Wilsons Sandbox

----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Johnson" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 1:03 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Head bearings > Hi all- > I've searched the archives and can't find a suitable answer (i.e. one that I like). My roommate has a KLR that needs headbearings in a big way. As I fix the vehicles (she grows the veggies) I figured it would be an easy two-hour job. As some of you may know there is no way to tap out the lower race from above. I was thinking of cutting it with a dremel (but aren't races hardened steel?), or fabbing a crooked punch out of 1/4 rebar (don't know if I can make a good shape for it). She is planning on selling the bike as soon as it is back together, so an $85 tool is not going to fly. Also when I called the local Kawi dealer for advice the service manager had no idea there was a tool for it, and seem incredulous when I explained there were no notches in the head-tube to get a punch in there. So they were no help. I throw myself at the mercy of the list, because my roommate is threatening to cut off the produce supply, and has taken my motorcycle to compensate for the lack of hers. > > Cheers- > Scott Okay - I have hit this problem with a few bikes and the answer is flat tire irons. The ones with the small lip and curve at each end. If you push one up from below you should be able to wedge it on the top lip of the bearing race. Then pull it up hard against the bottom of the headstock, it is usually at a 30 degree angle now. Get a suitable drift ( I use a 24" inch engineers flat blade screwdriver BIG and STRONG ) and place it against the flat of the iron nearest the bearing shell and HIT IT ! One or three good hards wacks should be sufficient to hear a satisfying tinkle of bearing shell on the workshop floor. Of course do this AFTER you have removed the top shell for more clearence for the drift. It can be done solo once you get the technique , but often requires another person to do the hitting and holding of the drift the first time you attempt it. For insertion a simple tool can be made with a piece of threaded bar and a suitable bit of scrap aluminium bar. Drill a hole to take the threaded bar square through the ally bar, and then half the ally bar .Machine suitable diameter cones at the end of the two pieces to suit your bearing shells. Then simply tap the shells in place halfway with the old shells as drifts and place the cones against the shell faces. Insert the threaded bar and attach a suitable large washer and nut at each end. Hold one end still with a spanner and use another spanner to tighten. Make sure the bearings are seating square and apply as much force as you need to seat the bearings home. The ally "drifts" will deform before the bearing does if too much pressure is applied. No numb wrists and hands from vibration, square seated bearing shells and all done in usually 10 mins ! Well assuming you know a good engineer to make the tool for you, like I do I have different sized drifts for different bikes in the stable. Luckily the Bandit 1200 and the two GS850's all use the same size head bearings HTH Scouse --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.As much as it can be ... Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.490 / Virus Database: 289 - Release Date: 16/06/03

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > Its the "@" messing it up try just typing "at" since yahoo groups > strips the email addresses. > > Dooden > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "cadcamkenny" wrote: > > Trying to post the URL. > > "http://briefcase.yahoo.com/kbelfatto@a..."