probably the 5% or so that have a good chance of coming out ahead with an extended warranty by leveraging all the vehicles abilities, but I will have to deal with a higher chance of a breakdown during a trip. If I towed regularly I would have a vehicle that was engineered for towing with a tow rating that was at least twice that of the actual full weight of what I was towing. If you have an American vehicle (wait the corolla was made in America but you know what I'm getting at) that was designed to tow you will probably not have major repair bills that will offset the high price of the manufacture extended service contract - but engines and transmissions are expensive and piece of mind may be important. You will most likely have a number of trips the dealer for more minor repairs with any vehicle. Realistically the best way to go cost wise if you are not willing to by a used vehicle directly form the prior owner is to buy a used tow configured vehicle, especially if it was never used for towing, with a 100,000 used vehicle extended warranty for the dealer if you are concerned about the potential future repair costs. If you are not that concerned about cost you can lease the vehicle for a few years and it will be someone else's problem by the time it's out of warranty. Good luck - Rob

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Conall" wrote: > Have you compared prices? Most of the time the extended warranty from > your Toyota dealer will be cheaper. Haven't heard of JM & A before, > although I've only been working for Toyota for 4 months. From a Toyota > service advisors viewpoint a lot of these third party extended > warranty providers are a pain to work with. YMMV. Read the fine print. > > Conall > > --- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "carlsonjustin" > wrote: > > Hello all, > > > > Sorry for the off-topic question but I got such a great response with > > the pick-up vs. subaru with a trailer I thought I might try this one > > here as well. > > > > I justclosed a deal on a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 today. > > > > I have a question regarding extended service plans. There are two plans > > available in my area, Toyota and JM&A. Has anyone had experience with > > these plans and the customer service records of them? I'd appreciate > > your insights, for the power train and Gold packages. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Justin