Wilsons Sandbox

I am using an Aerostich 45w vest, and an 80/100 headlight. I turn off the headlight when offroad. I have not had charging problems. Especially if you are riding everyday at highway speeds, you should be fine. You'll be more than fine if you can safely run without a headlight on the highway for a couple hours a day. Devon A15 Cookie Sims wrote:

> > I just recently bought a KLR650, and am planning a trip to Alaska this > summer. Is there any way I can use my Gerbing heated jacket w/ the KLR? > I couldn't access the archives - so I apologize if this repeats an old > thread. . . > Also - any web resources for adventure touring would be appreciated. > > thanks for any help, > cookie > 00 KLR650 > 99 CBRF4 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/

Call Gerbing and order the Heat-Troller...the larger one is fine. Ask then to supply the cable to hook up to your battery with a fuse. Plug the Heat-Troller into the flat 2 cable connector...plug your jacket into the Heat-Troller. Now...if you want to go a step further, put on a set of Kimpex heated grips. Ask Gerbing for the "Y" cable and plug both your grips and the jacket into the Heat-Troller. They will work perfect and the KLR can handle the load since the Heat-Troller does not stay on all the time. If you have another bike, it is easy to move from bike to bike. http://www.gerbing.com/Pages/heatcontrol.html The price is $69 and you won't be turning a manual switch on and off. An alternate way of wiring is to tap into the aux. light connector that is located by your amber front running light...inside the cowling. Use that connection to run a relay to turn the Heat-Troller on and off. I used a piece of Velcro to connect the Heat-Troller to my gas tank right next to the front of the saddle. Rain and cold never seemed to bother the unit. All that said...you do have a consideration for Power Management. If you are running a stock bike with no mods to increase lighting...the Gerbing stuff should work fine. If you have a higher wattage headlight and other stuff...you could have a problem. One final benefit of the pig-tail connected to your battery...I have converted a small 12v electric air-pump (cost about $12 at PepBoys, take off the outer plastic housing and wrap the unit up with a couple rags) to plug into the flat 2 connector. I also have my float charger modified to use the same connector. This is really handy and obsoletes the cigarette adapter. The connector is rugged and water never is an issue. I have my pig-tail hanging down from the seat about 4". Good luck, Bill Pratt, Mill Creek, WA, USA, STOC#117 97' ST1100-ABS, 97' KLR650 www.billpratt.com "No matter where you go...there you are!"

----- Original Message ----- From: "Cookie Sims" To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, March 05, 2002 9:40 AM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Gerbing jacket + KLR > I just recently bought a KLR650, and am planning a trip to Alaska this > summer. Is there any way I can use my Gerbing heated jacket w/ the KLR? > I couldn't access the archives - so I apologize if this repeats an old > thread. . . > Also - any web resources for adventure touring would be appreciated. > > thanks for any help, > cookie > 00 KLR650 > 99 CBRF4 > > Checkout Dual Sport News at > http://www.dualsportnews.com > Be part of the Adventure! > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > > Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com > Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com > Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com > List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > >

> Sure no problem. Now go and gap your Splitfire's and make sure > you're water wetter is the right concentration. > in. But don't try and tell me that WD40 is a good lubricant. > It's not, never will be, and can't be made to be. I'm a maintenance > mechanic with 36 years of experience. One thing that I have learned > it that "lubes" like WD40 will keep me in business until I'm too old > to ride. >

Yo Mr.Millerized, I never said that WD-40 was the world's best lubricant for all situations. All I wrote was that in this application it worked for me . Yes, I'm aware that I'm cleaning my chain as well as/more than lubing it. Which is exactly what I want to do. Oh yeah, I'm not a real mechanic and don't pretend to be. Bogdan, Below is my full report as originally posted some months back if you or anyone care to peruse it. My first chain and sprocket set was changed at 19.5k miles. Since I bought the bike at 4k+ miles it had subsisted mainly on 80/90 gear oil applied every two tankfulls or so; the chain ran through a Z Chain Oiler gizmo every time it was lubed. I always lubed the chain warm cause that's what I was taught to do + the gear oil wouldn't spread on a cold chain. The drivetrain could have lasted longer but I had a long trip ahead of me and was going to take things apart anyway to clean and lube the uni-trac. My only problem with the gear oil was that it was sloppy. With my 2nd chain/sprockets I decided to lube with WD-40 for the life of the chain to see what would happen. WD would be cleaner I reckoned and could be bought in small transportable sizes in any "pueblito de mierda" in Mexico. Hey, it was even available in Canada. I lubed at the same intervals (2 tankfulls or less if I did dirt) and again used the Z Chain Oiler at every lube. I used the gadget as much to spread the oil evenly as to clean the chain. I dispensed with the warm chain requirement and more often than not lubed the chain cold. I never cleaned the chain with kerosene or any thing else. The results are in. My chain and sprocket set has seen 21k miles. The majority of those were high speed highway often 80mph +; there was some dirt and some commuting as well. The front sprocket (15 tooth) was beginning to leave its' symmetrical state at least 5 or 6 k miles ago; its' state of wear is no longer subtle. The rear began to slightly wear maybe 3k ago now it's visibly worn but not yet in a claw state. The chain could go further though it's in the gray area when given the "pull back from the rear sprocket " test. The O-rings seem in fine condition. Folks that's good enough for me. Some of you yupsters enjoy conspicuously consuming; you feel you must have a brand name moto-specific lube/wax on your shelf or in your saddlebag. If that's the case you could adhere one of those moronic Nike logos to a can of WD. And what about the planet ?? We have a finite supply of wax. Is it not best saved for bikini waxing ?? Would I now do anything differently. Only one thing: Next time I'll change the front (countershaft) sprocket at 10k miles before it shows any wear. It's clearly the weakest part of this trio. I wonder if the rear sprocket and chain would last even longer if I did that. Yours faithfully, Bogdan