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brake bleeding, nklr
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2001 8:19 am
by Glenn Tompkins
I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put new
seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the rust
out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure.
Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more
suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks.
Glenn
A13
82 Maxim (Garage bitch)
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., david.smith@s... wrote:
> I just installed the Galfner Braided Brake line and I cannot get it
> to bleed. I have gone thru a half a container of brake fluid no
> brakes at all and no bubbles anymore. Anyone have any suggestions.
brake bleeding, nklr
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2001 9:28 am
by Ted Palmer
Glenn Tompkins wrote:
> I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put new
> seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the rust
> out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure.
> Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more
> suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks.
This reminds me of the time I put new seals in the master cylinder
of my first car, a Morris Mini van.
I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it after bleeding it for ages.
I pulled the MC apart again and figured out that the new seals were
for a 0.70inch bore, and my MC was actually a 0.75inch bore.
Mister_T
Melbourne Australia
brake bleeding, nklr
Posted: Sun Oct 07, 2001 11:30 am
by Glenn Tompkins
Hey Mr T,
This was my first, and worst fear. Push comes to shove I guess I can
disassemble and measure the evil little things. But I find it hard to
believe my local parts place would let me down. The Easter Bunny said
I could trust them...
Glenn
-- In DSN_klr650@y..., Ted Palmer wrote:
> Glenn Tompkins wrote:
>
> > I have this same problem with the wife's Maxim. Dual discs, put
new
> > seals in the master cylinder, bore was corroded, sandpapered the
rust
> > out, after 1/2 pint of brake fluid and 2 hours, no pressure.
> > Desparate...the Yamaha is garage queen...hate it. Any more
> > suggestions? By the way, used Mity Vac to no avail. Thanks.
>
> This reminds me of the time I put new seals in the master cylinder
> of my first car, a Morris Mini van.
> I couldn't get a firm pedal out of it after bleeding it for ages.
> I pulled the MC apart again and figured out that the new seals were
> for a 0.70inch bore, and my MC was actually a 0.75inch bore.
>
> Mister_T
> Melbourne Australia
brake bleeding, nklr
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2001 4:10 am
by Ted Palmer
Glenn Tompkins wrote:
[master cylinders seals replaced, now no pressure]
> This was my first, and worst fear. Push comes to shove I guess I can
> disassemble and measure the evil little things. But I find it hard to
> believe my local parts place would let me down. The Easter Bunny said
> I could trust them...
If you can't get a firm lever and you suspect the master cylinder,
find a way to block off the outlet port of the MC, pump it and see
if it goes firm.
Try blocking off the port with your finger first to see if the
MC is at least trying to push fluid.
It could get a bit messy but thems the breaks.
If the MC passes this first test, a suitable size clean bolt could
then be fitted into the port. Maybe loosen the bolt a bit and bleed
it a bit before tightening it up to seal.
If you can't get a _real_ firm lever this way then you have some
problem with the MC.
If it is real firm then you have a problem somewhere down the line.
Mister_T
Melbourne Australia
brake bleeding, nklr
Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2001 10:34 pm
by Devon Jarvis
I had an '85 maxim. Great bike, one of the more bulletproof motors. There
are thousands of those things around, you should be able to pick up a
salvage master cylinder pretty cheap. Does that one have the square bars? I
have a friend who's '85 maxim was stuck by a truck while parked, that MC
would be for sale cheap but it's for a round 7/8" handlebar. How does yours
mount?
Also, have you inquired on the XJ owners list on micapeak.com? Those guys
were a lot of help when I had my XJ.
Devon
A15
78 SR500
81 SR500
Glenn Tompkins wrote:
rebound setting
Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2001 10:00 am
by Devon Jarvis
Thanks, I didn't know that. That means that the progressive spring will
actually need LESS force to compress it initially than the stock, and
then will require far more force to bottom it. Funny, the front stock
springs also run a lot of preload.
Oh well, no time to get a replacement rear spring before Sunday.
Devon
A15
standerson@... wrote:
>
> >
> > I have been told the stock spring is 300lb/in. On preload setting
> #3,
> > which is maybe .5" of preloading, this mean you need 450lb of force
> to
> > begin compressing the shock (but it thereafter compresses at
> 300lb/in).
> > If the bike is tolerable with #4 or #5 preload, then the progressive
> > spring (500 to 550 lb/in) would feel about the same on surfaced
> roads.
>
> Take into account that the stock spring (at pre-load setting 1) is
> pre-loaded well over an inch and the progressive maybe an eighth of
> an inch (at installation). In other words, unloaded, the progressive
> spring is more than an inch shorter than the stock one.
>
> I think this will give you the appropriate rate with the right sag.
> The progressive on the rear makes at least as much difference as the
> progressives up front for me...
>
> Steve A. in AZ