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tubeless tire flat repair
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 6:24 pm
by klr650a17l
My KLR has tires designed for tubeless use (Conti TKC80), and tubes--
of course. I had them installed in a shop.
What if I ever get a flat on a trail in the middle of nowhere? I.e.,
are tubeless tires harder to get off and on the rim with the usual
hand tools I can bring on trips?
Carsten
03 KLR 650
Sandy, Utah
tubeless tire flat repair
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 7:53 pm
by Mike Torst
> -----Original Message-----
> From: klr650a17l [mailto:carsmidt@...]
> Subject: [DSN_klr650] Tubeless Tire Flat Repair
>
> My KLR has tires designed for tubeless use (Conti TKC80), and tubes--
> of course. I had them installed in a shop.
>
> What if I ever get a flat on a trail in the middle of nowhere? I.e.,
> are tubeless tires harder to get off and on the rim with the usual
> hand tools I can bring on trips?
Reply ----------------------------------
Yes - One solution is to get a long tire spoon and 2 short ones - The
leverage of the one long spoon will go a long way toward getting the process
of tube repair/replacement on its way. Also, buy some milk in a plastic
container. After you use it, rinse the container out and cut 3" x 3" (+-)
sections of the material out of the to-be-discarded container to make rim
protectors for the spoons.
Breaking the bead is a big first step. I have a center stand, so using the
center stand to support the KLR and then extending the side stand over the
carcass of the tire and putting the side-stand foot on the tire near the rim
will break the bead lose from my rim.
SO many posts on others have posted ideas for tire-changing. I expect that
several listers will provide very creative alternatives for you to consider.
Mike Torst
Las Vegas
>
> Carsten
> 03 KLR 650
> Sandy, Utah
>
tubeless tire flat repair
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:40 pm
by Doug Pippin
Carsten
Yes the tubeless tires are harder to get off the rims and usually require a
good bead breaker.
You can sometimes get the bead broken by riding on the flat tire for a
while although this doesn't always work.
It will also heat up the tire making it easier to get the tire off the wheel.
I recently had a flat rear tire with a tubeless tire and rode that thing
foe several miles and the bead was still on the rim.
Took the wheel off and a tire shop was able to break the bead and install a
new tube i had with me.
Doug
----------
At 08:15 PM 3/25/04, you wrote:
> Date: Fri, 26 Mar 2004 00:03:16 -0000
> From: "klr650a17l"
>Subject: Tubeless Tire Flat Repair
>
>My KLR has tires designed for tubeless use (Conti TKC80), and tubes--
>of course. I had them installed in a shop.
>
>What if I ever get a flat on a trail in the middle of nowhere? I.e.,
>are tubeless tires harder to get off and on the rim with the usual
>hand tools I can bring on trips?
>
>Carsten
>03 KLR 650
>Sandy, Utah
----------
Doug Pippin
828-684-8488
dpippin5@...
----------
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
nklr dot 3 v. dot 4, googling and a bit of what i knew...
Posted: Thu Mar 25, 2004 8:43 pm
by bigfatgreenbike
msaint@... wrote:
>I honestly don't know the specifics to your questions, but can tell you that
>I've been using Valvoline Synvisc synthetic DOT 3 / 4 brake fluid right from
>the start, and it's been good. I don't know how the one fluid can be DOT 3
>*and* 4, but that's what the bottle says...
>
DOT 3 and DOT 4 are both glycol-ether based liquids. DOT 4 has "borate
ester" in it to help limit water absorption. So if your brake system is
DOT-4, you could theoretically use either one. If it's DOT-3, you're
supposed to use DOT 3. If it says DOT 3 or 4, you could use either one.
The dot 4 will have a higher "wet" boiling point at first, but then it
will fall off until it's not really better than DOT 3.
DOT3 and DOT4 are glycol-ether based, but DOT 5 is silicone based. This
isn't hygroscopic like 3 or 4 , but it will allow any water that does
get in the system to collect at a low point. This will more rapidly
attack the inside of your brakes at that point, as opposed to 3 or 4
which absorbs the water uniformly, turns brown, and very slowly rots the
inside of your entire braking system. This makes the DOT 5 a good option
for an antique car which is hardly ever driven, stored indoors in the
dry, and for which the cost of the expensive DOT 5 and the replacement
of every seal and hose is not such a consideration. And DOT 5 is
slightly compressible, giving a mushy pedal even when fresh and properly
bled.
Where it gets confusing is DOT 5.1. This is a glycol-ether liquid,
compatible with DOT 3 and 4. NOT mixable with DOT 5.
--
Devon
Brooklyn, NY
A15-Z '01 KLR650
'81 SR500 cafe racer
"The truth's not too popular these days....."
Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man