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brake pad wear
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2001 10:05 am
by Peter Alspach
Hi,
Last night I heard this nasty grating sound coming from the rear brake, only
when I'd just finish coming to a stop (no sound when rear brake applied at
speed). I checked this morning and it looks like the rear brake pad on the
wheel side is pretty much toast, while the outer pad is fine. Is that a
normal wear pattern? This is my first bike. Next question: is my rotor toast
or just in need of a bit of polishing.re-grinding?
Taking the bicycle today to avoid any further damage. Luckily it's quite
nice...
Peter Alspach
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brake pad wear
Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2001 2:19 pm
by garagedoor79@hotmail.com
Not a normal wear pattern as per my bike. I just changed the
original rear pads out last night and they were worn evenly on both
pads.
FWIW
Karl
> I checked this morning and it looks like the rear brake pad on the
> wheel side is pretty much toast, while the outer pad is fine. Is
that a
> normal wear pattern?
brake pad wear
Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2001 7:54 am
by Ted Palmer
Peter Alspach wrote:
[...]
> I checked this morning and it looks like the rear brake pad on the
> wheel side is pretty much toast, while the outer pad is fine. Is that a
> normal wear pattern?
Not normal. This is a classic symptom of sticking caliper
slide pins.
Note that theoretically, a sticky caliper slide will wear the
inside pad, whereas a totally stuck caliper slide will wear the
outer (piston side) pad.
> This is my first bike. Next question: is my rotor toast
> or just in need of a bit of polishing.re-grinding?
If the gouges are so deep that machining the disc flat would leave
the disc below minimum spec thickness of 4.5mm, then you can consider
the disc in need of replacement.
Mister_T
brake pad wear
Posted: Tue Mar 20, 2001 3:09 pm
by Peter Alspach
What needs to be done to make it unsticky? If it's a fairly simple procedure
I'd like to do it instead of them folks at $60/hr. BTW, I don't have the
manuals (I know, I know) so if it's beyond a short description, I'll leave
it to the local shop.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Palmer"
To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2001 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Brake pad wear
> Peter Alspach wrote:
> [...]
> > I checked this morning and it looks like the rear brake pad on the
> > wheel side is pretty much toast, while the outer pad is fine. Is that a
> > normal wear pattern?
>
> Not normal. This is a classic symptom of sticking caliper
> slide pins.
> Note that theoretically, a sticky caliper slide will wear the
> inside pad, whereas a totally stuck caliper slide will wear the
> outer (piston side) pad.
>
> > This is my first bike. Next question: is my rotor toast
> > or just in need of a bit of polishing.re-grinding?
>
> If the gouges are so deep that machining the disc flat would leave
> the disc below minimum spec thickness of 4.5mm, then you can consider
> the disc in need of replacement.
>
> Mister_T
>
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
>
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
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>
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brake pad wear
Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2001 7:35 am
by Ted Palmer
Peter Alspach wrote:
> What needs to be done to make it unsticky? If it's a fairly simple procedure
> I'd like to do it instead of them folks at $60/hr. BTW, I don't have the
> manuals (I know, I know) so if it's beyond a short description, I'll leave
> it to the local shop.
I guess for about $60 you could buy a base manual.
While the base manual doesn't show the 650 rear disc system, the 650
supplement manual refers to the base manual front caliper section for
maintenance on the 650 rear caliper.
There are 2 allen-headed bolts holding the caliper bracket to the
web on the swingarm (18ft-lb torque for these), and that is all you
need to remove to get the caliper off.
The bolts hold a C-shaped plate on which there are the 2 pins on
which the caliper slides.
The pins have rubber boots that are supposed to keep dirt out of
the sliding surfaces.
The base manual specifies "PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil)" grease for the
pins. I can't recall ever having seen anything on a shelf labelled
as containing this stuff. Maybe this stuff gives "marine" greases
their bluey colour, I dunno.
The caliper has an anti-rattle spring that bears on the top of the
pads.
You have to be careful when replacing the pads that everything
is in place.
Anyone got anything to add?
Mister_T
brake pad wear
Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2001 9:21 am
by Fred Williams
> The base manual specifies "PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil)" grease for the
> pins. I can't recall ever having seen anything on a shelf labelled
> as containing this stuff. Maybe this stuff gives "marine" greases
> their bluey colour, I dunno.
I think they mean "High Temp".... Most "marine or water-resistant"
grease will get fried in short order here..
Fred
A15 Kawtchasaki
brake pad wear
Posted: Wed Mar 21, 2001 9:25 am
by Bogdan Swider
> > The base manual specifies "PBC (Poly Butyl Cuprysil)" grease for the
> > pins. I can't recall ever having seen anything on a shelf labelled
> > as containing this stuff. Maybe this stuff gives "marine" greases
> > their bluey colour, I dunno.
>
> I think they mean "High Temp".... Most "marine or water-resistant"
> grease will get fried in short order here..
>
> Fred
> A15 Kawtchasaki
>
Just go to an auto parts store and ask for grease for brake caliper pins;
costs a buck or two. I got mine at Napa. Bogdan
brake pad wear
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2001 6:08 am
by Ted Palmer
Bogdan Swider wrote:
[caliper pin grease]
> Just go to an auto parts store and ask for grease for brake caliper pins;
> costs a buck or two. I got mine at Napa. Bogdan
I've got a tube of that kind of stuff sitting around.
It seems to contain a combination of telfon, graphite and moly
additives, so it seems to cover a lot of the lubricant bases.
The manual for my 1984 Honda CBX750F specs silicone grease for its
caliper slides, but try finding some silicone grease in your ordinary
car bits store.
IMO, just about any grease will do the job, wheel bearing grease,
Never-Seez, whatever.
Makes a change from discussing oils, eh?
Mister_T
brake pad wear
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2001 7:27 am
by Dan Oaks
Silicon grease is quite commonly available from fishing tackle suppliers.
Be careful where you apply Never-Seeze or other lubricants that contain metal
derivitives. Under adverse conditions ( salt water, acid rain, dog piss) they
can become involved in electrolysis with dissimilar metals resulting in a
white crumbly form of metal salt concrete that will lock everything up
permanently.
--
bierdo
Ted Palmer wrote:
> Bogdan Swider wrote:
> [caliper pin grease]
> > Just go to an auto parts store and ask for grease for brake caliper pins;
> > costs a buck or two. I got mine at Napa. Bogdan
>
> I've got a tube of that kind of stuff sitting around.
> It seems to contain a combination of telfon, graphite and moly
> additives, so it seems to cover a lot of the lubricant bases.
> The manual for my 1984 Honda CBX750F specs silicone grease for its
> caliper slides, but try finding some silicone grease in your ordinary
> car bits store.
> IMO, just about any grease will do the job, wheel bearing grease,
> Never-Seez, whatever.
> Makes a change from discussing oils, eh?
>
> Mister_T
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
>
http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650
> Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@...
> Let's keep this list SPAM free!
>
> Visit our site at
http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>
DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
brake pad wear
Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2001 7:45 am
by Andrus Chesley
A substance called NOLOCK is the best I've encountered for aluminum. As
was said early, Neversieze and salt water conditions, etc. doesn't work
very well. NOLOCK is an anti seize compound made for aluminum. In the
Offshore environment I work in, Neversieze an aluminum screw type cover
to it's box and in a year you have to break it apart to get in it.
Andy
Cajun Country
KLR R11RA.< this may be in trouble if the Aprilia Pegaso 1000 makes it
here in Oct.>