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bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 9:01 am
by Robert J. Kaub
This procedure could apply to our KLRs.
I'll test it soon when I put the bike back on the road.
I inherited a very high mileage Honda Civic and am generally going over it
to bring it up to snuff.
I has a manual transmission with a hydraulically actuated clutch. The brake
fluid in the clutch master cylinder is black and has never been changed.
This is a very simple and easy to work-on car. The master cylinder and
clutch actuation cylinder are right in front of you. I had an idea. Rather
than go through some complex bleeding procedure, why not let the brake fluid
just drip out of the bleed screw in the clutch actuation cylinder, while
watching and adding to the clutch master fluid level as necessary, until the
fluid dripping out of the bleed screw was clean.
I did just that. It took about 1/2 a can of brake fluid until the fluid was
clear. Clutch works great.
I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
Anyway, I think that the front and rear brake lines on the KLR can be
flushed the same way. Very simple and no special tools or parts required.
Thanks.
Bob Kaub
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 9:19 am
by Bogdan Swider
> I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
> Anyway, I think that the front and rear brake lines on the KLR can be
> flushed the same way. Very simple and no special tools or parts required.
> Thanks.
> Bob Kaub
>
>
Yeah, that method works on the klr too. Glad to see you gave your
toilet the needed Spring maintenance to keep it flushing smooth. Bogdan
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 2:19 pm
by Dean Woodward
"Robert J. Kaub" wrote:
>
> I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
Why not put it in with your used motor oil and take it
to a local auto parts store? Or is that too much work, too?
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 2:33 pm
by Mark
At 1:16 PM -0700 3/26/01, Dean Woodward wrote:
>"Robert J. Kaub" wrote:
>>
>> I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
>
> Why not put it in with your used motor oil and take it
>to a local auto parts store? Or is that too much work, too?
He flushes the motor oil too.
; )
Mark
B2
A2
A3
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 2:35 pm
by michael.scherer@usbank.com
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Dean Woodward wrote:
> "Robert J. Kaub" wrote:
> >
> > I flushed the used brake fluid down the toilet.
>
> Why not put it in with your used motor oil and take it
> to a local auto parts store? Or is that too much work, too?
Bob was kidding about the toilet. It is an old running joke on the
list.
Dude, don't be puttin' used brake fluid in with your used oil. It
ain't cool.
Biker Mike
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Mar 26, 2001 3:48 pm
by k650dsn@aol.com
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., michael.scherer@u... wrote:
ist.
>
> Dude, don't be puttin' used brake fluid in with your used oil. It
> ain't cool.
>
> Biker Mike
He's right. Save it and use it as weed killer.
Gino
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2001 9:43 am
by thahair@yahoo.com
As a lurker on this list (XR owner but enjoy the info on the KLR)and
having spent quite a bit of time bleeding brakes on my different BMWs
and the owner of a Mitey Vac. I will say that its an ok way to do it.
However I have yet to find a simpler and easier (also cheap) way than
speedbleeders. (
www.speedbleeders.com) It is difficult to keep a
Mitey VAc from allowing air to get in around the bleed nipple. With
the speedbleeders I can bleed the brakes (even with ABS on my GS) in
15 to 20 minutes start to finish. They are extremely easy to install.
One other thing that I have done that might be helpful is the use of
PVC pipe in place of a Motion Pro stand (the extension one that sells
for $29). I took 2 pieces of PVC , one an 1 1/4 and the other 1 inch.
Drilled the 1 inch with a series of holes at 90 degrees from each
other and put 4 holes in the sides of the 1 1/4 inch piece. Then put
a cap on one end of each pipe and slid the 1 inch inside the larger
one. I then have a small piece of steel rod that I use to insert
through the holes. This allows you to extend the inner pipe to just
about any length you need. (each pipe is approx. 14 inches long). I
use this on the road to lift the bike to adjust the chain or oil it.
It is very light weight and easy to carry. If a couple of folks went
together it would be really cheap. (10 ft of pipe sells for $3.95)
I am unable to get mail through the subscribe name above (not that I
need any) so if anyone has a question just drop me a note at
jhair02@... I will be happy to reply. jim hair ,
Rogersville, Mo.
bleeding brakes
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2001 10:36 am
by david.smith@semflex.com
Ok here is what worked to finally get my brakes bleed. I removed the
master cylinder from the handler bars and held it straight up. So the
Brake line was a straight shot from the Caliper to the master
cylinder. Squezzed the brake lever a few times and wha la solid brake
lever. Definately air trap and unable to escape thru normal bleeding.
All suggestions were good and probably any number would have worked.
Thanks for the help.
P.S. No first snow still wear'in shorts (not while riding) here in
arizona.
bleeding brakes
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2001 8:34 am
by Multifunction-ES@Bigfoot.com
> However I have yet to find a simpler and easier (also cheap) way
> than speedbleeders. (
www.speedbleeders.com) It is difficult to
> keep a Mitey VAc from allowing air to get in around the bleed
> nipple. With the speedbleeders I can bleed the brakes (even with
> ABS on my GS) in 15 to 20 minutes start to finish. They are
> extremely easy to install.
I have never heard of Speedbleeders, I went to the website and
checked them out - A simple and elegant solution to brake bleeding,
I'm gonna get me a set right away.
By the way the address is -
http://www.speedbleeder.com the above
address has an extra "s" in it.
Later,
Ed Snow
2001 KLR650
"Zoom Zoom"
bleeding brakes
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2001 9:22 am
by Devon Jarvis
I had speedbleeders on my '85 XJ700. They are definitely the easiest
solution for bleeding brakes, but ONLY after the master cylinder is
bled. If you have an air bubble trapped in the MC you can pump for an
hour before you get enough pressure up to start really moving fluid.
Once the MC is pumping you can flush your brakes with new fluid in
minutes.
A mityvac is also nice when you have a vacuum-powered petcock and/or
scottoiler, and need to check if things are working. Or, if you need to
drain the tank without removing it and turning it upside down.
Devon
Multifunction-ES@... wrote: