Wilsons Sandbox

dpbiker@... wrote:

>Leaves >Okay, my bike had the problem of not starting about a week ago since then I have by passed the kick stand thingy and I cleaned the clutch thingy contacts, but I didn't by pass it. > >When I get the dash lights to come on and I push the starter button, I only get a slight snapping around and all of the electric goes off. It doesn't turn over or anything. What else could be wrong? I think that if the clutch switch is bad then I would still have my dash lights, right? Probably I should by pass the clutch switch. I just hate cutting those wires. > >

I really wish the Yahoogroups had a better search function. This EXACT same topic happened yesterday. The most likely thing is that the battery terminals are loose. Unbolt them, clean them, grease the fittings (dielectric grease, vasoline, bearing grease etc.) and tighten them securely. Make sure that the terminals are clamped down tight, if someone used the wrong bolt it could bottom out before it properly tightens up. Also, take the fuses out of the holders and clean and grease the ends of those as well. A bad clutch switch or sidestand switch is usually when the bike just as you put it into gear. Devon

Your problem description is a bit lacking. Are you sure the battery is fully charged? Before taking unnecessary drastic actions, get a multi-meter, wiring diagram, then trouble shoot the system. If the bike is neutral, the side stand & clutch safety switches won't inhibit start up, will it attempt to start in neutral? If not is the neutral light ON when in neutral? If there is a problem with the clutch switch, remember it's adjustable & may have slipped a bit. You don't have to immediately jump it out to make it work. Knock on wood I've still got both the clutch & kick stand safety switches in my A14. At 21 K miles the only problem thus far is an adjustment to the clutch switch. You shouldn't begin cutting things out of the circuit until proven to be the problem. Once you get it fixed, then do elective electrical surgery one item at a time.

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Brent B." wrote: > Leaves > Okay, my bike had the problem of not starting about a week ago since then I have by passed the kick stand thingy and I cleaned the clutch thingy contacts, but I didn't by pass it. > > When I get the dash lights to come on and I push the starter button, I only get a slight snapping around and all of the electric goes off. It doesn't turn over or anything. What else could be wrong? I think that if the clutch switch is bad then I would still have my dash lights, right? Probably I should by pass the clutch switch. I just hate cutting those wires. > > Help Please! I haven't rode in a week. > Brent Bacon > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Brent B." wrote:

> Leaves > Okay, my bike had the problem of not starting about a week ago since

then I have by passed the kick stand thingy and I cleaned the clutch thingy contacts, but I didn't by pass it.

> > When I get the dash lights to come on and I push the starter button,

I only get a slight snapping around and all of the electric goes off. It doesn't turn over or anything. What else could be wrong? I think that if the clutch switch is bad then I would still have my dash lights, right? Probably I should by pass the clutch switch. I just hate cutting those wires.

> > Help Please! I haven't rode in a week. > Brent Bacon

Your battery cables are loose somewhere. Check all the connections, then go for a ride. Thanks CA Stu

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Brenton Bacon" wrote:

> Boy! Do I feel like a dumbass! > Thanks to Devon,Stu, Jim S. & R. Sanders for taking the time to

deal

> with my stupid problem. > I finally got time and went out to check my battery connection. > DUH! The positive was loose. > > What was I thinkin? Thanks guys. > Brent B.

hehehe Yep, same thing that happened to me a couple of months ago. MrMoose A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

dpbiker@... wrote:

>Boy! Do I feel like a dumbass! >Thanks to Devon,Stu, Jim S. & R. Sanders for taking the time to deal >with my stupid problem. >I finally got time and went out to check my battery connection. >DUH! The positive was loose. > >What was I thinkin? Thanks guys. >Brent B. >

I went out and checked mine right after Jim posted with his problem. The terminals were filthy and not very tight. Only a matter of time before I had the same problem. Devon

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Devon wrote:

> > > dpbiker@e... wrote: > > >Boy! Do I feel like a dumbass! > >Thanks to Devon,Stu, Jim S. & R. Sanders for taking the time to

deal

> >with my stupid problem. > >I finally got time and went out to check my battery connection. > >DUH! The positive was loose. > > > >What was I thinkin? Thanks guys. > >Brent B. > > > > I went out and checked mine right after Jim posted with his

problem. The

> terminals were filthy and not very tight. > Only a matter of time before I had the same problem. > > Devon

Is loctite conductive? The reason I ask is I'm using the blue threadlock on my battery bolts. I hate removing the seat when the bike won't start. Conall

klr650dotcc@... wrote:

> >Is loctite conductive? >The reason I ask is I'm using the blue threadlock on my battery bolts. >I hate removing the seat when the bike won't start. > >

1- you can use a keyhole saw to cut access holes for the seat bolts. Then, cut down some part-threaded bolts with a nut tightened onto the end of the threaded part, and you have long-reach flanged bolts. Perfect for fastening the seat without removing sidecovers. 2- I don't get this "non-conductive grease makes a bad connection" thing. You WANT grease that doesn't conduct- that way you don't get electrolytic corrosion when you bolt two different types of metal together. The electrical connection is made when you securely bolt the contacts down. Anything that breaks the film strength of the grease (the dielectric grease is actually pretty light), including bullet connectors, will get a decent connection if the contacts are clean. 3- I don't know if loctite is conductive, but it does seem to prevent corrosion on threads that it's applied to. Devon Devon

> From: "aboyandhisdawg" > Subject: Re: oversize rotors > > well stated Krokko! > > care to add that to the FAQ?

That might be a bit long-winded, but I'll consider it. On the other hand, I'm definitely adding a part about loose battery cables! And buy my stuff, everybody! http://www.bigcee.com Have a good weekend! Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125