Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 2:47 pm**

Don't switch back and forth between synthetic and dinosaur juice. Synthetic works best because of like molecules... Pick one or the other so the remnants of dinosaur juice don't contaminate your synthetic. Although, there are synthetic/dinosaur blends but why comprimise? Jeffrey NakedRed04

>I hope to pick up an A13 in early March and have been busy learning >all I can. I finally had a chance to go through the Clymer's manual >and noticed that they recommended a 6,000 mile oil change interval, >but a 3,000 mile oil filter change interval. Did I read that right? > >The FAQ suggests that most folks change their oil every 1-2K miles;

I

>assume they do a filter change at that time, too?

I change the oil (cheap Texaco Havoline 10W40) every 1,000 and the filter every 2,000, except in winter when I use 5W40 synthetic. Then I change the oil and filter together at 2,000. In a pinch, I have gone 5,000 miles on a trip without changing my Chevron Delvac and filter. The bike didn't seam to mind, but I did.

>Has anyone done a used oil analysis with their bike?

Analysis schmanalysis. Mark

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 3:47 pm**

In use the synthetic 5W40 in the winter 'cuz no dino comes in that viscosity. I don't care about the "like molecules" blah of the synthetic. I'm sure the 5% (or whatever) residual dino doesn't hinder it. I run it for 2,000 'cuz it's twice the cost of dino and it's still a relatively short change interval. Mark At 8:46 PM +0000 2/27/05, nakedwaterskier wrote:

>Don't switch back and forth between synthetic and dinosaur juice. >Synthetic works best because of like molecules... > >Pick one or the other so the remnants of dinosaur juice don't >contaminate your synthetic. > >Although, there are synthetic/dinosaur blends but why comprimise? > >Jeffrey NakedRed04 > > >>I hope to pick up an A13 in early March and have been busy learning >>all I can. I finally had a chance to go through the Clymer's manual >>and noticed that they recommended a 6,000 mile oil change interval, >>but a 3,000 mile oil filter change interval. Did I read that right? >> >>The FAQ suggests that most folks change their oil every 1-2K miles; >I >>assume they do a filter change at that time, too? > >I change the oil (cheap Texaco Havoline 10W40) every 1,000 and the >filter every 2,000, except in winter when I use 5W40 synthetic. Then >I change the oil and filter together at 2,000. In a pinch, I have >gone 5,000 miles on a trip without changing my Chevron Delvac and >filter. The bike didn't seam to mind, but I did. > >>Has anyone done a used oil analysis with their bike? > >Analysis schmanalysis. > >Mark

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 3:58 pm**

A Slippery Subject This is an oil cooler located in the nose of a Cobra replicar. The cooler is positioned directly in the path of fresh, cool air in an attempt to keep oil temperatures in line when running the car on a road course. The trick is to create an oil that requires less power to pump through the engine yet still delivers sufficient protection. Oil pressure is an indication of resistance to flow in the engine, so it makes sense that reducing the oil pressure (while maintaining sufficient flow to protect the internal components) will result in more power. Drag racers have been doing this for years with excellent results. Farner showed us some Quaker State research that tested several different weights of synthetics to dig up some horsepower from this thin-oil theory. Quaker State actually tested five different multi- grade synthetics on a 300hp small-block Chevy, including a range of oils between 10W60 and an incredibly thin 0W10. While you might think that the thinnest oil would have the best shot at making the most power, the 0W20 turned out to be the best in terms of both peak power and best overall power. We're talking about minor power differences of around 8 hp between the 10W60 oil and the 0W20, which is still a great change based on how easy it was to make this power.

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 4:03 pm**

Lets put it straight. If the person had already used synthetic and the dealer put in conventional oil, that already could mess it up. The bearings would have already been saturated with synthetic and the mix of conventional oil will either resist mixing or break down (synthetic breaks down conventional in this theory) depending on what theory you prefer. Either way, the result is the same and the damage could or could not have been done. The damage would be overstressed bearings since they don't get the proper lubercation. I don't see it as a huge deal as long as you stick with the product you want to use. Don't change back and forth!! The bearings will eventually be saturated in the oil you use, even if it takes 3k more miles and another oil change. On the other hand, if the car's been 100% conventional, then the risks are leakage. Synthetic not only is a lot thinner (molecule wise) than conventional oil, it also is great at breaking down sludge in your engine. However... if damage has been done to oil rings.. then synthetic could slip past and start leaking. On an even worse case, that sludge sometimes keeps everything from leaking in the engine. Imagine filling a bike tire up with fixaflat, and poking tiny holes everywhere with a needle. Sure, it won't leak, and if it does, you probably won't notice, but then imagine adding something into the tire that cleans up that gunk fixaflat has in it... ya, oh crap is right. Synthetic oil acts as a decent gunk remover.

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 4:07 pm**

Are you serious? Just wondering. --John Kokola

> -----Original Message----- > From: nakedwaterskier [mailto:nakedwaterskier@...] > > Lets put it straight.

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 4:41 pm**

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005, nakedwaterskier wrote:

> Synthetic oil acts as a decent gunk remover.

I thought it was the additive package in the oil that was the gunk remover. If true then the same additives could be added to a dino oil. -- Doug Herr doug@...

Posted: **Sun Feb 27, 2005 8:58 pm**

Behind every can of oil is a snake and not far behind that is the salesman. I have yet to read of any oil failures anywhere unless due to completely running out. There is no question that oils degrade over time which is why you change them periodically. Yet many people fixate on extreme hypothetical differences between various engine oils but when it comes to their own diet, many choose to ignore well established and easily avoidable foods. Ignoring one will certainly decrease your lifespan, practicing the other has an almost negligle effect. -svt- __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Read only the mail you want - Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail

Posted: **Mon Feb 28, 2005 3:28 pm**

On Sun, 27 Feb 2005, nakedwaterskier wrote:

>> Has anyone done a used oil analysis with their bike? > Analysis schmanalysis.

I have, and the numbers were awful. Don't run an extended drain interval. RM

Posted: **Mon Feb 28, 2005 3:36 pm**

i didn't even write about oil analysis...you are quoting the wrong person Jeffrey nakedred04

Posted: **Mon Feb 28, 2005 9:54 pm**

I am a starving student pilot looking for a klr650 in or near florida. Pretty good at mechanics so the cheaper the better you can email direct tpknueven@... Timmy __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - 250MB free storage. Do more. Manage less. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250

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