Wilsons Sandbox
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http://www.frenchandlogan.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=52&t=237214
IIRC the lower subframe bolts are actually M8, like the pegs. The right side is 30mm, and the left (chain) side is 27mm long. If you put a 30mm in the left side without a washer, the chain can scrape it occasionally. I can't remember the upper bolt sizes offhand. Devon -- "It's a troublesome world, all the people who are in it, are troubled with troubles almost every minute" Dr. Seuss> > Greeting from the great Northwest, > Does anyone know the exact length of the M10 bolts need to beef up > my subframe hardware. I am lazy and do do want to pull the bike > apart just to find out the sizes. I do NOT want to purchase a kit > from any reatailer as I have acess to the proper bolts and would > like to make my own kit. Any help here would be appreciated. >
If you can't find the sizes and are too lazy to take your bike apart before hand, try subframe upgrade kit from Big Cee (www.bigcee.com). It's a great kit that includes cool blue bolts and the correct size drill bits for a very fair price that includes shipping. Chris Krok of Big Cee is an upstanding Lister, fountain of info, author of the FAQ, and doesn't toot his own horn, so I'm doing it for him. __Arden> Greeting from the great Northwest, > Does anyone know the exact length of the M10 bolts need to beef up > my subframe hardware. I am lazy and do do want to pull the bike > apart just to find out the sizes. I do NOT want to purchase a kit > from any reatailer as I have acess to the proper bolts and would > like to make my own kit. Any help here would be appreciated.
> Greeting from the great Northwest, > Does anyone know the exact length of the M10 bolts need to beef up > my subframe hardware. I am lazy and do do want to pull the bike > apart just to find out the sizes. I do NOT want to purchase a kit > from any reatailer as I have acess to the proper bolts and would > like to make my own kit. Any help here would be appreciated.
Stick an M10 in there and the nut will be too large to get a socket inside the subframe's lugs. That's why the kits have a spacer - to get the nut sticking out and accessable. If you *really* wanna do it yourself, try a 3/8" x 5.5" (grade 8) or somewhere thereabouts. I think the nut will be 9/16", and a 9/16" socket will fit in there--- I think (going on memory). RM>Greeting from the great Northwest, Does anyone know the exact length of >the M10 bolts need to beef up my subframe hardware. I am lazy and do do >want to pull the bike apart just to find out the sizes. I do NOT want to >purchase a kit from any reatailer as I have acess to the proper bolts and >would like to make my own kit. Any help here would be appreciated.
Or was it 7/16"?>If you *really* wanna do it yourself, try a 3/8" x 5.5" (grade 8) or >somewhere thereabouts. I think the nut will be 9/16", and a 9/16" socket >will fit in there--- I think (going on memory).
> --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "kitimatbcklr" > wrote: > > Greeting from the great Northwest, > > Does anyone know the exact length of the M10 bolts need to beef up > > my subframe hardware. I am lazy and do do want to pull the bike > > apart just to find out the sizes. I do NOT want to purchase a kit > > from any reatailer as I have acess to the proper bolts and would > > like to make my own kit. Any help here would be appreciated. > > If you can't find the sizes and are too lazy to take your bike apart > before hand, try subframe upgrade kit from Big Cee (www.bigcee.com). > It's a great kit that includes cool blue bolts and the correct size > drill bits for a very fair price that includes shipping. Chris Krok > of Big Cee is an upstanding Lister, fountain of info, author of the > FAQ, and doesn't toot his own horn, so I'm doing it for him. > > __Arden
the> OR > If'n it aint broken... order just the replacement bolts from Jake, > thats all I did.. no drilling or anything. Heck they are still in
and> pouch he sent them in.. one of these nights I will torque them in
cover> spot weld them to stay snug (just kidding) > > Not to sure on the prices for just bolts.. but im sure $10 will
Yo Dooden, they have been know to break, I've witnessed it first hand, and this is a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. When the upper bolts fail, it will take an easy out / left handed bit to get out the broken part. I don't know about you, but my tank panniers are too full of PCP, Jagermeister, Chinese throwing stars and handguns to fit a cordless drill and easy out set. Thanks CA Stu A13> the bolts and shipping, or something close. > > Dooden >
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Stu" wrote: > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > OR > > If'n it aint broken... order just the replacement bolts from Jake, > > thats all I did.. no drilling or anything. Heck they are still in > the > > pouch he sent them in.. one of these nights I will torque them in > and > > spot weld them to stay snug (just kidding) > > > > Not to sure on the prices for just bolts.. but im sure $10 will > cover > > the bolts and shipping, or something close. > > > > Dooden > > > > Yo Dooden, they have been know to break, I've witnessed it first > hand, and this is a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a > pound of cure. > > When the upper bolts fail, it will take an easy out / left handed bit > to get out the broken part. I don't know about you, but my tank > panniers are too full of PCP, Jagermeister, Chinese throwing stars > and handguns to fit a cordless drill and easy out set. > > Thanks > > CA Stu A13 > PS when I went to replace mine, one of the bolts was already broken, > I had no clue!
--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > To be honest, I thought Jake sent me these bolts as a joke, they are > pretty small. Its hard to imagine these 4 little bolts holding the > arse end on a 350 lbs machine. When I get around to sticking them in > I plan on getting them tight with locktite. > > > > > I am hoping just keeping them tight will be the end of it for me, > since I do not load the bike down with gear, I ride off road fairly > aggressive, but know the limits of the machine, not to mention > squeezing both the front and back into total compression tends to hurt > the old feet upon impact. (limped for a few days once, thought I broke > something for a bit) > > > > > But I could see where a solid (oversized) bolt would be tough as > gorilla snot compaired to the KHI compressed oatmeal bolts. > > > > > Dooden > > > > > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Stu" wrote: > > > > --- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Dooden" wrote: > > > > > OR > > > > > If'n it aint broken... order just the replacement bolts from Jake, > > > > > thats all I did.. no drilling or anything. Heck they are still in > > > > the > > > > > pouch he sent them in.. one of these nights I will torque them in > > > > and > > > > > spot weld them to stay snug (just kidding) > > > > > > > > > > Not to sure on the prices for just bolts.. but im sure $10 will > > > > cover > > > > > the bolts and shipping, or something close. > > > > > > > > > > Dooden > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yo Dooden, they have been know to break, I've witnessed it first > > > > hand, and this is a case where an ounce of prevention is worth a > > > > pound of cure. > > > > > > > > When the upper bolts fail, it will take an easy out / left handed > bit > > > > to get out the broken part. I don't know about you, but my tank > > > > panniers are too full of PCP, Jagermeister, Chinese throwing stars > > > > and handguns to fit a cordless drill and easy out set. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > > > > > CA Stu A13 > > > > > > > PS when I went to replace mine, one of the bolts was already broken, > > > > I had no clue!