Wilsons Sandbox

Go get a MityVac (available from Sears and elsewhere), or a set of speed bleeders. Drain the brake fluid, swap the lines, and then refill just like you are bleeding the brake lines. Now you know how to change the brake fluid in addition to having the new lines. Otherwise you'll probably pay for between 1/2 to 1 hour labor plus brake fluid. Eugene wrote:

> > > Hi All, > > Just got my new Gulfer brake lines and need an advise: > > If I will install them myself, I probably need to pump over brakes, does anyone > know where I can find instructions on it? Any special tools? > > If I decide to go to mechanics to change brake lines, what is the fair price

for

> that? > > Thanks, Eugene CA

I changed my lines out a week or so ago. I went with the speed bleeders and found them to work extremely well. It would definitely help if you would prime the lines as they recommend. I did not and it took a while to bleed the new rear line. I have heard comments about damaging the master cylinders with the repeated pumping required to bleed the lines. Frankly I did not worry about it. My bike is only about 18 months old with 5,200 miles at the time. I think the Galfer lines are awesome and really improve the brakes. Later, Bill in Cypress, Texas -----Original Message----- From: andy@... [mailto:andy@...] Sent: Tuesday, April 08, 2003 6:59 PM To: akm90046@... Cc: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Brake lines installation Go get a MityVac (available from Sears and elsewhere), or a set of speed bleeders. Drain the brake fluid, swap the lines, and then refill just like you are bleeding the brake lines. Now you know how to change the brake fluid in addition to having the new lines. Otherwise you'll probably pay for between 1/2 to 1 hour labor plus brake fluid. Eugene wrote:

> > > Hi All, > > Just got my new Gulfer brake lines and need an advise: > > If I will install them myself, I probably need to pump over brakes, does

anyone

> know where I can find instructions on it? Any special tools? > > If I decide to go to mechanics to change brake lines, what is the fair

price for

> that? > > Thanks, Eugene CA

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I also just installed the front steel brake line and do not have a MityVac so I put a 12" length of clear fuel line over the bleeder valve and sucked on it until I saw brake fluid entering the clear tubing. Fast and effective. Top up the master brake cylinder before reinstalling the cap. Be careful with the little phillips screws that hold the cap on...the heads are easily damaged. Richard Korpela A15

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, andy@a... wrote: > Go get a MityVac (available from Sears and elsewhere), or a set of speed > bleeders. Drain the brake fluid, swap the lines, and then refill just like you > are bleeding the brake lines. Now you know how to change the brake fluid in > addition to having the new lines. > > Otherwise you'll probably pay for between 1/2 to 1 hour labor plus brake fluid. > > Eugene wrote: > > > > > > Hi All, > > > > Just got my new Gulfer brake lines and need an advise: > > > > If I will install them myself, I probably need to pump over brakes, does anyone > > know where I can find instructions on it? Any special tools? > > > > If I decide to go to mechanics to change brake lines, what is the fair price > for > > that? > > > > Thanks, Eugene CA

On Wed, Apr 09, 2003 at 02:55:30AM -0000, kelpo2001 wrote:

> I also just installed the front steel brake line and do not have a > MityVac so I put a 12" length of clear fuel line over the bleeder > valve and sucked on it until I saw brake fluid entering the clear > tubing. Fast and effective. Top up the master brake cylinder before > reinstalling the cap. Be careful with the little phillips screws that > hold the cap on...the heads are easily damaged.

"easily damaged" is putting it lightly. I had to slot the head of one of mine with a chisel to *remove* it, and I'd never removed it before. This alone convinced me to buy the desmoparts fastener upgrade kit. Question: so, with the stainless front line -- bled very carefully, since I was sure I didn't have it quite bled all the way -- I have very firm lever feel, but there's noticeable lever drop before it starts, it seems like *more* lever drop than with the rubber line. Is this normal, or do I not quite have the line bled? Thor

In my earlier post, I failed to mention the master cylinder screw head debacle. The left screw on the front master cylinder cover came out OK. The right one did not. I tried a screw extractor and all it did was make a bigger hole in the screw. I ended up chiseling it out with a small screwdriver. Fortunately no damage to threads. I replaced both screws. My front brake lever goes down about 1/2" before it gets solid. I don't know how much it went down before, but I am confident that it was not less than that. The way I look at it, brake fluid is cheap, bleed the hell out of it. It doesn't use that much fluid. Good luck and hope you like your as much as I like mine. Any comments from the group on the Galfer "Green" brake pads? I am still running OEM pads, but am seriously thinking about changing. Bill in Cypress, Texas -----Original Message----- From: Thor Lancelot Simon [mailto:tls@...] Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 1:12 AM To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: Brake lines installation

On Wed, Apr 09, 2003 at 02:55:30AM -0000, kelpo2001 wrote: > I also just installed the front steel brake line and do not have a > MityVac so I put a 12" length of clear fuel line over the bleeder > valve and sucked on it until I saw brake fluid entering the clear > tubing. Fast and effective. Top up the master brake cylinder before > reinstalling the cap. Be careful with the little phillips screws that > hold the cap on...the heads are easily damaged. "easily damaged" is putting it lightly. I had to slot the head of one of mine with a chisel to *remove* it, and I'd never removed it before. This alone convinced me to buy the desmoparts fastener upgrade kit. Question: so, with the stainless front line -- bled very carefully, since I was sure I didn't have it quite bled all the way -- I have very firm lever feel, but there's noticeable lever drop before it starts, it seems like *more* lever drop than with the rubber line. Is this normal, or do I not quite have the line bled? Thor List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

The Galfer Green pads work great, but don't last very long, I think I got less than 7,000kms out of them. I course I was always "testing" the enhanced gripping power at every opportunity and much of that mileage was through swamps, sand dunes and creeks so you might get better mileage if you go easy on them. Bryan K A14

--- In DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com, "Kendoman" wrote: > In my earlier post, I failed to mention the master cylinder screw head > debacle. The left screw on the front master cylinder cover came out OK. The > right one did not. I tried a screw extractor and all it did was make a > bigger hole in the screw. I ended up chiseling it out with a small > screwdriver. Fortunately no damage to threads. I replaced both screws. > > My front brake lever goes down about 1/2" before it gets solid. I don't know > how much it went down before, but I am confident that it was not less than > that. The way I look at it, brake fluid is cheap, bleed the hell out of it. > It doesn't use that much fluid. > > Good luck and hope you like your as much as I like mine. > > Any comments from the group on the Galfer "Green" brake pads? I am still > running OEM pads, but am seriously thinking about changing. > > Bill in Cypress, Texas > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Thor Lancelot Simon [mailto:tls@r...] > Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2003 1:12 AM > To: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: Brake lines installation > > On Wed, Apr 09, 2003 at 02:55:30AM -0000, kelpo2001 wrote: > > I also just installed the front steel brake line and do not have a > > MityVac so I put a 12" length of clear fuel line over the bleeder > > valve and sucked on it until I saw brake fluid entering the clear > > tubing. Fast and effective. Top up the master brake cylinder before > > reinstalling the cap. Be careful with the little phillips screws that > > hold the cap on...the heads are easily damaged. > > "easily damaged" is putting it lightly. I had to slot the head of one > of mine with a chisel to *remove* it, and I'd never removed it before. > This alone convinced me to buy the desmoparts fastener upgrade kit. > > Question: so, with the stainless front line -- bled very carefully, since > I was sure I didn't have it quite bled all the way -- I have very firm > lever feel, but there's noticeable lever drop before it starts, it seems > like *more* lever drop than with the rubber line. > > Is this normal, or do I not quite have the line bled? > > Thor > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ > courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

> In my earlier post, I failed to mention the master cylinder screw head > debacle. The left screw on the front master cylinder cover came out OK. > The > right one did not. I tried a screw extractor and all it did was make a > bigger hole in the screw. >

Hi Bill, lots of people - including me - strip those screws no matter how carefull you are. I replaced mine with the hex jobs Jake sells. No trouble since. Bogdan

FW: SMILE TODAY If you yelled for 8 years, 7 months and 6 days you would have produced enough sound energy to heat one cup of coffee . (Hardly seems worth it.) If you farted consistently for 6 years and 9 months, enough gas is produced to create the energy of an atomic bomb. (Now that's more like it!) The human heart creates enough pressure when it pumps out to the body to squirt blood 30 feet. (O.M.G.!) A pig's orgasm lasts 30 minutes. (In my next life, I want to be a pig.) A cockroach will live nine days without its head before it starves to death. (Creepy.) (I'm still not over the pig.) Banging your head against a wall uses 150 calories an hour. (Do not try this at home...... maybe at work.) The male praying mantis cannot copulate while its head is attached to its body. The female initiates sex by ripping the male's head off. ("Honey, I'm home. What the....?!") The flea can jump 350 times its body length. It's like a human jumping the length of a football field. (30 minutes... lucky pig... can you imagine??) The catfish has over 27,000 taste buds. (What could be so tasty on the bottom of a pond?) Some lions mate over 50 times a day. (I still want to be a pig in my next life...quality over quantity) Butterflies taste with their feet. (Something I always wanted to know.) The strongest muscle in the body is the tongue. (Hmmmmmm........) Right-handed people live, on average, nine years longer than left-handed people. (If you're ambidextrous, do you split the difference?) Elephants are the only animals that cannot jump. (OK, so that would be a good thing....) A cat's urine glows under a black light. (I wonder who was paid to figure that out?) An ostrich's eye is bigger than its brain. (I know some people like that.) Starfish have no brains. (I know some people like that too.) Polar bears are left-handed. (If they switch, they'll live a lot longer.) Humans and dolphins are the only species that have sex for pleasure. (What about that pig??) Now that you've smiled at least once, it's your turn to send this to someone you want to bring a smile to (maybe even a chuckle)...in other words send it to everyone. __________________________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online, calculators, forms, and more http://tax.yahoo.com