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help needed intermittent relay
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2003 9:00 am
by klr_a4
Hi,
I need to verify the function of a relay that is behaving
intermittently. Buykawasaki.com was kinda vague, and I don't have my
manuals on location.
The Previous owner never performed the two safety switch bypasses.
There is a relay with a 4 wires, a single red/blue wire, a black wire
and two yellow/red wires , located to the left of the battery ,
behind the black cover . The four wires are encased in a white
connector that is plugged into the bottom surface of the relay. It's
encased in a rubber holder thingy, and hangs on a bracket. I had to
remove the black cover over the side stand switch to get my hands on
it.
My guess is what we all know, but I need to verify this is the relay
I think it is. It's been a few years since I have done this process.
I would like to defeat the safety switches and wonder if this rework
will fix my problem. Symptoms are , no voltage at the battery, 20mv
or so, then everything mysteriously comes back to normal. I can hear
the relay in question click when it fails. Right now the bike starts,
but I want to fix it for good, before I button it back up. I'd like
to relocate the main fuse, as there is barely enough room under the
seat, but can't do that mod now.
I have recently replaced the battery, but feel it's ok.
Anybody have this problem before? Please reply to the whole list, as
I am reading the messages on the webpage, I'm not recieving any mail.
Thanks in advance
Conall
help needed intermittent relay
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2003 1:21 pm
by dumbazz650
Thats the starter circuit relay. It's only there to keep the starter
from engaging -inhibit function.
Remove the starter circuit relay, and bypass it by inserting a short
jumper into the relay socket between the Yellow/Red connection and
the Black connection. Tape up very well with black electrical tape
and reinsert into rubber relay holder. Bind it down with a zip tie
or two. I made the jumper using three inches of 14g RED wire and two
crimp on 1/4 inch male spade connectors. Easy to plug in, easy to
reset back to stock. Note that the connector has two Yellow/Red
connections -use either as these are electrically the same.
Use the removed starter circuit relay as a spare for fan relay (both
have same part#). The relay only serves an inhibit function -it
prevents you from starting, unless ....
Mark
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "klr_a4" wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I need to verify the function of a relay that is behaving
> intermittently. Buykawasaki.com was kinda vague, and I don't have
my
> manuals on location.
> The Previous owner never performed the two safety switch bypasses.
> There is a relay with a 4 wires, a single red/blue wire, a black
wire
> and two yellow/red wires , located to the left of the battery ,
> behind the black cover . The four wires are encased in a white
> connector that is plugged into the bottom surface of the relay.
It's
> encased in a rubber holder thingy, and hangs on a bracket. I had to
> remove the black cover over the side stand switch to get my hands
on
> it.
> My guess is what we all know, but I need to verify this is the
relay
> I think it is. It's been a few years since I have done this process.
> I would like to defeat the safety switches and wonder if this
rework
> will fix my problem. Symptoms are , no voltage at the battery, 20mv
> or so, then everything mysteriously comes back to normal. I can
hear
> the relay in question click when it fails. Right now the bike
starts,
> but I want to fix it for good, before I button it back up. I'd like
> to relocate the main fuse, as there is barely enough room under the
> seat, but can't do that mod now.
> I have recently replaced the battery, but feel it's ok.
> Anybody have this problem before? Please reply to the whole list,
as
> I am reading the messages on the webpage, I'm not recieving any
mail.
> Thanks in advance
>
> Conall
bad noise was from new doohickey
Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2003 6:57 pm
by ridinghome@aol.com
Finally got around to opening up the KLR to see what was causing the "Bad
Noise" that had been getting louder. Top end was fine, valves hadn't changed much
in the 1700 miles since the 500 mile adjustment, cam caps were tight,
compression release ok.
Opened up the side and went into the Doohickey, which is where I thought the
sound was coming from anyway. Hmmm, everything looks ok, no loose or missing
bits. I poke around a bit, and hello, what is this the Doohickey doesn't move
at all! Pried it outward off the shaft a smidge and lo and behold the Doohickey
will now move side to side and bring slack or tension to the balancer chain.
I'd ordered a file-to-fit Doohickey, and opened it up only enough to drive it
onto the shaft snugly. Seems I drove it a bit too deep and up against the
"wall" behind it where it wouldn't rotate freely. I didn't notice it because I
didn't verify correct operation before buttoning it up when I did the
installation (actually I remember giving it an "extra" tap after I'd hooked up the
spring and was ready to begin closing it up). So the balancer chain got lose enough
to hear, and my "adjustments" were having no effect.
Moral of the Story - Though it had a happy ending, be sure to check, recheck,
and then check again that things are as they should be before you declare
it's Miller Time and congratulate yourself on a job well done.
Just glad it was my bike, and not someone's who I'd been assisting ..
And be sure to ride to work Wednesday!
Courtney in Dallas
STOC 1052
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