Wilsons Sandbox

Since the bike start with the enricher & will run without the enricher if the throttle is open, I think the problem is the idle mixture screw and/or the throttle idle position. I suggest running the idle mixture in to closed while counting the turns. Then back the idle mixture screw out about a turn from the original setting. The idle mixture orifice is extremely tiny and could easily be blocked. Turning the mixture screw should break any debris loose & flush it out. Plus this will give you information as to its setting. Folks on the web can give you tips on where a good setting typically is (I don't have my maintenance notes with me or I would give you my setting). Between tweaking the mixture screw & the throttle position you should get you problem sorted out. good luck & keep us posted

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sprint64" wrote: > Hi > I'm having a problem that's causing my bike to run poorly, and hope > someone can give me some advice. The bike is a 1999 KLR 650 (non > California model). It sat for 6 or 7 months without being started > (and I neglected to put fuel stabilizer in the tank). It will start > with no problem at all, but if I give it the least amount of > throttle, or un-choke it, the engine stalls. If I rev it up very > quickly (while in neutral), it will run as long as I keep the RPMs > above 2000. I can of course un-choke it while it's at high RPMs, but > again the engine will stall once I release the throttle. My guess was > that it was a dirty carb problem caused from being left idle for so > long. I took the carb apart and cleaned it with Carb Cleaner as best > I could (It actually looked spotless before I cleaned it), but the > bike acted exactly the same. I'm still convinced it's a carb problem, > maybe even some part/ area I didn't clean well enough. > Is there a specific part of the carb I should look at that I might > have missed? > Am I incorrectly diagnosing the problem? > Thanks > Robert

Good starting point is 2 full turns out from bottom. Then Follow Jakes method of finding the "Sweet Spot". http://www.sagebrushmachine.com/pilottool.html Jake also makes a nifty tool for doing just that, or if your a cheap broken old soul like me, you can take a small flat tip screwdriver bit, clamp it in the vice and cut off almost all the hex part, leaving just a little so you fingers can turn it, this way it can be adjusted with the bike running, although watch out for knuckle burns if the motor is warmed up. But by chance you you inspected the carb diaphram ? Something in the back of my head is saying to check that but I cant give a good reason. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "rsanders30117" wrote: > Since the bike start with the enricher & will run without the > enricher if the throttle is open, I think the problem is the idle > mixture screw and/or the throttle idle position. > > I suggest running the idle mixture in to closed while counting the > turns. Then back the idle mixture screw out about a turn from the > original setting. The idle mixture orifice is extremely tiny and > could easily be blocked. Turning the mixture screw should break any > debris loose & flush it out. Plus this will give you information as > to its setting. > > Folks on the web can give you tips on where a good setting typically > is (I don't have my maintenance notes with me or I would give you my > setting). > > Between tweaking the mixture screw & the throttle position you should > get you problem sorted out. > > good luck & keep us posted > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "sprint64" wrote: > > Hi > > I'm having a problem that's causing my bike to run poorly, and hope > > someone can give me some advice. The bike is a 1999 KLR 650 (non > > California model). It sat for 6 or 7 months without being started > > (and I neglected to put fuel stabilizer in the tank). It will start > > with no problem at all, but if I give it the least amount of > > throttle, or un-choke it, the engine stalls. If I rev it up very > > quickly (while in neutral), it will run as long as I keep the RPMs > > above 2000. I can of course un-choke it while it's at high RPMs, > but > > again the engine will stall once I release the throttle. My guess > was > > that it was a dirty carb problem caused from being left idle for so > > long. I took the carb apart and cleaned it with Carb Cleaner as > best > > I could (It actually looked spotless before I cleaned it), but the > > bike acted exactly the same. I'm still convinced it's a carb > problem, > > maybe even some part/ area I didn't clean well enough. > > Is there a specific part of the carb I should look at that I might > > have missed? > > Am I incorrectly diagnosing the problem? > > Thanks > > Robert

TLrydr@... wrote:

> Devon > I sent your mail to my engine builder he has done just about >every think to a KLR to TRY to make it fast, This flat tracker guy Did he >every get the KLR to make any Power? I know that my friends KLRs have alway >gotten way better gas milage than me, And we run side by side, like about 10 to 15 >more MPG. I am doing my Cams in the next few weeks, if that dont bump my MPG >then i will have him port my head,,, Who on the list a LONG time ago made a >700 or 750cc KLR ????? >Mike > >

That was Steve Kesselring at Quality Engine something or other. They build exhausts and lowering links, but Steve has no interest in selling big bore kits. He did a 727 and a 770 as one-off projects. The 770 was put in an EX500 chassis IIRC. A gentleman named Stan Millard (contacted him through Thumperpage.com) did the KLR flattracker. His post: Devon, almost nothing I did would be of any value to you in your application. I started with a KLR600 (actually 560cc) and used a KLR650 cylinder for 612cc, just under the AMA limit of 614cc at the time. I got a 13-1 Venolia piston from the Kawasaki dealer in Peoria, IL, a 1/2" longer than stock con rod from Carrillo, Z1 Kawasaki drag race profile cams from MegaCycle, Titanium valves from a Z1 Kawasaki, Valve spring package from a KZ650 Kawasaki that had the shim under bucket setup instead of the KLR type with the shim on top which fails with rad cams and high rpm. Mega/muffler from a BSA Gold Star, the Lucas alternator from a BSA, an ign trigger from a Chrysler lean burn engine with 7 of the 8 "tits" ground off and mounted on the rear counter ballancer, the "black box" from a 700cc V-twin Honda, a 44mm Mikuni taper bored to 46mm, I increased the oil flow to the cam area, I ported the intake so high that the port went through where the oil return in the head was, so I had to weld in a boss on the side of the head and return the oil to the crankcase with an outside line. I baked the water jacket in the head with sodium cilicate (not sure on that spelling) to heat dam the combustion chamber so all my HP didn't go out the radiator. It's the pressure on the piston from the heat of combustion expanding that makes HP, the more the better and I wanted to keep as much in the chamber and not the radiator as poss. Since 4th & 5th gears are both OD, I took 5th out of the trans to lighten it up and have less stuff spining around in there. As you can see not much of this applys to a trail bike. Except for being way to heavy, Kawasaki did a pretty good job on that thing for what it is expected to be used for. Best Regards, Stan -- Devon Brooklyn, NY A15-Z '01 KLR650 '81 SR500 cafe racer "The truth's not too popular these days....." Arnold Schwarzenneger, in The Running Man