Wilsons Sandbox

> The best way to trip the lights while on a bike, is to: > > 1. Be sure that you are in the center of the lane when approaching > the intersection so as to hit all of the loops right in the center, > catching both the bottom line and the top line of each and every > loop. (you of course will need to be more careful when doing this > because this is also where most of the oil/grease from the cagers

> too, ESPECIALLY FIRST RAIN) > > 2. Go slowly over the last one or two, and when you stop, put the > biggest mass of metal (your engine and frame) right over top of the > first or last line in the last loop, like the small line in the > letter Q, not in the middle of the loop where the tires and very > little metal will be over the wires. The closer the metal is to

> ground, the better, because you don't have the metal mass of a car. > > 3. If you wear steel toe or steel shank boots (like I do), when you > stop as described above, just put your toe or arch of your foot, on > one of the wires to the left or right of you. > > > Hope this helps you guys better understand how those things work,

> how to get them to work for you. I have had very little problems > with lights since working on them. > > MrMoose > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klrjeffb" wrote: > I have been working with (and teaching) electromagnetics for awhile > now, especially proximity sensors. > > I have found (at least in MN)that to get the biggest mass of metal > over the loop, it works best to center the mass of your bike over the > part of the loop that runs parallel to your direction of travel, > thereby placing a larger mass along the sensor wire as opposed to > across it. > > Since all sides of this loop are equally energized, it makes sense to > place your bike over the greatest length of the loop you can. > > I have been doing this for a awhile now and there are only a couple > of lights that will not trip. > > I have also been using this method when putting to the store on my > 50cc Zuma scooter and it trips just about all of the lights as well. > > Try it! > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Keith Saltzer" > wrote: > > > > The best way to trip the lights while on a bike, is to: > > > > 1. Be sure that you are in the center of the lane when approaching > > the intersection so as to hit all of the loops right in the center, > > catching both the bottom line and the top line of each and every > > loop. (you of course will need to be more careful when doing this > > because this is also where most of the oil/grease from the cagers > is > > too, ESPECIALLY FIRST RAIN) > > > > 2. Go slowly over the last one or two, and when you stop, put the > > biggest mass of metal (your engine and frame) right over top of the > > first or last line in the last loop, like the small line in the > > letter Q, not in the middle of the loop where the tires and very > > little metal will be over the wires. The closer the metal is to > the > > ground, the better, because you don't have the metal mass of a car. > > > > 3. If you wear steel toe or steel shank boots (like I do), when you > > stop as described above, just put your toe or arch of your foot, on > > one of the wires to the left or right of you. > > > > > > Hope this helps you guys better understand how those things work, > and > > how to get them to work for you. I have had very little problems > > with lights since working on them. > > > > MrMoose > > A8 (Barbie and Ken special)

>I have thought of that, and tried it as well, but did not mention it >because for one thing, as you mentioned, the loop is equally >energized, and so you can "break" the field anywhere. The other >thing is that in order to center the mass of your bike over the lines >running parallel, you have to pay more attention to the ground to >both see the line, and line up your bike with the line, and then do a >balancing act on that line as you ride up to the intersection. It's >just harder to do, and you risk missing the line and loop altogether >if your not right on the tight rope line. > >You also cannot put a steel toe/shank boot down on the line, which >gets metal right ontop of the wires, (works really well) because you >are ontop of one of them, and the other is too far away to reach. > >Just somemore thoughts. > >MrMoose >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) >

> At 07:18 PM 9/17/2003 -0000, you wrote: > >I have thought of that, and tried it as well, but did not mention

> >because for one thing, as you mentioned, the loop is equally > >energized, and so you can "break" the field anywhere. The other > >thing is that in order to center the mass of your bike over the

> >running parallel, you have to pay more attention to the ground to > >both see the line, and line up your bike with the line, and then

> >balancing act on that line as you ride up to the intersection.

> >just harder to do, and you risk missing the line and loop

> >if your not right on the tight rope line. > > > >You also cannot put a steel toe/shank boot down on the line, which > >gets metal right ontop of the wires, (works really well) because

> >are ontop of one of them, and the other is too far away to reach. > > > >Just somemore thoughts. > > > >MrMoose > >A8 (Barbie and Ken special) > > > Ok, now what do you do if the intersection your waiting at uses a

> sensor or cameras used for sensing vehicles? > Alan Henderson A13 Iowa

> > In the still of the night very early Sunday, long after the camp fire > burnded down to coals and after our epic dinner of NY steak, fried > onions, camp biscuts, cucumber and tomato salad and cold beer, > somewere between sleep and awake with the full moon overhead there was > the haunting sounds of three owls perched within our camp. Hearing > their calls in the still night, whooitt, hoo, hooo, hoooo one sounded > small another slightly larger and the one with the deep chesty hoooo > must have been large enough to carry off someones pet or even small > children. This was there home and were were just guests laying still, > tired dusty and happy. >