Wilsons Sandbox

Clean the cable ends? The starter on the KLR is very dependable. I think corrosion and such...Your A14 is still fresh - heck you have less than a third of A16 mileage. Don't forget to check the solenoid. Mike Torst A16 Las Vegas -----Original Message----- From: kevenker [mailto:kevenker@...] Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2004 4:08 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Slow starting bike I've got a strange thing going on. When I try to start the bike, it turns over slowly -- as if the battery were dying. Yet I have a new battery and when I plug it into the battery tender, it indicates that its nearly fully charged (switches to float mode in just a few minutes). Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've checked the wiring to the battery and its all tight. One of my friends suggested the starter motor might be going out. Before I go to that expense, I was just looking for advice with troubleshooting the issue. Keven A14 6700 miles

Have you done a resistance check of the wire between the battery and starter? There should be no resistance at all. If there is any, corrosion is probable at the terminals even if you can't see any. Could be a bad wire also. Either condition is easily checked and a fix there is a lot cheaper than a starter. Paul A16

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kevenker" wrote: > I've got a strange thing going on. When I try to start the bike, it > turns over slowly -- as if the battery were dying. Yet I have a new > battery and when I plug it into the battery tender, it indicates that > its nearly fully charged (switches to float mode in just a few > minutes). > > Once it starts, it runs just fine. I've checked the wiring to the > battery and its all tight. One of my friends suggested the starter > motor might be going out. Before I go to that expense, I was just > looking for advice with troubleshooting the issue. > > Keven > A14 6700 miles

>Have you done a resistance check of the wire between the battery and >starter? There should be no resistance at all. >

Some times a high resistance joint doesn't show up unless there is a fair amount of current flowing through it. Another way to check is to use a DC voltmeter and put one lead on the battery post, not the cable the post itself, and the other lead on the post of the starter. Pull the plug wire so the engine won't start and hit the starter, in a perfect world there should be no voltage showing when the starter is running. Of course nothing is perfect so you might see a little voltage. If you see alot of voltage then there is some high resistance some where and you need to find it. You can follow the same procedure but put the leads on either side of a suspected connection. Or you can just go ahead and clean and check everything. Don't forget to try the same thing on the ground side also. Be sure to observe polarity when hooking up the voltmeter if it is mechanical, don't need any bent meter needles. Many times on cars that won't start you can put one lead on the post and one lead on the cable terminal hooked to it. Hit the starter and you will find most of the battery voltage appearing across the connection. Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

Someone posted"

>Subject: >Have you done a resistance check of the wire between ?>the battery and >starter? There should be no resistance at all. If there is >any, >corrosion is probable at the terminals even if you can't >see any. >Could be a bad wire also. Either condition is easily >checked and a >fix there is a lot cheaper than a starter. >Paul A16

Good advice. I'd like to add a couple of points. Rather than trying to use resistance, I suggest using voltage drop. See the articles on Marl's site. A good rule of thumb is that any conductor (wire) or component other than the intended load (the starter in this case) should have no more than 0.2 volts drop across it when the circuit is in normal operation. IMO you will find that measuring resistance by means of an Ohmmeter will not work because of the very low values involved. Off to dinner, Norm

Bullshit on not posting to the list (excuse me admin) Don't quit, just find another subject - this PC thread has gone wrong for many, so let us move back onto the real deal - the satire of another another oil thread was lost in my reply, but I wrote it for people of my ilk to get everyone back onto the real issues - adventure rides on KLR's. SO how does riding to Copper Canyon in Mexico via western Texas or western Arizona hit ya, in Mid- October??? DO you riders want to go to Mexico and ride the CC for awhile, and hear from the LEADERS in adventure riding, as presented by Horizons Unlimited, or do you want to screw around with this summer distraction of PC bullshit (sorry admin). Enough!!!! Lets go to Mexico!!!!!! Mike Torst A16, scared and perdy Lost Wages, NV Again, sorry admin - tough love stuff run second time --------- -----Original Message----- From: klr6501995 [mailto:vansee@...] Sent: Friday, August 13, 2004 4:07 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] Re: This is what I get for being a nice guy! I get slandered BY ... Yep getting old and maybe I'll quit posting .... But discussion does often help one to think. There can't be more than one "truth" and each "truth" contradict the other... So changing opinions maybe not the goal... Just think. Precept upon precept. --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "mike torst" wrote:

> Man, this PC vs. non-PC stuff is riveting (yawn)- I bet if we took

a poll,

> NO ONE on this list has changed positions. > > Hey, how about another divisive oil thread regarding MA and non-MA

oils?

> ha-ha > > Mike Torst > A16 > Las Vegas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: denvowell@a... [mailto:denvowell@a...] > Sent: Thursday, August 12, 2004 5:32 PM > To: nakedwaterskier@y...; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] This is what I get for being a nice guy!

I get

> slandered BY ... > > > If us PC people are clueless why do you ask for our opinions?

Dennis A18 the

> Big Red 1

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