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drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:13 pm
by ktmh53@aol.com
I was cleaning my chain w/ a 3sided brush and it got caught in the rear sprocket and broke the bruch and de-railed the chain. I put it back on adjusted via leveling the swingarm to get the max tightness then gave the chain 1/4 inch slack. I took the bike out for a test run, heard a clank/rub, clank/rub. I looked down and found the master link rubbing on the left mount bolt for the sub-frame. so I took off the rear wheel and inspected the rear sprocket for and bends-OK, checked the cush drive-OK,
After talking w/a few guys at work the theory is my chain is bent a little.
Should I
1-Replace=$$$
2-flip it over so it does not hit on the outside.
3-take the chain off and put on a level surface and dead-blow the chain back into shape?
Has this happened to anyone else? Not the stupid part but the repair part w/o any problems?
TIA
Kurt Thomas
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:23 pm
by Bogdan Swider
> I was cleaning my chain w/ a 3sided brush and it got caught in the rear
> sprocket and broke the bruch and de-railed the chain. I put it back on
> adjusted via leveling the swingarm to get the max tightness then gave
> the chain 1/4 inch slack. I took the bike out for a test run, heard a
> clank/rub, clank/rub. I looked down and found the master link rubbing
> on the left mount bolt for the sub-frame. so I took off the rear wheel
> and inspected the rear sprocket for and bends-OK, checked the cush
> drive-OK,
>
> After talking w/a few guys at work the theory is my chain is bent a
> little.
>
I'll let someone else address the bent chain thing; I've never
heard of it. I'm writing to say that you were lucky. You could have
trashed the countershaft instead. If I understand you correctly you
adjusted the chain way, way too tight. I push the chain up against the
bottom of the swing arme so it's about 1/16 " inch short of touching if
you push firmly but not with all the power you have.
Bogdan
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:36 pm
by kurt thomas
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Bogdan Swider"
wrote:
>
>
>
> > I was cleaning my chain w/ a 3sided brush and it got caught in
the rear
> > sprocket and broke the bruch and de-railed the chain. I put it
back on
> > adjusted via leveling the swingarm to get the max tightness then
gave
> > the chain 1/4 inch slack. I took the bike out for a test run,
heard a
> > clank/rub, clank/rub. I looked down and found the master link
rubbing
> > on the left mount bolt for the sub-frame. so I took off the rear
wheel
> > and inspected the rear sprocket for and bends-OK, checked the cush
> > drive-OK,
> >
> > After talking w/a few guys at work the theory is my chain is bent
a
> > little.
> >
> I'll let someone else address the bent chain thing; I've never
> heard of it. I'm writing to say that you were lucky. You could have
> trashed the countershaft instead. If I understand you correctly you
> adjusted the chain way, way too tight. I push the chain up against
the
> bottom of the swing arme so it's about 1/16 " inch short of
touching if
> you push firmly but not with all the power you have.
>
> Bogdan
I disconnected one of the links so the swingarm traveled freely(shock
was out of the loop) made the sprockets level/inline w/each other.
then gave 1/4 slack then let the rear wheel down and put the link
back together. I belive in this case(i could be wrong) I set the
slack when the swingarm is mid point between max bottom and max
topped out. (i think i said this right)
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:42 pm
by Ron Crandell
> > Bogdan
>
> I disconnected one of the links so the swingarm traveled freely
(shock
> was out of the loop) made the sprockets level/inline w/each other.
> then gave 1/4 slack then let the rear wheel down and put the link
> back together. I belive in this case(i could be wrong) I set the
> slack when the swingarm is mid point between max bottom and max
> topped out. (i think i said this right)
that sounds a lot better as your first description had us all
reaching for the keyboards. I just lean over the bike from the right
side, grab the swingarm and pull down (since my heads now dow, I
guess I'm really pulling up, aren't I??) until the swingarm is level,
or really when the chain is at it's tightest arc. That's where I
measure the free play. What you'll find is what was described
earlier, and that's that the chain will "almost" touch the swingarm
from the bottom with no weight on the bike.
Just my Monday $.03 worth.
Ron in MN
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 4:51 pm
by kurt thomas
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Crandell" wrote:
> > > Bogdan
> >
> > I disconnected one of the links so the swingarm traveled freely
> (shock
> > was out of the loop) made the sprockets level/inline w/each
other.
> > then gave 1/4 slack then let the rear wheel down and put the link
> > back together. I belive in this case(i could be wrong) I set the
> > slack when the swingarm is mid point between max bottom and max
> > topped out. (i think i said this right)
>
> that sounds a lot better as your first description had us all
> reaching for the keyboards. I just lean over the bike from the
right
> side, grab the swingarm and pull down (since my heads now dow, I
> guess I'm really pulling up, aren't I??) until the swingarm is
level,
> or really when the chain is at it's tightest arc. That's where I
> measure the free play. What you'll find is what was described
> earlier, and that's that the chain will "almost" touch the swingarm
> from the bottom with no weight on the bike.
>
> Just my Monday $.03 worth.
>
> Ron in MN
right so i do have the correct tension set, but i have side to side
play when i ride and it hits the left subframe bolt. that why i think
my chain is bent. the question is to replace or repair this think
now.
Kurt Thomas
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 5:24 pm
by Judson D. Jones
From what you've told us, I doubt very much whether your chain
is bent. Perhaps your rear wheel is cocked a little to the left.
Check your wheel alignment.
FWIW, I tension my chain with the bike at rest on the sidestand.
Then i pull the bottom run up against the swingarm. It should
just touch the swingarm, with the top run now pulled tight.
Essentially the same method as Ron Crandell's.
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, ktmh53@a... wrote:
> I was cleaning my chain w/ a 3sided brush and it got caught in
the rear sprocket and broke the bruch and de-railed the chain. I
put it back on adjusted via leveling the swingarm to get the max
tightness then gave the chain 1/4 inch slack. I took the bike out
for a test run, heard a clank/rub, clank/rub. I looked down and
found the master link rubbing on the left mount bolt for the
sub-frame. so I took off the rear wheel and inspected the rear
sprocket for and bends-OK, checked the cush drive-OK,
>
> After talking w/a few guys at work the theory is my chain is bent
a little.
>
> Should I
> 1-Replace=$$$
> 2-flip it over so it does not hit on the outside.
> 3-take the chain off and put on a level surface and dead-blow
the chain back into shape?
>
> Has this happened to anyone else? Not the stupid part but the
repair part w/o any problems?
>
> TIA
>
> Kurt Thomas
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 6:25 pm
by dooden
You were holding a 3 sided brush on the chain with the motor running
and in gear ?
BEEEeeeeeeJesus still got all your fingers ?
I would buy a chain myself, since if its bent and you run it like
that no doubt it will wear the sprokets and maybe depending on how
much it is bent might do other harm to the countershaft bearings or
seal.
Some have reported good luck with cheap chains and lots of WD40, or
other cleaning/lube stuff thats like it.
Dooden
Last count still has all fingers and thumbs, one finger is not
straight as it should be, but thats what ya get when you set them
yourself I suspose.
Arrrrrgh....
--- In
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, ktmh53@a... wrote:
> I was cleaning my chain w/ a 3sided brush and it got caught in the
rear sprocket and broke the bruch and de-railed the chain. I put it
back on adjusted via leveling the swingarm to get the max tightness
then gave the chain 1/4 inch slack. I took the bike out for a test
run, heard a clank/rub, clank/rub. I looked down and found the
master link rubbing on the left mount bolt for the sub-frame. so I
took off the rear wheel and inspected the rear sprocket for and bends-
OK, checked the cush drive-OK,
>
> After talking w/a few guys at work the theory is my chain is bent a
little.
>
> Should I
> 1-Replace=$$$
> 2-flip it over so it does not hit on the outside.
> 3-take the chain off and put on a level surface and dead-blow the
chain back into shape?
>
> Has this happened to anyone else? Not the stupid part but the
repair part w/o any problems?
>
> TIA
>
> Kurt Thomas
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 6:35 pm
by Guy B. Young II - COG Tech. Ed.
You said it before I did.
I can point the gent to a dude who was wiping the excess lube off the chain
of his GTS with a rag, engine running and in gear. He's now missing the
end parts of three fingers.
Personally, I ain't no saftey-crat. Done some, uh stupid, things in my
day, but I do draw a line.
Guy
At 11:25 PM 4/14/03 -0000, dooden wrote:
>You were holding a 3 sided brush on the chain with the motor running
>and in gear ?
>
>BEEEeeeeeeJesus still got all your fingers ?
>
drive chain help/bent?
Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2003 11:07 pm
by TM1669@cs.com
In a message dated 4/14/2003 5:50:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
ronc@... writes:
<< That's where I
measure the free play. >>
What could happen if the chain was too loose besides it coming off of the
sprockets? I think the chain reaches the bottom of the swingarm real easily
(suspension compressed). Its been like this for the past 2k seemingly w/out
negative results.
evil step father/son project
Posted: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:04 am
by Dan Pauley
> I found a 1978 TS-185 Suzuki at a yard sale, they want $400.00 for it, or best
> offer. I offered $200.00
I'd be hard pressed to give 'em $200. Not worth it. If my memory serves, you
are going to need, complete top end, piston, rings and possbibly bore cleaned
up. More than likely a crankshaft seal. Carb cleaning, All new cables. wheel
bearing, tires and tubes. chain and sprockets.
Just my humble opinion, a 100% pure dirt bike or race bike should be two
stroke. A woods, trail and some street should be a four stroke.
Watch e-bay for a KLR250, DR350, XT350, TTR-225, NX250. These are a few
versions of a much better deal. Understand you a looking at the worst possible
time. Everyone else is looking this time of year as well.
Keep checking e-bay for a small bike. Don't give $400 for anything you can't
ride home. What area of the country are you located?
Dan / \
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