--- In DSN_klr650@y..., "rbaugh70" wrote:
> >
> > > > In his Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, Chris Scott
> mentions "the
> > current
> > > > LKR/KLX650 models are snazzy street bikes: light, fast and
> small tanked,
> > > > they're not suited for an overland biker's needs". Is the
> 2001 KLR650
> > of
> > > > this breed?
>
> I believe Chris Scott knows what he is talking about, particularly
> after 4,000 miles riding a Canadian KLR-A up into the Yukon and
> NWT with Tom Grenon.
>
> Problem is, most of his reading audience (Europe) can only
> purchase a "C" model, and that's the model he refers to.
>
> Both in his "Call of The Wild" video, and on his Desert Riders
> website (
http://www.adventure-motorcycling.com/riders ) you
> can tell he has a high respect for the KLR-A.
>
> In other words ..... the KLR-A is proven and endorsed by the best
> of us.
>
> Roger Baugh
> a-15
Here is what Chris' book, Adventure Motorcycling Handbook, has to say
about the KLR650.
-- Marc, KLR650 A12, Loveland, Colorado USA
Adv. Touring: Humphrey on KLR 650 (KLR650)
From pps 36-37 of "Adventure Motorcycling Handbook" , Fourth Edition,
by Chris Scott, Trailblazer Publications, The Old Manse, Tower Rd.
Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UK, 2001. ISBN 1-873756-37-2.
http://www.trailblazer-guides.com
info@...
"The KLR 650 has never been as popular in the UK and France
as it has been in the US and Germany. Production began in 1987,
superseding the rather fragile KLR 600. In Europe the KLR gave way
to the Tengai which is similar, but with a larger and more brittle
plastic fairing and an upraated twin pot floating caliper front
brake. The KLR 650 is still a current model in the USA and Canda,
while in Europe it has evolved through the showy motocross-styled KLR
650 and back to a budget green- laner, similar to the original KLR
but equipped with a small fuel tank and fairing."
"In my view, the original KLR 650 still sold in North America
makes the best adventure tourer. The general construction and
quality is good. The exhaust is all stainless steel so it lasts the
life of the bike. The fuel tank has a capacity of 23 litres (18 to
reserve) allowing a range of up to 300 miles / 450 km. The fairing
is small and flexible, and yet does a reasonably good job of keeping
the wind off the rider. The frame, subframe, and wheels are strong,
so should not need any alteration to cope with the hammering imposed
on them by lengthy rides over rough terrain."
"The KLR does have weak points though. Like most dual
purpose mounts, the seat is painfully uncomfortable. To increase
comfort fit a Corbin seat that is wider and firmer. The motor is
basically tremendously strong, but it is let down by the balancer
mechanism. I'd recommend replacing the balancer chain at a belt 'n'
braces 30,000 miles / 50,000 km, and to check the balancer sprockets
very carefully at the same time. To get an idea of the condition of
the balancer sprockets, take a look at the mesh oil strainer behind
the right-hand engine cover: if it's full of bits of rubber, you're
better off replacing the balancer chain sprockets and guides. Valve-
stem oil seals fail fairly quickly, so replace them before setting
off on a big trip and while you're there get the valves shimmed; they
should last 20-25,000 miles / 30 to 40,000 km without needing
attention. The gearbox output shaft can suffer on early early
models, so check to make sure the splines are in good condition. If
they are damaged, they'll get worse quickly so, it'll be necessary to
replace the output shaft -- only $120 in the US but of course
requiring the whole engine to be stripped."
"The KLR also has design faults. The sidestand cut-out
switch is bound to fail sooner or later, so bypass it by bridging the
two wires to the switch on the loom side. The clutch safety switch
prevents the motor from being started while in gear, so disconnect
this too, as it'll prove to be a handicap when you stall in soft
sand."
"If you're planning to cover vast distances on metalled
roads, it makes sense to fit a larger 140mm radial tyre that'll last,
so eliminating the need to cary a spare. I like the Bridgestone
140/80 R1769H TW152."
"Some are put off by the water cooling, but the fact that the
KLR is water-cooled has not increased its weight compared with
similar machines. The KLR weighs 180 kg set, while an XT 600E weighs
175 kg, but the KLR's carrying more fuel. In the event of a tumble,
the loss of coolant would be a problem if water was scarce. However,
there are advantages. Because the KLR's operating temperature is
more precisely controlled, tolerances are finer, which leads to a
more eficient motor. There's a fan to help reduce coolant
temperature when necessary. I don't think the cooling system needs
modification, but a larger radiator could be fitted, as could an oil
cooler."
"All components of the electrical system have proven to be
remarkably reliable. On the earliest model, the KLR 650 A1, the
lower mounting point of the fairing subframe was solid, rather then
rubber mounted as on the later model. This caused the headlight bulb
to fail regularly. To overcome this, cut a gasket from an old inner
tube and install it onto the bulb so that the retaining spring is
isolated. It's not easy to modify the subframe."
"The rear shock will overheat and die if worked too hard.
Wind it up to maximum and it'll last. The front forks are not
performanc items, but are capable enough. The simplist improvement
to cope with extra weight is to add a 25-35mm spacer between the top
of the spring and the fork cap, and to use a 15 W fork oil."
"Carb removal is a horrible job, but if you replace the float-
bowl retaining screws with Allen bolts it's then possible to remove
the float-bowl without removing the carb."
"Avoid abused or high milage despatched examples. Age is not
such an important factor, as most are old anyway. Be careful if you
are buying second hand in Germany, as they got the very gutless 27hp
version as well as the usual 48hp version that was sold in the rest
of Europe."
"The standard gearing using a 15-tooth front and a 43-tooth
rear sprocket is a good compromise that provides an indicated top
speed of over 100 mph / 160 kph with the ability to plow through soft
sand and mud."
"Other tips"
"Because of the shape of the fuel tank, the last few
centilitres of petrol are unable to find their way into the carb. So
by lying the bike over on its left-hand side, you'll be able to
recover the last few drops to ride a few extra kilometres before
having to push."
"It can be quite difficult to fit the standard foam air
filter correctly so that no abrasive dust can find its way into the
motor. Because of this I like to use a K&N air filter."
"EBC pads work well in my experience and a stainless steel
braided front brake line is a worthwihle mprovement."
"It's possible to relocate the fuse holder behind the left-
hand side panel, so that it's accessible without having to remove
both sidepanels and the seat."
"I've found that WD 40 is very good for drive chains. It
prevents the links seizing, and being a light lubricant it attracts
less grit."
-- Rupert Humphrey