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swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2002 6:42 am
by kg4bda650
Hi Folks,
Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if
any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this
task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine
Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for
this project.
Which pivot point gets the juice? all?
Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm
mount pivot or the engine case pivot?
Any info will be greatly appreciated!
Regards,
Peter
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Thu Jun 20, 2002 11:38 am
by cactus_reese
There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There were
a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the
lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of bearings
in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say that
all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had lube
on them after 10,000 miles.
The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner
sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment was
most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the
Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some
Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed
to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces.
Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals when
they pulled theirs apart.
The job is pretty straight forward.
1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I
used two jackstands.
2)Remove the rear wheel.
3)Remove the front sprocket cover.
4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible.
5)Remove the lower shock bolt.
6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not
interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the
same direction that they came out - head on left).
7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt.
8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out).
9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out with
much travail).
10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent and
others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you
clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I
avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack
knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them out
with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on the
Swingarm bearings.
11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final
torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the
engine mount.
There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a
website. Feel free to correct as you see fit.
-Bryan
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote:
> Hi Folks,
> Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering if
> any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this
> task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased Marine
> Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change) for
> this project.
> Which pivot point gets the juice? all?
> Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm
> mount pivot or the engine case pivot?
> Any info will be greatly appreciated!
> Regards,
> Peter
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Fri Jun 21, 2002 7:07 am
by Guest
Since it is going to be another rain-drenched weekend its ideal for these types
of maintenance projects.
Thanks for the advise. I feel pretty confident tackling this project
efficiently and effectively with the advise
from you and Bryan and others.
After I had my bike up on jackstands with help from my
wife and my little 4 yr old running around the garage; the whole thing didn't
look too secure.
To my arsenal of tools, I just added a hydraulic motorcycle jack purchased last
night
after dinner. It seems a worthwhile tool to have.
I'll post any new issues I come across to the list.
Thanks again,
Best Regards
Peter
|---------+--------------------------->
| | TM1669@... |
| | |
| | 06/20/2002 04:02|
| | PM |
| | |
|---------+--------------------------->
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
| |
| To: PEDRO.VALDES@... |
| cc: |
| Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Swingarm Lube Project - Help |
>-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------|
I just did mine last weekend. It really wasn't hard at all. I think the main
point of concern is the main swingarm pivot with the bolt that goes through
the back of the motor. It seems to corrode if left without lube. Also do the
suspension linkage while your there. There are needle bearings in all of the
pivot points that will need some grease. Just remove the bolts and pack some
grease into the bearing. Probably you should remove and clean the bearings
but Ive had some bad experiences with needle bearings so I decided to leave
them in for now. I just squeezed as much bearing grease in there as I could
and replaced the bolt.
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2002 10:24 pm
by caliphery
Hi,
Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the
swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went
reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a
lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how
this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a
valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.)
The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail.
* For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear
brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts
holding it in place.
* If you have lowering links, you have to remove them first before
removing the lower shock bolt.
* My links were somewhat tough to remove. A rubber mallet is very
useful for working these loose and also for beating on the various
bolts you have to remove to get the swingarm and unitrack off.
* Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again
after removing the swing arm bolt.
* Have a lot of clean rags or a roll of paper towels to wipe dirty
grease off parts.
* Have a good torque wrench which can easily crank out 72ft-lbs. Mine
was a bit lame and this made it more troublesome to tighten everything
in the end.
* While you're doing this procedure, you can take the opportunity to
install the improved shift lever you bought but never had time to put
on.
-C
A13 Keillor
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "cactus_reese" wrote:
> There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There
were
> a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the
> lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of
bearings
> in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say
that
> all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had
lube
> on them after 10,000 miles.
>
> The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner
> sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment
was
> most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the
> Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some
> Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed
> to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces.
>
> Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals
when
> they pulled theirs apart.
>
> The job is pretty straight forward.
> 1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I
> used two jackstands.
> 2)Remove the rear wheel.
> 3)Remove the front sprocket cover.
> 4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible.
> 5)Remove the lower shock bolt.
> 6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not
> interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the
> same direction that they came out - head on left).
> 7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt.
> 8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out).
> 9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out
with
> much travail).
> 10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent
and
> others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you
> clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I
> avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack
> knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them
out
> with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on
the
> Swingarm bearings.
> 11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final
> torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the
> engine mount.
>
> There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a
> website. Feel free to correct as you see fit.
>
> -Bryan
>
> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote:
> > Hi Folks,
> > Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering
if
> > any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this
> > task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased
Marine
> > Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change)
for
> > this project.
> > Which pivot point gets the juice? all?
> > Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm
> > mount pivot or the engine case pivot?
> > Any info will be greatly appreciated!
> > Regards,
> > Peter
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Mon Jul 08, 2002 10:24 pm
by caliphery
Hi,
Just spent about 6 hours running through the procedure for lubing the
swingarm and unitrack bearings, including clean-up, and it went
reasonably well. All bolts slid out pretty smoothly for me. It was a
lot of work and not at all what I'd call easy. Can anyone tell me how
this compares (in terms of time, effort, technical competence) with a
valve clearance check? (That's what I'm planning on doing next.)
The instructions below are good; I thought I'd add a bit more detail.
* For novices, to remove the rear wheel, you have to remove the rear
brake from its swingarm mounting by removing the two allen bolts
holding it in place.
* If you have lowering links, you have to remove them first before
removing the lower shock bolt.
* My links were somewhat tough to remove. A rubber mallet is very
useful for working these loose and also for beating on the various
bolts you have to remove to get the swingarm and unitrack off.
* Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again
after removing the swing arm bolt.
* Have a lot of clean rags or a roll of paper towels to wipe dirty
grease off parts.
* Have a good torque wrench which can easily crank out 72ft-lbs. Mine
was a bit lame and this made it more troublesome to tighten everything
in the end.
* While you're doing this procedure, you can take the opportunity to
install the improved shift lever you bought but never had time to put
on.
-C
A13 Keillor
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "cactus_reese" wrote:
> There should be info in the archives. Search on Unitrack. There
were
> a number of posts two weeks ago. I had the most trouble getting the
> lower Unitrack bolt out, not the swingarm. There are lots of
bearings
> in the unitrack system. They should all be lubed, but I must say
that
> all my seals were in place and all my bearings were clean and had
lube
> on them after 10,000 miles.
>
> The problem I had was the pivot bolts being rusted to the inner
> sleeves. That's where some kind of corrosion resistant treatment
was
> most necessary on my A12. The corrosion did not really affect the
> Unitrack operation, just the ability to take it apart. I used some
> Permatex Anti-Sieze stuff on the bolts and inner sleeves that seemed
> to fill-in and adhere to the rusted surfaces.
>
> Some have reported a lack of lubrication or missing bearing seals
when
> they pulled theirs apart.
>
> The job is pretty straight forward.
> 1) Support the bike under the skid plate to raise the rear wheel. I
> used two jackstands.
> 2)Remove the rear wheel.
> 3)Remove the front sprocket cover.
> 4)Clean the Unitrack as much as possible.
> 5)Remove the lower shock bolt.
> 6)Remove the links (there is a left and right link that are not
> interchangeable and make sure you put the bolts in these links the
> same direction that they came out - head on left).
> 7)Loosen the lower rear engine mount bolt.
> 8)Remove the swingarm bolt ( may need to tap it out).
> 9)Remove the main (lower) Unitrack bolt (may need to beat it out
with
> much travail).
> 10)Some say clean all old grease off of the bearings with solvent
and
> others (Fred) says just slather more grease in over the old. If you
> clean with solvent, don't get solvent on the seals. I did a mix. I
> avoided punching the bearings out by dropping the entire Unitrack
> knuckle assembly (less seals) in a can of solvent, then blew them
out
> with canned air. Then I just slathered new grease over the old on
the
> Swingarm bearings.
> 11) Put back together in reverse order, but don't do the final
> torquing untill its all reassembled. Don't forget to tighten the
> engine mount.
>
> There I did it. A step-by-step procedure someone can post on a
> website. Feel free to correct as you see fit.
>
> -Bryan
>
> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "kg4bda650" wrote:
> > Hi Folks,
> > Scoping out the Swingarm Lube Project last night; I was wondering
if
> > any of member of the Collective has posted any procedures on this
> > task. My archieve search came back empty. I have purchased
Marine
> > Grade Aluminum Complex Grease, (cheap about 2 bucks and change)
for
> > this project.
> > Which pivot point gets the juice? all?
> > Which of the pivots is the one giving all th trouble, the swingarm
> > mount pivot or the engine case pivot?
> > Any info will be greatly appreciated!
> > Regards,
> > Peter
swingarm lube project - help
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 8:06 am
by Zachariah Mully
On Mon, 2002-07-08 at 23:24, caliphery wrote:
> Hi,
> * Loosen the motor mount a lot, or you'll have to loosen it again
> after removing the swing arm bolt.
>
>
> -C
>
> A13 Keillor
C-
I'd make one recommendation for the procedure. If you've loosen the
rear motor mount to remove the swingarm, then when you're replacing it,
you should follow the motor mount tightening sequence as described in
the shop manual. If you don't, it might cause the bike to vibrate more.
Z
DC
nklr: suzuki oil/air cooling
Posted: Tue Jul 09, 2002 5:32 pm
by Devon Jarvis
As someone who habitually lanesplits, I respectfully point out that if
you couldn't spot the trooper ahead of time, you weren't paying enough
attention to your surroundings to be safely lanesplitting.
Though whatever you were doing, you were doing it safely enough or he
would have definitely written you a ticket.
When it's not legal, lanesplitting is generally enforced at the whim of
the local police. I've been warned but never ticketed.
Devon
InWoods13@... wrote:
>
>
> Would love to be able to split legally, It'd save Loads of time in the right
> situations. Last time I tried a wee minor lane share here, I was immediately
> nabbed by a trooper. He ended up being cool about it though, and let me off
> with a warning, & a "ride safe". -Scott
>
> A14 "thunderdog"
> Sorrento, Fl
>