In Ga. it gets pretty damp. On my A14 the fasteners seem to be the
most susceptible item to rust. Those Phillips head screws will begin
rusting as soon as you tough them with a screwdriver. The exhaust
fasteners also rust quickly due to the heat. Over the years, I've
been scrounging the hardware store for stainless metric fasteners &
have upgraded virtually all the fasteners to stainless or at least
plated. I also detest Phillips head fasteners with the exception of
those requiring a #4 bit. I've got almost totally to allen head or
hex head fasteners.
The other KLR corrosion weaknesses are the wheel axles & suspension
pivots. I bought my A14 new & wish I had known about this issue at
first. Kawasaki doesn't grease these shafts & being out of sight
they tend to begin rusting immediately. Since Kawasaki is so damn
cheap with their grease, I suggest all KLR riders to personally
grease all pivot bearings, pivot shafts & wheel bearing ASAP. When I
did for the first time at about 6K miles the pivot shafts had started
corroding. This is so unnecessary; once I started lubing these
shafts no further damage has been noted & it's so easy. I either
grease it with moly grease if that's what I'm doing or if I'm
changing a tire, I hose the shafts with waxy rust preventative.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, bigfatgreenbike
wrote:
>
>
> lasvegasrider@c... wrote:
>
> >For the second time, My KLR is affected by moisture! You non-dry
riding
> >environs owners are laughing-
> >
> >SO, what solutions do you vets use for water crossings and humid
weather?
> >
> >
> At some point, you need to have pulled the rear suspension apart
and
> re-greased it with a good waterproof moly grease. I used some
AMsoil
> crap I had, which is "waterproof" and "synthetic" (woo hoo), but
two
> years later when I redid the rear suspension greasing, the amsoil
stuff
> was in excellent condition. And I really, really beat on it. Got
the
> bike stuck in mud over the axles, rode the bike all winter long on
the
> salted roads, stored it outside under a cover.....
>
> As far as the rest of the bike, it's all aluminum, or painted, or
it's
> tupperware plastic. Not much to rust, but WD40 always helps.
>
> Unless you mean "affected" like it doesn't run well in the wet. In
that
> case, do the T-mod to the carb bowl vent hose, then buy a tube of
> dielectric grease from Radio Shack or an auto supply store, open up
> EVERY connector in the ignition and charging circuits, and
liberally
> grease them. Also grease inside the spark plug boot.
>
> I've done this to my 650 and my 250, they're pretty waterproof.
>
> Devon