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charging problem
Posted: Wed May 22, 2002 7:38 am
by biffy9lanky13
I have just returned from a week touring Ireland on my Tengai. The
first day consisted of a 220 miles motorway trip to the Liverpool
ferry and a similar amount from Dublin to Galway.
On arriving at Galway the headlight was very dim, even when revving
up and it just started up (flat..ish battery)
The next day it started ok and ran fine for the next 3 days, although
I did buy a set of jump leads just in case.
On the final day the bike only just started and I had to be jumped
off in the petrol station on the motorway journey home.
Well, the trip was great, but what's up with the bike??
When revving the bike the voltage on the white wire on the R/R stays
constant at the same voltage as the battery.
If the Brown / White wire is disconnected from the R/R the bike
charges, The voltage goes up to 13+ v and the lights get brighter. If
the wire is then reconnected the voltage on the white wire returns to
12v.
The three wires from the Magneto all show 12v and if the white wire
is disconnected the voltage on the terminal goes to over 30+ V
There is a 1.2K ohm short to earth on the Brown /White terminal on
the R/R.
My question is is the R/R knackered
The first day in Ireland was very warm and the heater fan was kicking
in.
My idea is that, the R/R stopped working because of the heat, damage
was caused but it was not terminal, clearing up when the bike cooled
overnight. And it gave up for good on the second to last day.
Your comments would be much appreciated and if you ever get the
chance to tour Ireland I can confirm that the Guinness is as good as
they say and the roads are as bad.
Thank a lot
Rick
charging problem
Posted: Wed May 22, 2002 8:28 am
by ridecaptan
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "biffy9lanky13" wrote:
> I have just returned from a week touring Ireland on my Tengai. The
> first day consisted of a 220 miles motorway trip to the Liverpool
> ferry and a similar amount from Dublin to Galway.
>
> On arriving at Galway the headlight was very dim, even when
revving
> up and it just started up (flat..ish battery)
>
> The next day it started ok and ran fine for the next 3 days,
although
> I did buy a set of jump leads just in case.
>
> On the final day the bike only just started and I had to be jumped
> off in the petrol station on the motorway journey home.
>
> Well, the trip was great, but what's up with the bike??
>
> When revving the bike the voltage on the white wire on the R/R
stays
> constant at the same voltage as the battery.
>
> If the Brown / White wire is disconnected from the R/R the bike
> charges, The voltage goes up to 13+ v and the lights get brighter.
If
> the wire is then reconnected the voltage on the white wire returns
to
> 12v.
>
> The three wires from the Magneto all show 12v and if the white
wire
> is disconnected the voltage on the terminal goes to over 30+ V
>
> There is a 1.2K ohm short to earth on the Brown /White terminal on
> the R/R.
>
> My question is is the R/R knackered
>
> The first day in Ireland was very warm and the heater fan was
kicking
> in.
>
> My idea is that, the R/R stopped working because of the heat,
damage
> was caused but it was not terminal, clearing up when the bike
cooled
> overnight. And it gave up for good on the second to last day.
>
> Your comments would be much appreciated and if you ever get the
> chance to tour Ireland I can confirm that the Guinness is as good
as
> they say and the roads are as bad.
>
> Thank a lot
>
> Rick
Bring your battery to a shop and have them check it. Or, if you have
a battery charger, charge the battery for a few hours and then check
the battery under load. Do this by reconnecting the battery. Then
turn the key to the start position so the lights are on. Check the
battery voltage, it should be 12VDC. If not, your battery is bad.
Ed A15
charging problem
Posted: Wed May 22, 2002 9:10 am
by Jake Jakeman
Most of the time, a problem like the one you've described isn't the fault of
the battery: it's corrosion where the cable lugs seat against the battery
terminals. The battery and it's related circuit paths are low-tech and high
maintenance. On an electric start only bike, time spent on the little
things is well spent. I'm not talking about the white, powdery junk on the
terminals; that's way past the corrosion problem. It's the grey color of
the terminals, combined with the brown color of the cable lugs. It doesn't
take much resistance to turn back 12 volts. Best to shine the terminals and
lugs whenever you service the battery, and apply a little Vaseline or
Molygraph grease to the point of contact at reassembly. That way, the
battery will get something from the charging system. I cover this topic on
my website.
Jake
You're welcome to visit my website at:
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charging problem
Posted: Wed May 22, 2002 9:52 am
by Ted Palmer
Jake Jakeman wrote:
[...]
> Best to shine the terminals and
> lugs whenever you service the battery, and apply a little Vaseline or
> Molygraph grease to the point of contact at reassembly.
[...]
Vaseline is conductive?
Mister_T
Melbourne Australia
charging problem
Posted: Wed May 22, 2002 10:00 am
by Devon Jarvis
No, you wouldn't want conductive grease.
Shiny, unoxidised metal-to-metal contact is very conductive, and a
non-conductive grease prevents electrolytic corrosion of the battery
terminals and wire ends. It also keeps moisture and air away.
Di-electric tune-up grease (has lots of silicone in it) is maybe even
better.
Devon
A15
Ted Palmer wrote:
>
> Jake Jakeman wrote:
> [...]
> > Best to shine the terminals and
> > lugs whenever you service the battery, and apply a little Vaseline or
> > Molygraph grease to the point of contact at reassembly.
> [...]
>
> Vaseline is conductive?
>
> Mister_T
> Melbourne Australia
>
charging problem
Posted: Thu May 23, 2002 9:09 am
by Ted Palmer
Devon Jarvis wrote:
> No, you wouldn't want conductive grease.
Ok, it's only a hundred amps or so.
> Shiny, unoxidised metal-to-metal contact is very conductive, and a
> non-conductive grease prevents electrolytic corrosion
Is that electrolytic corrosion or galvanic corrosion?
> of the battery
> terminals and wire ends. It also keeps moisture and air away.
>
> Di-electric tune-up grease (has lots of silicone in it) is maybe even
> better.
Metal-metal contact is nice, metal-dielectric-metal is better?
If all you want is something that insulates and keeps moisture and
air away, hit everything with spray paint before assembly.
Mister_T
Melbourne Australia
deal's gap nklr
Posted: Fri May 24, 2002 5:33 am
by Miata Myk
> I hear that the Miatas are going to take over Deal's Gap the last week of
> July.
Every year we do.
(hence Miata Myk)