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breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 12:42 pm
by AJN
Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while and recently bought an new A18
I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and was wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do and avoid doing. thanks, this is a great group I've already learned so much
Ajn
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 2:06 pm
by Joseph Jones
Welcome to the list and the group of KLR owners. I broke my A18 in
according to the manual. If I got a new bike I would change the oil
after 100 miles, and again at 200-500 miles. Look at the filter when
you change it and if there is metal flakes on the filter I would
change it again in a hundred miles or so.Oil and filters are cheep
enough to wast some to keep out the metal pieces.
Filters at
www.bikebandit.com for $1.74 plus $6.00 shipping so get a
dozen or so and it is still $6.00 shipping.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "AJN" wrote:
> Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while
and recently bought an new A18
> I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and
was wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do
and avoid doing. thanks, this is a great group I've already learned
so much
>
> Ajn
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 3:31 pm
by bjoggi308
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Jones"
wrote:
>
>
> Welcome to the list and the group of KLR owners. I broke my A18 in
> according to the manual. If I got a new bike I would change the
oil
> after 100 miles, and again at 200-500 miles. Look at the filter
when
> you change it and if there is metal flakes on the filter I would
> change it again in a hundred miles or so.Oil and filters are cheep
> enough to wast some to keep out the metal pieces.
Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not
likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to
the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen.
It's not that hard to take the right side cover off and clean out
the screen, but make sure you have all the parts (gasket/o-
ring/gasket-sealer/etc..) before you start the job. There are
instructions available on the net beyond the KLR factory repair
manuals.
I just did this myself, and was shocked by the stuff I found, and by
how clogged up the screen was. In the end I felt it was well worth
the effort.
breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 5:26 pm
by Dirk Beer
On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:31:13 -0000, bjoggi308 wrote:
> Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not
> likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to
> the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen.
I have to disagree with you on this part based on my experience. My
A18 had lots of visible metal flakes in the filter at 500 miles and at
2000 miles.
Followed factory break-in instructions. My bike burns no measureable
amount of oil & runs great. I will be doing the oil screen cleaning
sometime, though...
Dirk
breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 5:49 pm
by Joseph Jones
I had the dealer change mine at 660 miles (because of warranty, and
my ingnorance) And I changed it at 2000 miles and it had small flakes
of metal in the filter, and again at 3500 and it had small flakes in
it, but at 5000 the filter was clean. I did the oil screen at 11,000
and got all the gasket sealant out.
The oil screen will stop a lot of the larger stuff but the filter
gets the fine stuff. And the fine stuff is what is floating around in
the motor with the oil.
--- In
DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Dirk Beer wrote:
> On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:31:13 -0000, bjoggi308
wrote:
> > Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not
> > likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to
> > the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen.
> I have to disagree with you on this part based on my experience. My
> A18 had lots of visible metal flakes in the filter at 500 miles and
at
> 2000 miles.
>
> Followed factory break-in instructions. My bike burns no measureable
> amount of oil & runs great. I will be doing the oil screen cleaning
> sometime, though...
>
> Dirk
breakin period for new bike
Posted: Wed Mar 02, 2005 11:27 pm
by kdxkawboy@aol.com
In a message dated 3/2/2005 11:28:55 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rahlex@... writes:
Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while and
recently bought an new A18
I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and was
wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do and avoid doing.
thanks, this is a great group I've already learned so much
Factory breakin procedure works well. Stay away from synthetic oils for the
first 3000 or 6000 miles. If there is anything special you might do, it would
be to slowly break the engine into running at normal engine temps during the
first couple of rides. This amounts to bringing the engine up to temp and
only riding for about 10-15 minutes before stopping and letting the engine cool
to touch. Next time ride for about 20 minutes, then 30 and then 45 minutes
after which you're good for extended rides.
The thinking behind this is that a new engine goes through most its break-in
wear during its thermal expansion in these initial heat cycles. So the idea
is to purposely bring it through this cycle several times to improve the
seating.
Pat
G'ville, NV
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
fuel tank/carb vent lines
Posted: Thu Mar 03, 2005 1:01 pm
by Jeff Jones
Howdy listers,
I'm having a problem getting all the vent lines for the carb and fuel
tank routed. I have a 2001
KLR650, California version. I've got the fuel and vacuum lines id'ed to
the petcock. However,
I'm not sure about the which fitting the line for the T-mod attaches to
- is it the white plastic
nipple by the choke cable? Also, what do the two lines from the rear of
the fuel tank attach to -
are they both just vented to the atmosphere or does either one attach to
something? I have both
Kawasaki manuals and the Clymer manual, and can't find a good
picture/explanation for these
in either of the manuals.
Thanks in advance,
Jeff Jones