Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 6:51 pm**

So when I tried to tighten the foot peg/center stand bolt it stripped. I had the torque wrench set for 13 lbs as suggested. The torque wrench was from Ace and not knowing how 13 lbs feels, I went to far. I now have a Sears wrench and should work fine. Any suggestions on how to fix my stripped foot peg bolt. I'm a little upset with myself, so any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Jeffrey

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 7:47 pm**

This is not necessarily the answer. I'm asking the group if it is though. Could not all parts be drilled for the next size bolt and then drill and tap the threads? My 2 footpeg bolts ('03) seem to screw into a tapped, welded-up box outside the frame tube. Is there something under there I do not understand? New, tapped threads not doable? 13 foot-pounds (13 pounds on a foot-long wrench) or about 20 pounds using a 1/2" rachet handle (roughly 8" from the center of the socket to where you grab it). Not a lot of force & how about locktite? Jim W in AZ

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 4:51 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Problem > So when I tried to tighten the foot peg/center stand bolt it > stripped. I had the torque wrench set for 13 lbs as suggested. The > torque wrench was from Ace and not knowing how 13 lbs feels, I went > to far. I now have a Sears wrench and should work fine. Any > suggestions on how to fix my stripped foot peg bolt. I'm a little > upset with myself, so any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jeffrey

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 8:37 pm**

Blue Locktight is perfect on the foot peg bolts, and just about everything else thats bolted onto a KLR that you don't want to fall off or retighten after every ride. I'd bet a lot of fasteners are broken by people who use torque wrenches on things that just don't need to be torqued, like foot pegs and oil filter covers, especially when using the wrong wrench for the job. I rarely use one until I'm inside an engine, for example, I would absolutely use one for the stretch bolt that holds the magneto on and things like that, but foot peg bolts? Am I all wet here? What do the rest of you guys do that have been wrenching for a long time? Dan, Sacramento A16 XT225 YZF600R (Snipped)

----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim The Canoeist" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>; "Jeff" Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2003 5:51 PM Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Problem > 13 foot-pounds (13 pounds on a foot-long wrench) or about 20 pounds using a > 1/2" rachet handle (roughly 8" from the center of the socket to where you > grab it). Not a lot of force & how about locktite? > > Jim W in AZ

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 8:51 pm**

Does anyone know what is really behind those welded on boxes for the footpeg bolts? Are there tapped tubes in there or is the outside plate just tapped and that's it? What happens when after you have drilled and tapped to 10mm threads and they give up the ghost? It just seems that this is a very weak spot on the bike that needs a better solution. Steve A8L

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff" wrote: > So when I tried to tighten the foot peg/center stand bolt it > stripped. I had the torque wrench set for 13 lbs as suggested. The > torque wrench was from Ace and not knowing how 13 lbs feels, I went > to far. I now have a Sears wrench and should work fine. Any > suggestions on how to fix my stripped foot peg bolt. I'm a little > upset with myself, so any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jeffrey

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 9:01 pm**

In a message dated 2003-09-30 4:54:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, pwachaser@... writes:

> > > So when I tried to tighten the foot peg/center stand bolt it > stripped. I had the torque wrench set for 13 lbs as suggested. The > torque wrench was from Ace and not knowing how 13 lbs feels, I went > to far. I now have a Sears wrench and should work fine. Any > suggestions on how to fix my stripped foot peg bolt. I'm a little > upset with myself, so any help would be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Jeffrey > >

Jeff, A helicoil. I was reading an Edelbrock catalog last night and for some of their heads they even advertise that the intake manifold and exhaust manifold bolt holes have been helicoiled for improved strength. So a helicoil is a better than new repair. You can either go with a stock thread of go up a size for improved strength. WHen reassembling make sure to use red loctite on the bolts - blue is for parts that go on and off frequently and red is for the stuff that should more or less stay permanently mounted. I wouldn't get top concerned about the 'quality' of your torque wrench. Over the years most my bikes have had one to four helicoils. Using the advertised torque I've had more than one bolt strip out on nearly every bike I've owned (the only exception was an Italian Cagiva). Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 9:02 pm**

At 1:51 AM +0000 10/1/03, ssjarz wrote:

>Does anyone know what is really behind those welded on boxes for the >footpeg bolts? Are there tapped tubes in there or is the outside >plate just tapped and that's it? What happens when after you have >drilled and tapped to 10mm threads and they give up the ghost? It >just seems that this is a very weak spot on the bike that needs a >better solution.

I think there's just nuts welded to the backside of the box. If mine gave up the ghost at 10mm, I'd weld big blobs of metal in there, and drill & tap 'em. Mark

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 11:41 pm**

----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Bittner" > > I rarely use one until I'm inside an engine, for example, I would absolutely > use one for the stretch bolt that holds the magneto on and things like that, > but foot peg bolts? Am I all wet here? What do the rest of you guys do that > have been wrenching for a long time? > I use a torque wrench in situations where it is critical to tighten the bolts down evenly, like head bolts, some cases manifold bolts, and crank bearing bolts. Most of the time, it's just "tight enough". Sometimes, I wonder where the technical writers are coming from with some of those torque values. Like the time I was replacing a small tractor head. The book called for 140 lb. No way was I going to do that on those tiny head bolts. Torqued it to 90, and it was fine for years. On the KLR, all I've ever done is change the doohickey, adjust the valves, and change consumable parts, so my KLR has never seen a torque wrench. Allan A14

Posted: **Tue Sep 30, 2003 11:48 pm**

You adjusted the valves and your bike has never seen a torque wrench? What about the cam caps? those have specific torque values that I am guessing are pretty important? Russ

On Tuesday, September 30, 2003, at 09:37 PM, Allan Patton wrote: > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Dan Bittner" >> >> I rarely use one until I'm inside an engine, for example, I would > absolutely >> use one for the stretch bolt that holds the magneto on and things like > that, >> but foot peg bolts? Am I all wet here? What do the rest of you guys do > that >> have been wrenching for a long time? >> > > I use a torque wrench in situations where it is critical to tighten the > bolts down evenly, like head bolts, some cases manifold bolts, and > crank > bearing bolts. Most of the time, it's just "tight enough". > > Sometimes, I wonder where the technical writers are coming from with > some of > those torque values. Like the time I was replacing a small tractor > head. The > book called for 140 lb. No way was I going to do that on those tiny > head > bolts. Torqued it to 90, and it was fine for years. > > On the KLR, all I've ever done is change the doohickey, adjust the > valves, > and change consumable parts, so my KLR has never seen a torque wrench. > > Allan A14 > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

Posted: **Wed Oct 01, 2003 6:32 am**

I used a torque wrench on maybe 2 bolts doing the valves, mostly just to get the feel for that torque spec, then the wrench was basically useless, since it would fit into place to do the rest. To some the "feel" just aint there. Some say the rotor bolt at a massive 130 ft lbs is "ALOT" funny I hit 130 ft lbs and thought the wrench was wrong so set it to 140 and sure enough had to pull just a tad bit more to make it click. But the rotor bolt is a beefy chunk, as compaired to the valve cap bolts. Dooden A15 Green Ape

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, Russ wrote: > You adjusted the valves and your bike has never seen a torque wrench? > What about the cam caps? those have specific torque values that I am > guessing are pretty important? > > > Russ > > On Tuesday, September 30, 2003, at 09:37 PM, Allan Patton wrote: > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Dan Bittner" > >> > >> I rarely use one until I'm inside an engine, for example, I would > > absolutely > >> use one for the stretch bolt that holds the magneto on and things like > > that, > >> but foot peg bolts? Am I all wet here? What do the rest of you guys do > > that > >> have been wrenching for a long time? > >> > > > > I use a torque wrench in situations where it is critical to tighten the > > bolts down evenly, like head bolts, some cases manifold bolts, and > > crank > > bearing bolts. Most of the time, it's just "tight enough". > > > > Sometimes, I wonder where the technical writers are coming from with > > some of > > those torque values. Like the time I was replacing a small tractor > > head. The > > book called for 140 lb. No way was I going to do that on those tiny > > head > > bolts. Torqued it to 90, and it was fine for years. > > > > On the KLR, all I've ever done is change the doohickey, adjust the > > valves, > > and change consumable parts, so my KLR has never seen a torque wrench. > > > > Allan A14 > > > > > > > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to > > http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > >

Posted: **Wed Oct 01, 2003 7:57 am**

Use blue then, but use it. Loctite is the religion.

On Wed, Oct 01, 2003 at 03:30:46AM -0000, Jeff wrote: > With the center stand installed I'm wondering if using loctite is a > good or bad Idea. I might have to take it off to do more repairs. -- ___ ______ _____ __ ________ ___ / _ |< < / == / ___/__ / /_ /_ __/ / __ ____ _ ___ /__ \ / __ |/ // / ****/ (_ / _ \/ __/ / / / _ \/ // / ' \/ _ \ /__/ /_/ |_/_//_/ == \___/\___/\__/ /_/ /_//_/\_,_/_/_/_/ .__/ (_) 8100 miles*Russel Lines*Supertrapp Race* /_/ http://www.panix.com/~cesser/mybike/

Wilsons Sandbox

carb mods and mpg

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem

problem