Hi,
I understand that the CDi for a KLR600 (A) 1984 has a different part
number to say one for a KLR650.
HOWEVER, are the functional specifications the same? I.e. will one
from a 650 or 600 (B) work on a 600 (A)? I am having difficulty in
sourcing one for a 600 (A).
Any help will be much appreciated
Andries
the fasteners and the fuelious
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the fasteners and the fuelious
SHOULD, but don't need to be. If you're not working to aircraft specs, it's a myth generated by lockwasher companies to stay in business. I've always reused lockwashers unless they were rusty or deformed, and have never lost a bolt. As for the loctite, I don't clean the old loctite off before putting the new on, and have the opposite problem. The residue builds up and puts more grab on the screw. Every few times, I run a tap through the threads to clean them out.> From: "jimsherlock" > Subject: Re: KLR Fastening Hardware > > I'm curious to find out how many home mechanics know that lock washers of > all styles should be replaced after one use. Same goes for the self locking > nuts.
I don't think it's indended to do a _better_ job than the stock part (although the spring might be better, haven't seen it yet), but it will _always_ do the job of chain tensioning, whereas the stock one could self-destruct and not do any tensioning.> From: "pete88chester" > Subject: Results of doohickey installation on KLR > > What has been thr results of installing a Sagebrush Machine Shop > doohickey & new spring on the KLR650? Did it seem to do a better job > of removing the slack from the balancer chain & result in less > mechanical noice from the balancer mechanism?
That's the benefit.> I will probable > install one what ever the case because of the increased strength & > better design of Jake's doohickey.
I don't think the carb can actually suck any air in, it's only gravity feed. It's definitely fuel starvation, and maybe the carb is just draining the fuel line, rather than sucking air into it. What do you mean by, "All gas tank venting has been removed?" Did you cap the vent ports at the bottom of the tank, or leave them open? Have you checked the fuel cap venting passage? (If you've got both tank vents uncorked, this shouldn't matter, as the red line goes straight into the tank.) Try putting a hose on either vent, and blowing into it with the gas cap open to make sure there is air flow. Otherwise, take the petcock apart again and make sure everything is working right. Or, just set to "on," attach a fuel hose going into a gas can, and apply vacuum to the vacuum port and make sure fuel flows freely. Krokko -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok John Lucas Adaptive Wind Tunnel Caltech MS 205-45, Pasadena, CA 91125> From: "klr6501995" > Subject: air bubbles in (big) in fuel line > > Hello fellow killer650 riders, > I posted earlier but with incomplete info. And thank you for > the replies. > My 1995 klr650 seams to suck air into the fuel line and fuel filter.
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