Wilsons Sandbox

Steve- If you suspect that the wear on the slide is causing it to bind, you can always go to your local HD dealer and see if a replacement slide can be found there. With the number of HD idiots (like my brother) who insist on replacing the CVK40 with something else expensive, I bet the dealers will have a couple spare CVK40's lying around that they'd be happy to make a little money off of. As I stated in a previous post, I don't think that the vacuum ports are the same on the HD slide, but if you can look at one, you might be able to drill it out to match the KLR slide. Looking the archives for stuff from either David Kelly or Dan Paulsen, I know that one of them used an HD slide in their KLX, or at least attempted to. Z DC P.S. Found my original post about the diaphragm: It was David Kelly (thanks man!), corrections to the post are in []'s. Ron Ayers wants $85 for the Big K part no 43028-1062.

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>August 16, 2001>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Hey all- David Kelly (rider of a KLX650 and member of both the KLR and KLX lists) found the following replacement slide/diaphram for our CVK40 carbs: (reposted with his permission) 'The H-D part which fits but has a smaller [vacuum port] is 27585-88 "Vacuum piston, carb, XLH883/1". $38.75.' You'll need to drill out the [vacuum port] on this one as it has a smaller needle hole, but isn't a drill bit included with the DynoJet kit? If not, does anyone know of the proper size bit for this? This might be something that Fred could stock a couple of This is cheap in comparison to the original KHI part ($100+ I do believe).

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Tue, 2002-04-30 at 10:21, Steve Anderson wrote: > While riding a couple of weeks ago, everything is running spot on, and we > are bouncing through some kind of rough stuff. All of a sudden the bike > just won't pull itself at all. It's idling fine, but as soon as I try to > put a load on it, it just stumbles with any application of throttle. Fuel > flow is fine and there is no problem with tank or carb venting. I take the > carb apart and everything looks fine. I put it back together and it runs > fine all the way to half throttle but I can turn the throttle more and get > absolutely no response. > > I limp home and really tear into the carb and clean it to the umpteenth > detail. Everything is fine for about a thousand miles. This weekend I'm on > a long overnighter running up a steep mountain and the thing suddenly does > the same thing. Any load at all and it won't run above idle. It idles > fine, but in neutral it will run up to about 5Krpm and then it sputters like > crazy and surges. This time I grab the screwdriver, and before I go tearing > into it, in my frustration beat pretty hard on the side of it with the > screwdriver. ...It ran fine the rest of the trip... > > This is not a real comfortable thing, 'cus it will almost certainly happen > again. My best guess is that the slide isn't raising for some reason or > another (sticking?). The "ears" on the slide had a fair bit of wear marks > and I'm tempted to smooth it up with some fine emery cloth. I have about > 27Kmi on the bike. I don't really want to buy another carb, but... > > > Steve A. in AZ >

If I have to end up replacing the carb, I definitely intend to investigate using a hardley carb. There are plenty of those guys out here in AZ. I'm just guessing the slide is binding; wondering if anyone can lend credence to this theory. It also may not be lifting for some other reason, but I really looked hard at it when I had it apart last time and can't imagine why; the diaphragm is fine, and I can't imagine why it would be intermittent if it was something else. It certainly could be something else all together too. Float level is also fine and when I remove the carb there is no indication of binding; it moves up and down freely. Next time I have it off, I may try to see how smoothly it slides if I push forward on it like I'm certain happens when the engine is sucking on it. The wear is only on the front of the slide. It is so strange; it just happens with absolutely no warning and aside form the wear marks on the slide, the carb looks fine when I take it apart. Steve A. in AZ From: "Zachariah Mully" Sent: Tuesday, 30 April, 2002 7:47

> Steve- > If you suspect that the wear on the slide is causing it to bind, you > can always go to your local HD dealer and see if a replacement slide can > be found there. With the number of HD idiots (like my brother) who > insist on replacing the CVK40 with something else expensive, I bet the > dealers will have a couple spare CVK40's lying around that they'd be > happy to make a little money off of. As I stated in a previous post, I > don't think that the vacuum ports are the same on the HD slide, but if > you can look at one, you might be able to drill it out to match the KLR > slide. Looking the archives for stuff from either David Kelly or Dan > Paulsen, I know that one of them used an HD slide in their KLX, or at > least attempted to. > > Z > DC > > P.S. Found my original post about the diaphragm: It was David Kelly > (thanks man!), corrections to the post are in []'s. Ron Ayers wants $85 > for the Big K part no 43028-1062. > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>August 16, 2001>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > Hey all- > David Kelly (rider of a KLX650 and member of both the KLR and KLX > lists) found the following replacement slide/diaphram for our CVK40 > carbs: (reposted with his permission) > > 'The H-D part which fits but has a smaller [vacuum port] is 27585-88 > "Vacuum piston, carb, XLH883/1". $38.75.' > > You'll need to drill out the [vacuum port] on this one as it has a > smaller needle hole, but isn't a drill bit included with the DynoJet > kit? If not, does anyone know of the proper size bit for this? This > might be something that Fred could stock a couple of This is cheap in > comparison to the original KHI part ($100+ I do believe). > > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> > > On Tue, 2002-04-30 at 10:21, Steve Anderson wrote: > > While riding a couple of weeks ago, everything is running spot on, and

we

> > are bouncing through some kind of rough stuff. All of a sudden the bike > > just won't pull itself at all. It's idling fine, but as soon as I try

to

> > put a load on it, it just stumbles with any application of throttle.

Fuel

> > flow is fine and there is no problem with tank or carb venting. I take

the

> > carb apart and everything looks fine. I put it back together and it

runs

> > fine all the way to half throttle but I can turn the throttle more and

get

> > absolutely no response. > > > > I limp home and really tear into the carb and clean it to the umpteenth > > detail. Everything is fine for about a thousand miles. This weekend

I'm on

> > a long overnighter running up a steep mountain and the thing suddenly

does

> > the same thing. Any load at all and it won't run above idle. It idles > > fine, but in neutral it will run up to about 5Krpm and then it sputters

like

> > crazy and surges. This time I grab the screwdriver, and before I go

tearing

> > into it, in my frustration beat pretty hard on the side of it with the > > screwdriver. ...It ran fine the rest of the trip... > > > > This is not a real comfortable thing, 'cus it will almost certainly

happen

> > again. My best guess is that the slide isn't raising for some reason or > > another (sticking?). The "ears" on the slide had a fair bit of wear

marks

> > and I'm tempted to smooth it up with some fine emery cloth. I have

about

> > 27Kmi on the bike. I don't really want to buy another carb, but... > > > > > > Steve A. in AZ > > > > >

Steve- Here are a couple posts off the KLX list from a guy with a similar but opposite problem (it won't close). Food for thought. Z DC From: laughin_in_a_windstorm Reply-To: KLX650@yahoogroups.com To: KLX650@yahoogroups.com Subject: KLX650 CARBURETTER Date: 25 Jan 2002 08:22:12 +0000 Has anyone ever had a worn out carb?, i have a 93c model with under 9000 miles on it, i've only had it about 3 weeks, and in that time the bike has become increasingly reluctant to drop engine revs when i close the throttle, the other day i was on a by-pass doing 80mph and when i shut down to take my turning the bike just stayed at the same speed, so i decided to investigate the carb, to see if it is sticking, to my amazement, i found the diaphragm had a small split near the outside edge, the slide itself has grooves worn in the side wings and a curved ridge where it stops at the bottom, i also discovered a split in the inlet manifold, on close inspection, the carb bears no resemblence to the condition of the rest of the bike, i.e. chewed screws on the carb body, and scratching around the frame in the imediate area, where as the rest of the bike is all good as far as wear marks or even engine bolts and brake discs, what i would like to know is if anyone else has the same wear marks on the carb internals, and at what mileage, i have a feeling it has been changed sometime, someone has nicked the good one, stuck on a worn out one and sold it on, i bought it as first owner in this country, UK, as a GERMAN import from an import dealer, (no warranty) i am obviously going to have to replace the carb, but i am going to get a slide carb and try to get a more responsive machine, any thoughts?. From: laughin_in_a_windstorm Reply-To: KLX650@yahoogroups.com To: KLX650@yahoogroups.com Subject: KLX650 Re: CARBURETTER- Throttle or choke cable stuck? Date: 26 Jan 2002 19:22:16 +0000 yes i have checked the cables and they are all fine, the carb slide itself is badly worn and so is the inside of the carb where the slide goes, there is almost 4mm of side movement and a little over 2mm back and forth movement, my bike shop mechanic tells me this is what is causing the reluctance to slow down but the split in the diaphragm is what is making it not shut down at all, he also tells me he has not seen a carb in this condition before, i am now sure it is not the original carb, so a new one is my only option unfortunately, my luck never runs smoothly, thanks for the responses though.

My theory of failure analysis is that when the last mechanic changed the KLR 650 front sprocket, he simply adjusted the chain too tight. Heresay is that this has been a problem with her bike on previous mechanical go-overs. The countershaft retainer and or splines on the countershaft let go and the sprocket came loose. Without a properly retained countershaft sprocket the oil will gush out around the shaft as if you have a blown seal. What year is Mariola's bike pre'96,yes? I'm just wondering if she had the two bolt retainer or the large nut. Always check your chain tension after somebody else works on your bike!!!! Even pro's forget and you need to double check any work done on the bike. The scary thought is maybe the bike is field repairable with a countershaft retainer, I always carry spares of Jake Jakeman's excellent countershaft retainer. Get one now, you'll need it sooner or later.... Conall

>From: RM >CC: dsn_klr650@yahoogroups.com> >Subject: [DSN_klr650] Mariola's Dead Bike - NKLR >Date: Tue, 30 Apr 2002 00:38:51 -0500 (CDT) > > >On Mon, 29 Apr 2002, Harry Thames wrote: > > >Just read Mariola's report on the death of her KLR 650 (I guess Lew > >forgot to mention it). She's okay and the KLR (Roma) is on its way > >home. > >Countershaft bearing failure? > >Countershaft nut backed off, seal blew out, engine lost oil, then >countershaft bearings failed? > >????? > > >From her site: > >The motorcycle shop opened promptly at 7:00am. Its owner, a young guy >named Flash, was not overwhelmed with a perspective of working on my bike. >The first thing he said was that the chain was extremely loose. Indeed, it >was, but it ad not been like this the prior morning. I checked it before >leaving Corumba. He then proceeded to removing the front sprocket, which, >to my horror, he managed to do without tools. Correction ? he used s >screwdriver to unbend the washer. Shouldn't the sprocket be torqued to at >least 70 pounds, or maybe more?! Yes, it should. And I was sure it has >been when the guys in Buenos Aires replaced front sprocket. Something must >have gone terribly wrong in the meantime. As Flash removed the front >sprocket a mauled piece of wire fell to the ground. #%&*#, I exclaimed! >This was not good. Of course I knew it already? I just hoped my >predictions were wrong. The front sprocket shaft was totally wracked, with >pieces of bearings rattling around it. In simple words Flash described the >problem: > >- Transmission. Not good anymore. Needs a new one. Not possible here. >- Why not? >- We do not work on Kawasaki. Uncommon bike. People here ride Honda and >Suzuki. >- What do I do then? >- Tow your moto to Campo Grande. >- How many kilometers is that? >- About 200. >- I paid $50 to get the bike here, which was 80km. 200km would cost me a >fortune. Are you sure you could not fix it? >- Transmission is one problem. The engine is another. Bike was running >without oil. Engine is no good. It needs serious work. Can be done, but >not here. > >-------

_________________________________________________________________ Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com