Wilsons Sandbox

You're doing all this with the wheel back on, right ? Bogdan

> I had to pull my front wheel to put the lowered UFO fender on, and now > I can't seem to get any pressure in my front brake line. > > The reservoir is full, and fluid comes out of the bleeder valve, but I > can't seem to build up any pressure in the line. > > I've been following the manual, re: > > 1. Pull the reservoir cap > 2. Pull the bleeder valve > 3. Fill the reservoir > 4. Pump the brake until the bleeder vavle bleeds > 5. Replace bleeder valve > 6. Replace valve cover > > Is there something I'm missing? > > > > > > >

This just in from "The Great White North", Just went through this rather lengthy process in Moab. 1 Clean both the bleeder screw and reservoir areas to prevent contamination of lines etc. 2 Cover tank with something to protect paint from brake fluid. 3 Make sure that there are no high points in the front line especially where the line crosses over to the left side. 4 Remove reservoir cover and clean screw threads and seal 5 Fill reservoir and then cover with cloth to prevent flying fluid. I use a piece of clear plastic so I can see the level as I work. 6 Pump front brake lever repeatedly and hold. 7 Open bleeder screw briefly to release fluid and close while fluid is still coming out under pressure. 8 Repeat this process until you have built up pressure in the line and bled out all remaining air. Keep your eye on the reservoir level 9 I tap the lines lightly to ensure that any air bubbles are dislodged during the bleeding process. 10 The pump, hold, open close process will take some time before you feel the lever get any harder to pull or notice a decrease in travel. It will bottom out first but will get hard eventually, EVENTUALLY. 11 Once complete, top up the reservoir, add a couple of drops of loctite to the screws and wipe everything down. 12 Test ride/stop and enjoy. 13 It's always a good idea to look at the caliper and pads when you're down there to make sure there are no leaks, pads are wearing evenly etc. Don't get aggressive with new pads for the first 60 miles or so to allow them to "bed in". Hope this helps....... just keep pumping and you'll see/feel the change. 2. Cheers, Dave Watkins 1998 KLR 650 " He who has no name" Calgary, Alberta, Canada dave@... Voice: 1-403-701-5746 Fax: 1-403-266-0626

----- Original Message ----- From: "JStotler" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 11:15 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] No pressure in front brake line > I had to pull my front wheel to put the lowered UFO fender on, and now > I can't seem to get any pressure in my front brake line. > > The reservoir is full, and fluid comes out of the bleeder valve, but I > can't seem to build up any pressure in the line. > > I've been following the manual, re: > > 1. Pull the reservoir cap > 2. Pull the bleeder valve > 3. Fill the reservoir > 4. Pump the brake until the bleeder vavle bleeds > 5. Replace bleeder valve > 6. Replace valve cover > > Is there something I'm missing? > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

I had a similar problem last year that came from a warped rotor. Criswell JStotler wrote:

> I had to pull my front wheel to put the lowered UFO fender on, and now > I can't seem to get any pressure in my front brake line. > > The reservoir is full, and fluid comes out of the bleeder valve, but I > can't seem to build up any pressure in the line. > > I've been following the manual, re: > > 1. Pull the reservoir cap > 2. Pull the bleeder valve > 3. Fill the reservoir > 4. Pump the brake until the bleeder vavle bleeds > 5. Replace bleeder valve > 6. Replace valve cover > > Is there something I'm missing? > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> I had to pull my front wheel to put the lowered UFO fender on, and now > I can't seem to get any pressure in my front brake line. >

That's the part of your account that I don't understand. Why after the wheel was reinstalled and the brake was pumped a few times didn't the pressure come back ?? That's not a normal part of wheel removal. I hope. Bogdan

Full screen studio photo at http://www.bikes4sale.co.za/media/kawasaki_dual.jpg

----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Pedley" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>; "hens_p" Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 07:14 Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] ironjungle.com updated / was KLR color > Use Google search engine at www.google.com, select "images", enter KLR650 as > search term. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "hens_p" > To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 21:04 > Subject: [DSN_klr650] ironjungle.com updated / was KLR color > > > > Well as much as a hated to, I added the 2004 KLR to the > > ironjungle.com KLR Timeline page. I showed the '04 pic to my wife > > (who knows nothing about bikes) and her first reply was "it looks > > like a girls bike". > > > > BTW- I'm still looking for the studio shots of the > > 1988, 1990, 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994 > > model KLRs. The pics I have of those models are good, but I would > > rather have the Kawa studio photo. Any help on this would be great. > > > > Thanks > > Pat > > ironjungle.com > > > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > >