Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Wed May 28, 2003 4:17 pm**

So exactly what is it inside a fork that turns the oil into black & gray slimy goo? Ya know how hard that stuff is to get off the ceiling? Hard lemme tell ya. Oh and just because one fork leg didn't have any pressure, DO NOT pull the drain plug on the other fork without checking for pressure, FIRST. See ceiling note above. The original plan was to see if KLR 650 fork springs would fit into the KLR 250. The quick answer, NO. KLR 650 springs are 31mm OD, where the little brother 250 springs are only 29mm OD. (Dang) Looks like I'm going back together with new oil, replaced seals and maybe a slightly longer pre-load spacer, will see how the new oil works out first. Book sez fork oil should be SAE 10W20. I know what that means in motor oil but have never seen a multi-viscosity hydraulic oil. Thoughts? What about using cheap stuff like ATF fluid. What is the equivalent SAE weight for Dextron ATF? What about old Type F Auto trans fluid? What about mixing up a batch of 10W40 half & half with ATF? Yeah in reality I'll probably break down and go on to buy a couple bottles of bel ray fork oil but not sure that I "really" need the stuff. Seems to me, any hydraulic designated oil would work for the same purpose. Power steering fluid, mineral oil. What think ye? Don't reply with testimonials of uncle tommy who used straight chocolate milk in his forks and could wheelie in any gear, NO CRUCH needed either........ Dan / \

Posted: **Wed May 28, 2003 4:45 pm**

Dan Pauley wrote:

> > So exactly what is it inside a fork that turns the oil into > black & gray slimy goo?

aluminum, steel, and material from the bushings wearing off. Hard anodizing the forks sliders slows this down a bit.

> > Book sez fork oil should be SAE 10W20. > I know what that means in motor oil but have never seen a > multi-viscosity hydraulic oil. Thoughts?

Never seen it either. I use 10w.

> What about using cheap stuff like ATF fluid.

Really good for the seals, lasts a long time, low stiction, viscosity issues.

> What is the equivalent SAE weight for Dextron ATF?

I've heard it varies depending on brand, usually arouns 7w. Don't know for sure. Used it in my buddy's CM400 with excellent results.

> What about old Type F Auto trans fluid?

ATF is cheap, get new stuff.

> What about mixing up a batch of 10W40 half & half with ATF? >

additive package is different than a suspension oil, but it will work. And you're mixing it with something of unknown viscosity.

> Yeah in reality I'll probably break down and go on to buy a > couple bottles of bel ray fork oil but not sure that I > "really" need the stuff.

You NEED oil in your forks, just like you need it in your motor. How much and which type, depends. I know for certain Belray 10w works fine and lasts OK. Maybe the ATF will be better, maybe not. If you have time to experiment, and don't mind draining the forks a couple more times, then try out the ATF and report back. Devon -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

Posted: **Thu May 29, 2003 6:59 am**

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Steve Pye" wrote:

> Just got home yesterday afternoon from a nice 3000+ km ride on my

new DL-1000. I'm impressed. I think I made the right choice.

>

It performed very well on the gravel Trans Labrador Highway.

>

Any advice or comment on Labrador ? I'm going there at the end of june with a friend of mine. Both on KLR. Photo would be nice also. Hubert

Posted: **Thu May 29, 2003 7:15 am**

My first m.c. was a Kaw G31M, and I believe the manual stated to use ATF in the forks. Thats what I've used to replace fork oil in all my bikes since then. It always seemed to work as well as the old oils (whatever they were), and was cheaper , by a long shot, than fork oil. BEAN

Posted: **Thu May 29, 2003 8:09 am**

In a message dated 2003-05-29 5:55:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, babsey@... writes:

> > My first m.c. was a Kaw G31M, and I believe the manual > stated to use ATF in the forks. Thats what I've used to replace fork oil in > all my bikes since then. It always seemed to work as well as the old oils > (whatever they were), and was cheaper , by a long shot, than fork oil. > > BEAN > >

I remember that back in the 70s that ATF was popular for dirt bike suspension because it had antifoaming properties as well as being little effected by heat. These days I forget which is which, but when comparing the Ford and GM ATF fluids one was the equivalent of a 7W and the other a 10W. As long as you are happy with the dampening action of lighter weight fork oils I can't see any reason why you couldn't use ATF and save some money. Pat G'ville, Nv [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Posted: **Thu May 29, 2003 8:39 am**

kdxkawboy@... wrote:

> I remember that back in the 70s that ATF was popular for dirt bike suspension > because it had antifoaming properties as well as being little effected by > heat. These days I forget which is which, but when comparing the Ford and GM ATF > fluids one was the equivalent of a 7W and the other a 10W. As long as you are > happy with the dampening action of lighter weight fork oils I can't see any > reason why you couldn't use ATF and save some money. > > Pat > G'ville, Nv >

Considering you change fork oil once a year, if that, the difference between $1.50/qt ATF and $8.95/qt doesn't mean all that much. But you might get longer seal life, smoother fork action, and less internal wear with the ATF. IF you like the ride with the lighter oil. Devon -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss

Wilsons Sandbox

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