fuel tank/carb vent lines

[AJN]

Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while and recently bought an new A18 I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and was wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do and avoid doing. thanks, this is a great group I've already learned so much Ajn [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Joseph Jones]

Welcome to the list and the group of KLR owners. I broke my A18 in according to the manual. If I got a new bike I would change the oil after 100 miles, and again at 200-500 miles. Look at the filter when you change it and if there is metal flakes on the filter I would change it again in a hundred miles or so.Oil and filters are cheep enough to wast some to keep out the metal pieces. Filters at www.bikebandit.com for $1.74 plus $6.00 shipping so get a dozen or so and it is still $6.00 shipping.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "AJN" wrote: > Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while and recently bought an new A18 > I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and was wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do and avoid doing. thanks, this is a great group I've already learned so much > > Ajn > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[bjoggi308]

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, "Joseph Jones" wrote:

> > > Welcome to the list and the group of KLR owners. I broke my A18 in > according to the manual. If I got a new bike I would change the

oil

> after 100 miles, and again at 200-500 miles. Look at the filter

when

> you change it and if there is metal flakes on the filter I would > change it again in a hundred miles or so.Oil and filters are cheep > enough to wast some to keep out the metal pieces.

Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen. It's not that hard to take the right side cover off and clean out the screen, but make sure you have all the parts (gasket/o- ring/gasket-sealer/etc..) before you start the job. There are instructions available on the net beyond the KLR factory repair manuals. I just did this myself, and was shocked by the stuff I found, and by how clogged up the screen was. In the end I felt it was well worth the effort.

[Dirk Beer]

On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:31:13 -0000, bjoggi308 wrote:

> Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not > likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to > the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen.

I have to disagree with you on this part based on my experience. My A18 had lots of visible metal flakes in the filter at 500 miles and at 2000 miles. Followed factory break-in instructions. My bike burns no measureable amount of oil & runs great. I will be doing the oil screen cleaning sometime, though... Dirk

[Joseph Jones]

I had the dealer change mine at 660 miles (because of warranty, and my ingnorance) And I changed it at 2000 miles and it had small flakes of metal in the filter, and again at 3500 and it had small flakes in it, but at 5000 the filter was clean. I did the oil screen at 11,000 and got all the gasket sealant out. The oil screen will stop a lot of the larger stuff but the filter gets the fine stuff. And the fine stuff is what is floating around in the motor with the oil.

--- In DSN_KLR650@yahoogroups.com, Dirk Beer wrote: > On Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:31:13 -0000, bjoggi308 wrote: > > Good advice on the break-in procedure. However, KLR owners are not > > likely to see metal flakes on the filter as most stuff visible to > > the naked eye is caught by the oil-pump-screen. > I have to disagree with you on this part based on my experience. My > A18 had lots of visible metal flakes in the filter at 500 miles and at > 2000 miles. > > Followed factory break-in instructions. My bike burns no measureable > amount of oil & runs great. I will be doing the oil screen cleaning > sometime, though... > > Dirk

[kdxkawboy@aol.com]

In a message dated 3/2/2005 11:28:55 AM Pacific Standard Time, rahlex@... writes: Hi All. this is my first post. I've been evesdropping for a while and recently bought an new A18 I'm waiting for the snow to clear a little before picking it up and was wondering what the proper breakin period is and what should I do and avoid doing. thanks, this is a great group I've already learned so much Factory breakin procedure works well. Stay away from synthetic oils for the first 3000 or 6000 miles. If there is anything special you might do, it would be to slowly break the engine into running at normal engine temps during the first couple of rides. This amounts to bringing the engine up to temp and only riding for about 10-15 minutes before stopping and letting the engine cool to touch. Next time ride for about 20 minutes, then 30 and then 45 minutes after which you're good for extended rides. The thinking behind this is that a new engine goes through most its break-in wear during its thermal expansion in these initial heat cycles. So the idea is to purposely bring it through this cycle several times to improve the seating. Pat G'ville, NV [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Jeff Jones]

Howdy listers, I'm having a problem getting all the vent lines for the carb and fuel tank routed. I have a 2001 KLR650, California version. I've got the fuel and vacuum lines id'ed to the petcock. However, I'm not sure about the which fitting the line for the T-mod attaches to - is it the white plastic nipple by the choke cable? Also, what do the two lines from the rear of the fuel tank attach to - are they both just vented to the atmosphere or does either one attach to something? I have both Kawasaki manuals and the Clymer manual, and can't find a good picture/explanation for these in either of the manuals. Thanks in advance, Jeff Jones