Wilsons Sandbox

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klr_pilot" wrote:

> > Hi all, > > Need your help on sugestion to add a bit more power/speed on my '04 > KLR. I don't need a speed demon (I know I'm not going to get it out > of this bike) > > But what can I do readyly to improve performance???? (and how??) > > Right now the bike is bone stock... > > I thank everyone in advance for your coments and sugestions. > > klr_pilot

The list wisdom is often in favor of handling improvements rather than the quest for more power. The KLR motor is more akin to a tactor engine, than a race engine. Issues with flow in the head and compression ratio are difficult and expensive to overcome, and though many have tried, but few have achieved spectacular results. 1. Handling upgrades * Upgrade to stainless steel front brake line (Galfer, etc) * Upgrade to agressive front pads (Galfer green) * Upgrade to larger rotor (Braking 320mm) * Upgrade to Progressive fork springs * Replace fishoil with real fork oil of appropriate weight * Check/set steering head tension * Check/set front axle play * Check/retorque pinch bolts on triple tree * Consider fork brace if forks exhibit excessive flex/play * Upgrade rear shock to hi perf unit (Progressive, WP, etc) * Upgrade to sticky street rubber 2. Engine mods (impacts mpg and reliability) * Reduce exhaust restrictions & weight (Supertrapp, BigGun, etc) * Reduce intake restrictions ** Remove air screen ** Add airbox cutout * Rejet to achieve richer mixture * Change to KLX needle for better mixture modulation * Upgrade to flat slide carb * Upgrade to split fire plug * Upgrade to lowest possible wt JASO spec oil (5w30?) * Have custom head built for bike * Have custom cylinder built for bike * Have custom piston built for bike 3. Shed as much weight as possible (impacts other KLR duties) * Remove rear rack * Replace fairing/headlight/instruments with ultralight street-fighter components * Remove rear footpegs and brackets * Replace turn signals with tiny sport bike units * Replace O-ring chain w/ lightweight racing chain * Never fill tank more than 1/2 * Remove overflow bottle * Replace footpegs w/ aluminum sportbike units * Remove oem skidplate Most of these mods really corrupt the original mission of the KLRs go-anywhere approach. But it would be somewhat faster, at least in terms of acceleration. Narrower handlebars and remove windshield may help reduce wind drag and achieve better top speed. Many have tried but few have succeeded. So you are warned. But don't let that stop you, perhaps your solution will work where others have failed. MarkB (IMHO, a few basic mods can improve ridability, airbox mods, KLX needle, open the pilot screw to 2-2.5 turns, and Supertrapp. Not huge gains, and very little on top end, but better response. MPG does suffer, but at 54mpg to start with, there's room to spare a few mpgs. Mine remains un-dynoed, however.)

Mark, Thanks for the good list of stuff. What do you mean by setting the front axle play? I'm not familiar with this. Thanks, Matt

> > 1. Handling upgrades > * Upgrade to stainless steel front brake line (Galfer, etc) > * Upgrade to agressive front pads (Galfer green) > * Upgrade to larger rotor (Braking 320mm) > * Upgrade to Progressive fork springs > * Replace fishoil with real fork oil of appropriate weight > * Check/set steering head tension > * Check/set front axle play > * Check/retorque pinch bolts on triple tree > * Consider fork brace if forks exhibit excessive flex/play > * Upgrade rear shock to hi perf unit (Progressive, WP, etc) > * Upgrade to sticky street rubber >

Elden Carl has this process of setting the front axle play using shims. The premise is that the wheel assembly should be a near perfect fit between the two fork tubes, otherwise the fork sliders are under excess friction; due to being spread out too far, or pulled in too far, in order to accommodate the width of the wheel assembly. This tension, inward or outward, causes friction which reduces the up/down motion of the front wheel. This keeps the front end from following the terrain properly and makes the front wheel behave poorly, similar to having excess unsprung weight up front. Basic process I saw Elden demo the one time was as follows: Setting it involves putting the bike on a lift and raising it until the front tire is just barely on the ground. Then you remove the nut from the front axle and give the forks a little tap with a mallet. For proper fit, the forks should spread just enough to leave a tiny gap (like < 0.10 mm) between one side of the wheel assembly and the slider (fork lowers). Anything less, too tight, any gap larger, and you need to shim it up. Don't quote me on the actual gap, I'm doing this from my failing memory. Made a certain amount of sense at the time, but it never made the multisurfacemotorcycling.com web site. Maybe it's trade secret for real desert racers, dunno for sure. I prefer a forkbrace for bikes that see lotsa twisties as well as some gravel, but that's just me. Recent experience suggests that for purely dirt machines, the weight penalty of a fork brace works against you, esp. at speed, or in the soft stuff. MarkB

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mbarney" wrote: > > Mark, > > Thanks for the good list of stuff. What do you mean by setting the > front axle play? I'm not familiar with this. > > Thanks, > Matt > > > > > 1. Handling upgrades > > * Upgrade to stainless steel front brake line (Galfer, etc) > > * Upgrade to agressive front pads (Galfer green) > > * Upgrade to larger rotor (Braking 320mm) > > * Upgrade to Progressive fork springs > > * Replace fishoil with real fork oil of appropriate weight > > * Check/set steering head tension > > * Check/set front axle play > > * Check/retorque pinch bolts on triple tree > > * Consider fork brace if forks exhibit excessive flex/play > > * Upgrade rear shock to hi perf unit (Progressive, WP, etc) > > * Upgrade to sticky street rubber > >

EX500 twin maybe, it's water cooled, probably a good fit, and at least it has the K logo on it. Hey, it was good enough for the Weber kids! MarkB

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Rob MacMorran" wrote: > While you're at it just swap the whole motor. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall Marbach" > To: "KLR Group" DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2004 10:29 PM > Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] Dyno award for 40rwhp. > > > > > > > > Hi All > > > > Is there anybody out there that could tell me the > > procedure for swapping an xr650r head on my klr? That > > ought to get me at least 40 rhp. > > > > TIA > > > > Randy from Burbank > > > > --- Stuart Mumford wrote: > > > > > > > > So you're saying your KLR doesn't really have 40 hp? > > > > > > J'accuse!!!!! > > > > > > Cheers > > > CA Stu > > > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > > > > SNIP > > > > > >I am currently at 40, and stock bikes are 36. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > SNIP > > > > > > Mike Torst > > > > > > A16 > > > > > > aka lasvegasrider > > > > > >