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				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sat May 11, 2002 8:26 pm
				by bkowalca
				Offroad Riding Tips
 
 It is important to maximize the positive aspects (huge torque) of 
 the KLR and minimize the negative (huge weight)
 
 1) Ride fast - Keep a good pace through the rough stuff. The 1980's 
 suspension is good enough for this. I think the stock front sprocket 
 is actually a benefit since the tall gearing forces you to move 
 along quickly. This allows the momentum of the machine to plough 
 through or over just about anything.
 
 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on pretty 
 tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you want. 
 Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your 
 squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it.
 
 3) Riding in Mud/Water - Keep your weight centered or back and keep 
 on the gas. The bike has enough power that it will not stall in the 
 mud. If you are riding through ruts, don't even bother to ride down 
 the high spot in the middle of the track. You are going to end up in 
 the deepest rut anyway so might head for it straight away. If you 
 ride the top and the front or back slide into the rut (it always 
 will) you are in a tough situation being sidways on the track, you 
 can easily get stuck or fall over.
 
 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As 
 soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy 
 around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction 
 of the front wheel.
 
 5) Riding up hills - The bike has enough torque to climb any hill 
 from a dead stop. Keep the revs above 2000 and you can climb 
 anything. Its fun to practice going as SLOW as you can up a hill. On 
 the way up keep you weight centered to keep the front down, and the 
 back planted for traction. On the way down, keep your weight way 
 back to keep the front from digging in.
 
 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although it 
 may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I haven't 
 been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope for the 
 best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front end up. 
 The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle 
 response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible.
 
 6) Practice - Find an area with some tough terrain and practice 
 doing different things, up hills, down hills, over logs, navigating 
 ruts etc. You will be suprised how quickly you will learn to 
 overcome things that seemed impossible an hour ago.
 
 7) Fall on the right side or get a rad guard - If you fall on the 
 left, you risk damage to the expensive radiator and a long walk 
 home. The right side is just a plastic coolant expansion tank that 
 already is surrounded by metal tubing. 
 
 8) Consider upgrades - Front Progressive springs are a great deal. 
 Knobby tires certainly help off-road. A stainless braided brake line 
 greaty helps with the front brake feel and responsiveness. A rear 
 spring/shock upgrade can be expensive but some say this is the best 
 upgrade. A rad guard and skid plate are good investments.
 
 Bryan K
 A14
 
			 
			
					
				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sat May 11, 2002 8:54 pm
				by guymanbro
				OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different strokes 
 for different folks, right?) See below
 
 
 --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca"  wrote:
 > 
 > 
 > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on 
 pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you 
 want. >
 
 Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold on 
 the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into 
 disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose!
 
 > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your 
 > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it.
 
 Fully agree with that.
 
 > 
 > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As 
 > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy 
 > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction 
 > of the front wheel.>
 
 Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping my 
 weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in the 
 sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight 
 lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and les 
 prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface.
  
 > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although 
 it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I 
 haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope 
 for the  best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front 
 end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle 
 > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible.
 
 
 I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the front 
 end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with proper 
 weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end over 
 as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the mighty 
 KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes my 
 face gets put down though!).
 
 I agree with everything else you said though.
 
 dat brooklyn bum 
 
			 
			
					
				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sat May 11, 2002 11:08 pm
				by Ian S.
				Your advice is great in my opinion excpet two things.
 	*When in sand, I find it beneficial to keep weight far BACK, except when
 cornering. (guymanbro also thinks this is better)
 	*Keep a somewhat loose grip on the bars, except when heading over large
 rocks or ruts. Exerting a lot of energy gripping the bars is a waste.
 (again, guymanbro made this point)
 	*Oh, and being in shape isnt a big factor in my opinion. Enjoy those big
 macs! I only say this because im not in shape. and i wish i was. 

 ** Enjoy and utilize the big power of the 650, thats the only thing the
 bikes got in the dirt over the 400's and 250's. 

 
 	Ian A7
 
 
 -----Original Message-----
 From: guymanbro [mailto:guymanbro@...]
 Sent: Saturday, May 11, 2002 6:55 PM
 To: 
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [DSN_klr650] Off-Road Riding on a KLR - was Re: NKLR Off road
 riding tips
 
 
 OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different strokes
 for different folks, right?) See below
 
 
 --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca"  wrote:
 >
 >
 > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on
 pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what you
 want. >
 
 Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold on
 the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into
 disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose!
 
 > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your
 > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it.
 
 Fully agree with that.
 
 >
 > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. As
 > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy
 > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the direction
 > of the front wheel.>
 
 Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping my
 weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in the
 sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight
 lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and les
 prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface.
 
 > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. Although
 it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I
 haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a hope
 for the  best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front
 end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb throttle
 > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible.
 
 
 I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the front
 end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with proper
 weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end over
 as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the mighty
 KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes my
 face gets put down though!).
 
 I agree with everything else you said though.
 
 dat brooklyn bum
 
 
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				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sun May 12, 2002 7:19 am
				by bkowalca
				I agree with keeping loose on the bars but after your 100th whoop, 
 you need some strength in your upper body just to be able to hang 
 on. Another example, I was going down a large hill slowly with 
 maximum rear brake and alot of front brake, it took a suprisingly 
 amount of force to keep the bars straight and your wieght back on 
 the seat.
 
 It's funny about the sand, I had exactly the opposite experience you 
 guys had. Last weekend was my first expereince in deep sand. We 
 where going fast down some abandoned rail lines which had some heavy 
 sand sections. The first couple sections I hit scared the crap outa 
 me. I had my weight back, let off the gas to take it easy, the bike 
 was sliding everywhere (I was probably in third gear). As soon as I 
 sat up on the tank and kept on the gas the bike tracked straight. 
 There was a few sections like this so I had several chances to test 
 this theory. I'm sure I would have been in the trees if I kept my 
 weight back, which is usually the natural reaction to encountering a 
 rough spot.
 
 I seem to recall my old RM250 behaved the same way, where ever you 
 pointed the front wheel the bike would go, while the back is sliding 
 everywhere. I think this is the only thing these two bikes have in 
 common, which seemed to be the root of my frustration for riding off-
 road on the mighty KLR. I had to relearn everything since the riding 
 style is completely different than a smaller dirtbike.
 
 
 --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "guymanbro"  wrote:
 > OK I got a coupla nitpicks with your pointers (but different 
 strokes 
 > for different folks, right?) See below
 > 
 > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca"  wrote:
 > > 
 > > 
 > > 2) Get Fit - When the going gets rough you will be holding on 
 > pretty tight and pushing pretty hard to get the bike to do what 
 you 
 > want. >
 > 
 > Shouldn't ever be holding on tight in my experience. A loose hold 
 on 
 > the bars keeps your nervous energy from being transmitted into 
 > disatrous response from the bike. Stay loose!
 > 
 > > Good physical fitness is the key to a good ride. Practice your 
 > > squats, you'll need it to pick up the beast after you drop it.
 > 
 > Fully agree with that.
 > 
 > > 
 > > 4) Riding in Sand - Keep your wieght forward, keep on the gas. 
 As 
 > > soon as you let off the gas you can feel the bike start to shimy 
 > > around. If you stay on the power, the bike will go in the 
 direction 
 > > of the front wheel.>
 > 
 > Huh? The KLR is pretty well endowed up front. I find that keeping 
 my 
 > weight BACK not forward helps with the KLR. Now when cornering in 
 the 
 > sand, definitely move your weight more forward, but for straight 
 > lining it, keeping the weight back keeps the front end light and 
 les 
 > prone to getting twitchy with variations in the sand surface.
 >  
 > > 6) Over Logs - Always cross at a right angle to the log. 
 Although 
 > it may be possible to use the clutch to pop the front end up, I 
 > haven't been able to do it practically so just hit it dead on a 
 hope 
 > for the  best. Don't even try to use the throttle to get the front 
 > end up. The combination of heavy front end, lack of CV carb 
 throttle 
 > > response and high flywheel intertia make this next to impossible.
 > 
 > 
 > I find a blip of the throttle before hitting the log gets the 
 front 
 > end light enough to bounce it up and over the log. Then with 
 proper 
 > weight shifting (timing is everything) you can roll the back end 
 over 
 > as well. I have done this over logs that are taller than the 
 mighty 
 > KLR's 9" ground clearance without putting a foot down (sometimes 
 my 
 > face gets put down though!).
 > 
 > I agree with everything else you said though.
 > 
 > dat brooklyn bum 
 
			 
			
					
				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sun May 12, 2002 9:29 am
				by guymanbro
				--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "bkowalca"  wrote:
 
 > I agree with keeping loose on the bars but after your 100th whoop, 
 > you need some strength 
 
  
Strength is good, just don't force things is all I mean.
 
 
 > 
 > It's funny about the sand, I had exactly the opposite experience you 
 > guys had. Last weekend was my first expereince in deep sand. We 
 > where going fast down some abandoned rail lines which had some heavy 
 > sand sections. The first couple sections I hit scared the crap outa 
 > me. I had my weight back, let off the gas to take it easy, the bike 
 > was sliding everywhere (I was probably in third gear). As soon as I 
 > sat up on the tank and kept on the gas the bike tracked straight. 
 
  
Yup that's the difference. Just like water or deep mud, you gotta stay 
 on the gas while the weight is back . If you're braking or cornering, 
 then shift the wweight forward so the front wheel will guide you.
 
 See, we are all in agreement.  :^) What were the chances of that?
 
 dat brooklyn bum
 
			 
			
					
				off-road riding on a klr - was nklr  off road riding tips
				Posted: Sun May 12, 2002 10:14 am
				by ridecaptan
				--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Ian S."  wrote:
 
 >> ** Enjoy and utilize the big power of the 650, thats the only 
  
thing the
 
 > bikes got in the dirt over the 400's and 250's. 
 
  
Your right Ian, the torque does come in handy. I'm still learning as 
 I have only been back into dirt riding after a long absence from it. 
 I got into some deep mud the day before, and it made things 
 interesting with the Trailwings.
 
 Ed A15
 
 
 > 
 > 	Ian A7
 > 
  
docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
 
			 
			
					
				anybody else hate the looks of the stock fairing?
				Posted: Sun May 12, 2002 1:45 pm
				by alaska_rider
				--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "Walter Lesnowich"  wrote:
 
 > > I replied to this earlier but it must not have gone through. The 
 > > weight reduction is something I didn't think about and that would 
  
be 
 
 > > a nice benefit of removing it. I checked buykawasaki.com for a 
  
parts 
 
 > > daigram of the headlight/numberplate that comes on the Canadian 
  
KLR 
 
 > > 650C but I didn't have any luck. I wonder if the KLX 650 one 
  
would 
 
 > > work? I don't know what kind of guages it came with? Maybe the 
  
same 
 
 > > as the KLR?
 > > 
 > > Maybe you could post some pictures when you get your bike set up 
  
with 
 
 > > the aftermarket guage cluster?
 > > 
 > 
 > A while back while looking at pictures of the USMC KLR650
 > it appeared to use the fairing from the KLR250.  Then checking
 > out 
www.buykawasaki.com parts diagrams I found the headlight
 > and most of it's brackets to be in common between the 650 and
 > 250.  So if you like the 250 fairing it may be an easy swap with
 > stock parts.
 > 
 > Walt
 > A14 "War Horse"
 
 
  
Thanks Walt, I'm going to check into doing that. The nice thing is 
 that the colors would match and it would look factory. This site is 
 awesome!
 Scott