On Thu, 4 Nov 2004, CA Stu wrote:
> First off, the big nut on top of the steering stem is not the
> adjustment nut.
> That nut sits below a claw washer, below the upper fork holder and
> needs a special tool to adjust it (or a punch and hammer, wielded very
> gingerly).
Actually, you can loosen the top nut, loosen the upper fork pinch bolts,
and slide the top of the yoke up enough to get at the adjustment nut with
a pair of channel locks. It doesn't take a special tool, just some
wiggling around.
> I recently did the same maintenance to mine, not because of weaving
> but because of clunking in the front end. My steering stem nut was
> finger tight (oops).
>
> Do you have the manual?
> I suggest getting one.
Unfortunately, the manual is not very helpful here. It just says "adjust
the bolt to the proper tightness". It doesn't say *HOW* tight. The usual
advice I see on the web is to tighten it until it drags a bit, then back
off until it moves freely again. Other people say it's okay to leave it
dragging just a small amount and will provide better stability on the
highway. I left it with just a bit of drag, and I guess it works, or maybe
not, I'm not sure.
> I would loosen and retorque the entire assembley, including the front
> axle.
I already did that on mine. I'm still getting a bit of wag.
> And if I'm reading your post correct, you're getting a kind of tail
> wag/head shake effect, right?
>
> It is easily fixable, don't stress.
>
> Thanks
> CA Stu
>
> PS I attach an earlier post to the list below:
Yes, that was for me. And my bike still has a little wag to it. I was
going to take it to the NoCal wrenchfest to see if anybody else had an
idea, unfortunately a torn-up knee interfered with that plan

. My front
wheel had a hitch so I basically rebuilt my front wheel to as perfect as
humanly possible (that bubba is STRAIGHT, I hadn't done a wheel in years,
but I may be older and I may be slower, but I ain't lost it entirely!), my
back wheel was already perfect (by "perfect" I mean that my gauge shows
I'm about 10 times more accurate than the manual spec), and while my back
wheel isn't perfectly balanced (I don't have a large enough selection of
stick-on weights) it's close (and the front wheel is pretty close to
perfect).
In six weeks or so when my knee is a bit better I may try doing more work,
the rear wheel alignment is one thing to check (is the rear wheel pointed
straight?), the next is going to be to change out the tires, one at a time
starting with the front, for more street-oriented tires (since dirt riding
season is pretty much over here on the California coast) and see if that
helps make it more stable at speed. Hopefully I'll find that it was a tire
that was the problem, at which point the issue then becomes one of getting
Kings Tire to provide me with a tire that doesn't make my bike wag :-}.
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2004 07:58:32 -0700 (PDT)
> From: "Eric L. Green"
> Subject: My KLR wags its head

>
> As I noted earlier, after putting the Kings KT-966 on my bike it has a
> tendency to wag its head at high speeds (starting at around 67-68
> indicated). I speculated that the taller height of the rear tire was
> making the fork rake steeper, and that maybe backing off the spring
> pretension would help. Nope. Even with a full load and 4 inches of
> sag, it
> still wants to wag.
>
> What does help is riding close to the tank on the narrow "blade" part of
> the seat and making sure my knees are firmly grasping the tank. This will
> make it stable at any speed with any load. But isn't particularly
> comfortable on those long superslab trips, where I'd love to move
> around a
> bit without having to keep a death grip on the tank. I went for a five
> hour ride today to find some rutted gravel roads that somebody had
> told me
> about to see how my new tires handled that kind of terrain (alas,
> somebody
> paved them over while we weren't looking, but at least it was acceptably
> curvy -- even if I was looking 1,000 feet straight down at some points
> and
> thus riding far too carefully at times to enjoy it!). Coming back on the
> superslab after 4 hours of hot slogging on tight mountain curvies in 90
> degree weather (thank gawd for mesh gear!) was somewhat miserable,
> because
> my tushie REALLY would have preferred being on the "fat" part of the seat
> after all that...
>
> The fork bolts are properly tensioned. The fork brace is properly
> tightened. The axle bolt is properly torqued. The fork pivot moves
> smoothly and appears properly adusted, with no detectable play of any
> sort. What's the next thing I should check? Hmm, maybe I should check to
> see whether my front wheel is straight?
>
> Oh - when I put the back wheel back on, I also checked to make sure that
> my pivots did not have any play in them. My swingarms have no play in them
> other than in the direction they're supposed to have play (heh!). My
> bearings were all good too (though I gave them a dollop of grease to keep
> them happy). Hmm, wonder about wheel balancing, could that make my bike
> wag at high speed?
>
> Just puzzled, I guess. Wheel balance and straightness seems all that's
> left to check.
>
> -E
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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