valve adjust/cam chain tensioner?

[michiganmosers@aol.com]

Maybe someone else thought of this first, but I figured a good way to open up the airbox without letting water in (and also offering a plugging option) was to drill several 1" dia holes in the top (under the seat) using a hole saw. At Lowes/Home depot I got some 1" dia plastic hole plugs in the misc. fastener dept. This way I can always plug up the holes either temporarily or permanently with some silicon caulk / RTV. The 4 holes I drilled each have more than 3/4 square inch area, for a > 3 square inch total additional opening. Compared to the 40 mm carb throat (less than 2 sq in) this is a fairly large additional opening. Being on top they are least available for water, etc. to enter and in fact are higher than the stock snorkel. Also doing it this way leaves a nice "web" between the holes to keep rigidity and strength in the air box assembly. I also got a ShopVac foam filter wrap and can cut it to shape and lay it between the seat and the air box top to provide additional screening of dust/grit, etc. The ShopVac foam also looks to me to be a close fit (with some wire ties) as a K&N "prefilter." Must cut to fit, but pretty cheap at $4. Shop Vac makes different size foam filters, so look around for the "right" ones (the smaller size). I am running with K&N/DynoJet 150 main and 3.5 turns on the pilot, will install my "Quiet" Big Gun pipe this week. So far runs fantastic and has a neat throaty sound with all the extra air pushing thru the system. NOTE: be careful to get all the plastic shavings out of the airbox after drilling, also be careful not to drill too close to the "screen" barrier wall inside the box on the carb side. Drill small pilot holes first to guide the hole saw - leave 1.25" - 1.50" space between pilot holes for proper finished spacing. 1993 A7.

[Ted Palmer]

michiganmosers@... wrote:

> Maybe someone else thought of this first, but I figured a good way to > open up the airbox without letting water in (and also offering a > plugging option)

[sensible procedures deleted for brevity] If you are really fussy about bits of plastic drillings in the airbox, you could apply some masking tape to the inside of the airbox under the area to be drilled. If you build up a few overlapping strips, you could form a bubble of masking tape on the inside that leaves sticky surface for the drillings to adhere to, a bit like flypaper. Mister_T

[Kurt Simpson]

Gilbert, don't remove the cams. Just lift them from the right side enought to get at the shims. Removing the spring, bolt and washer is all the necessary. Kurt -----Original Message----- From: gilbert [mailto:klr_gil@...] Sent: Saturday, June 09, 2001 3:27 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] valve adjust/cam chain tensioner? Hi All, After 1500 miles on my A-15, I decided to check the valve clearances. They are tight, especially so on the left side, both intake and exhaust. So time for new shims... But some advice please...should I remove the entire cam-chain tensioner (and re-set it for re-assembly) or will I be able to move the cams enough with just the cam-chain tensioner spring removed? What has worked best for others? I want to say that this KLR 650 owners site has been a great source for information!! Thanks to all who have shared their experiences! Thanks! Gilbert A-15 Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Post message: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subscribe: DSN_klr650-subscribe@yahoogroups.com Unsubscribe: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com List owner: DSN_klr650-owner@yahoogroups.com Support Dual Sport News by subscribing at: http://www.dualsportnews.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/