sag
Posted: Mon Oct 07, 2002 9:34 am
David,
Thanks for the info, but you mention to "get the recommended sag
within specs". Unfortunately nowhere in the manual, can this spec be
found that I know of. However, a quick search of the Internet finds
that this is somewhat of subjective spec. Based on the opinion of the
tuner and whether the bike is used for street or off road. In your
opinion, what is a good compromise for the KLR that is used mostly
for street, but gets used occasionally on the trail?
Mark
A13
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., david gay wrote: > > DO NOT USE MOTOR OIL. Go to 20w fork oil, and you should notice a significant difference, at least until you can afford new spring. Also install spaces to preload the fork, and get the recommeded sag within specs, or use air pressure for the same reason since they are air forks. But use a low pressure pump, the seals can be easily blown with too high a pressure. > Also check smaller shop, some sell fork a lot cheaper. > Hope this helps, Dave > > > greenmachine_a13 wrote:Looking for an economical way to improve the front suspension. I know > replacing the fork springs is the right way to do it, but can't do > expense right now. As anyone found the right setup in oil weight, oil > level or adding spacers that will improve the stock front suspension? > Currently it seems OK on the street, but when I take it on the trail > the front end bottoms out occasionally with my 190lbs bod & gear. > > Also the factory manual calls out for SAE 10W20 (motor oil?) set to > 190mm with the forks fully compressed. Should I first try going to a > 10W30 motor oil or go with one of those pricey fork oils that is only > available in a single weight? > > Mark > a13 > > > > List sponsored by Dual Sport News at www.dualsportnews.com. List FAQ courtesy of Chris Krok at: www.bigcee.com/klr650faq.html > Unsubscribe by sending a blank message to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@y... . > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > --------------------------------- > Do you Yahoo!? > Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more > faith.yahoo.com > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
It has been stood for an extended period of time after a rebuild
by a Kawasaki mechanic ( he worked at Daytonas in Ruislip ) ,who
unfortunately died of cancer.
It has a Wiseco piston , Dynojet stage 1 and new valves , but has not been
run in yet since the build. Kicking it was a no go , as the battery hadn't
been charged for 18 months only got two goes on the button before it died.
Top end did dound a bit rattly, but this could be due to new valves not
being correctly set. Also it was impossible to kick , and a missing side
panel ended up with me gouging a chunk out of the back of my leg trying to
find TDC. The panel does exist somehere in a huge box of bits that comes
with it.
So okay , what other potential probs, things should I look for ?
Are there knobblies available for this model in the UK ? How much and how
easy is it to source consumables ? Will this perform on UK Green lanes ?
Okay the last one is relative, but as I have been told it may be too heavy
by people who find XL250's too heavy ! As I am six foot tall and allegedly
built like a brick outhouse I am in the habit of bodily picking the SO's XL
up when it gets in the way in the workshop.
Are there any decent english language websites on tuning and tips ? ( Only
been able to find German and Italian ones )
How easy is it to set valves and timing ?
Any others on this list within striking distance of North Hertfordshire ?
Okay enough of the questions !
Cheers
Scouse
banditrider.com ~ WhooHoo, abuse it 'til the valves bounce!
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Well as much as it can be ...
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (