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brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 2:32 pm
by frankconley
This coming Friday I'm picking up a freshly uncrated KLR650 from the
dealership. I am planning to keep this bike for quite some time.
It'll be used as a commuter during the week, and on nice weekends it
will be used for off-road trail riding and camping trips ~100 to 200
miles from home. Tips, hints, and suggestions for how best to break
it in would be much appreciated.
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Mon Mar 01, 2004 3:52 pm
by rsanders30117
1. Install a proper bash plate
2. Install a strip of rubber between the rear tire & the shock
to protect the shock from direct tire spray
3. Properly grease the rear suspension with moly grease & grease
the shafts to protect from corrosion.
4. Replace the exhaust heat shield screws with stainless
fasteners.
5. Replace the shift lever with a forged lever preferably one
with a case guard at the nose.
6. Pull apart all electrical connections & grease with
dielectric grease.
7. Change the headlamp fuse to 15 amp to prevent blowing it if
the dimmer switch accidentally show halfway.
8. Properly grease the wheel bearings or up grade to sealed
bearings.
9. Move the license plate up, using the bottom pair of holes
rather than the top pair.
10. If going off road, install hand guards. I've bent numerous
leavers until I did this.
11. Get a Clymer KLR manual
12. Replace the awful factory grips with Pro Grip gels grips.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "frankconley"
wrote:
> This coming Friday I'm picking up a freshly uncrated KLR650 from
the
> dealership. I am planning to keep this bike for quite some time.
> It'll be used as a commuter during the week, and on nice weekends
it
> will be used for off-road trail riding and camping trips ~100 to
200
> miles from home. Tips, hints, and suggestions for how best to break
> it in would be much appreciated.
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 3:36 am
by Edmund
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "frankconley"
wrote:
> This coming Friday I'm picking up a freshly uncrated KLR650 from
the
> dealership. I am planning to keep this bike for quite some time.
> It'll be used as a commuter during the week, and on nice weekends
it
> will be used for off-road trail riding and camping trips ~100 to
200
> miles from home. Tips, hints, and suggestions for how best to break
> it in would be much appreciated.
===========
I'm pretty new to KLRs having my 2003 for 2100 miles but this is what
I'd do if I did it all over again:
1) Read the KLR FAQ. Ride according to the break in (
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 5:36 am
by Edmund
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117"
wrote:
> 3. Properly grease the rear suspension with moly grease & grease
> the shafts to protect from corrosion.
Rsanders30117:
What part of the rear suspension needs this grease?
Edmund
A17 in the GI Joe colors
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 7:31 am
by rsanders30117
I found that Kawasaki to be very cheap with their grease. When I got
around to greasing the various pivot point I found very little grease
& not with the recommended molybdenum greases (black color). I
wished I had greased these points prior to the recommended 1st
service interval. The long bolts that are the rear suspension pivot
pins are susceptible to corrosion because they are assembled at the
factory dry, mine were beginning to corrode. The next time I did
this, everything looked great, no more corrosion & I think I can
extend the service interval by at least 50% (I'm 98% street rider).
I suggest as soon as it is convenient, get a $69 motorcycle jack &
properly pack the rear suspension with premium moly based grease &
grease the pivot bolts as you reassemble it. Then forget about it
for a while.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Edmund" wrote:
> --- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117"
> wrote:
>
> > 3. Properly grease the rear suspension with moly grease & grease
> > the shafts to protect from corrosion.
>
> Rsanders30117:
>
> What part of the rear suspension needs this grease?
>
> Edmund
> A17 in the GI Joe colors
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 9:36 am
by rdbeer
> This coming Friday I'm picking up a freshly uncrated KLR650 from the
> dealership. I am planning to keep this bike for quite some time.
> It'll be used as a commuter during the week, and on nice weekends it
> will be used for off-road trail riding and camping trips ~100 to 200
> miles from home. Tips, hints, and suggestions for how best to break
> it in would be much appreciated.
I just got one, too. Have 590 miles on it.
Check all the fasteners right away. Mine was missing the screws
holding on the left radiator shroud, and the grommet holding on the
left side cover at ~30 miles.
Also, if I could do the break-in again, I would be careful not to
load the engine below ~2500 rpm (i.e. don't let the clutch out fully
until the engine is in that range). I probably lugged my engine more
than I should have just because I was used to a quick-revving 4-cyl
750cc.
Always let the engine warm up a little before you ride off, and be
nice to it until it is fully warmed up.
I'm not an expert, but that's my advice.
Dirk
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 10:06 am
by rdbeer
A follow-up:
*I think the shroud screws may have vibrated out (it looked like
there
had been screws there). I don't know how necessary the loctite is,
after tightening all the other screws I could find, I haven't had any
problems.
*I decided to use Spectro 20W-50 during break in.
- dealer had installed some kind of 20W-50 (ok for SoCal temps).
- heard synthetic oil should NOT be used during break-in
- with all the arguments about motorcycle vs car oils, I decided to
be
safe and use motorcycle-specific oil. it doesn't add any significant
amount to the operating cost of the bike
- added 2.5L as measured by the oil bottles. this brought oil level
just barely above the top line with the bike level.
There was a lot of powdery metal in the sludge around the oil filter
when I changed the oil at 530 miles.
*The bike has been a lot of fun so far, especially when I can take it
off-road (not often). It does have some clear disadvantages in
comparison the 82 Suzuki GS750 i had previously:
- less power
- much, much less smooth engine (should be obvious, but i didn't
realize how big the difference was until I rode the Suzuki again)
- squirrely front end at high speed
- less comfortable seat
- very high center of gravity
On the other hand:
- it's light
- it's fun off-road
- it's fun in the twisties
- it has some wind protection for body and hands which actually is
nice
- it has very easy-to-use luggage platform on the back, just strap
stuff on and go
Dirk
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 11:43 am
by Devon
erowe@... wrote:
>--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117"
>wrote:
>
>
>>3. Properly grease the rear suspension with moly grease & grease
>>the shafts to protect from corrosion.
>>
>>
>
>What part of the rear suspension needs this grease?
>
>
The bolt that the swingarm pivots on, and the bearings the bolt rides on.
The top shock mount bushing, the bolt, sleeve, and bearings that the
bottom shock mount rides in.
The bolts, sleeves, and bearings that connect the uni-trak "dogbone" and
the links themselves.
While you're at it, grease both axles too.
You basically disassemble the entire rear suspension assembly, and put
waterproof "moly" bearing grease on anything that moves. This is
necessary because Kawasaki saved $0.50 by not using the correct grease
when they were putting the thing together. So you can spend hours
correcting this.
Devon
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 1:48 pm
by rsanders30117
Regarding fasteners shaking loose, I've found that #12 or " seal
washers solve a lot of KLR650 fastener problems. A seal washer is a
stainless washer with a rubber washer bounded to one side. The rubber
extends slightly past the OD & ID. These washers will grip a 6mm
bolt such as the ones holding the side panels on. With the correct
size washer, you have to push the fastener threads through the
washer. With the rubber side towards the plastic, these act like a
non-marring lock washer. The rubber grips the plastic & the
fastener, keeping them from shaking loose. I've never had one shake
loose. These are available from Home Depot, Lowe's, etc.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rdbeer" wrote:
> > This coming Friday I'm picking up a freshly uncrated KLR650 from
the
> > dealership. I am planning to keep this bike for quite some
time.
> > It'll be used as a commuter during the week, and on nice weekends
it
> > will be used for off-road trail riding and camping trips ~100 to
200
> > miles from home. Tips, hints, and suggestions for how best to
break
> > it in would be much appreciated.
>
> I just got one, too. Have 590 miles on it.
>
> Check all the fasteners right away. Mine was missing the screws
> holding on the left radiator shroud, and the grommet holding on the
> left side cover at ~30 miles.
>
> Also, if I could do the break-in again, I would be careful not to
> load the engine below ~2500 rpm (i.e. don't let the clutch out
fully
> until the engine is in that range). I probably lugged my engine
more
> than I should have just because I was used to a quick-revving 4-cyl
> 750cc.
> Always let the engine warm up a little before you ride off, and be
> nice to it until it is fully warmed up.
>
> I'm not an expert, but that's my advice.
> Dirk
brand spanking new klr--tips?
Posted: Tue Mar 02, 2004 2:20 pm
by Mark Lewis
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117"
wrote:
> Regarding fasteners shaking loose, I've found that #12 or " seal
> washers solve a lot of KLR650 fastener problems. A seal washer is
a
> stainless washer with a rubber washer bounded to one side. The
rubber
Or the old Harley standard "blue Loc-tite everything."