Wilsons Sandbox

> 1999 Klr 650 with 1300 miles sits in the garage. > PO installed Supertrapp EAR. (needs exhaust shield , melting rear > fender, jest a small spot). > > New K&N filter sits in box on workbench. > > Carb needs worked on! > > Choices: dynojet stage 1 kit or stage 2 kit? > OR Marks web site carb mod. > OR White Bros. carb replacement kit (Mikuni) $200.00 > > what do I do?

The KLR carb is performing remarkable feats in delivering good fuel flow to the bike regardless of condition and altitude. I'd be inclined to stick with it. It is far less fickle than that on a DR650 for example. If it is a '99 I can't imagine it needs much more than a cleaning. I'd put the K & N in and a dynojet kit in...stage1 and 2 just have to do with which jets and which needle setting you use. Stage 3 is airbox mods. I'd use the middle notch and the middle jet in the kit and see how it runs with 6-8 discs. Kurt

Well, what's wrong with a can of carb cleaner? And while you're in there I would recommend picking up some SS hex cap bolts for the float bowl and the diaphram cover as my screws began to strip the 3rd time they'd ever been removed from the carb. If you're going to rejet it, I would first clean everything up, and then run it around for awhile and check the coloration of the plug. You will find that you might need to richen up the mixture as the KLR is notoriously lean for emission reasons. Then pickup a Dynojet kit and run it around some more... See if you can feel any difference. I would then only being to think about the airbox mods. Don't do them on a stock jetted bike, or it will be very, very lean and that isn't good. If you don't want to permanently alter your new bike quite yet, you can play around with opening the airbox by simply removing the air cleaner door. If you find this helps, then you might want to mod your airbox. Tis best to work in steps I think especially when dealing with carbs. I don't think the Mikuni is worth the bux. Ride the bike BEFORE you mod. You'll then know what you're missing/gaining (or hurting/benefiting) through the mods. ------------------ Zack SE DC KLR650A5 "Buster" ZG1000A1 -----Original Message----- From: dmoran@... [mailto:dmoran@...] Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:46 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] What to Do! 1999 Klr 650 with 1300 miles sits in the garage. PO installed Supertrapp EAR. (needs exhaust shield , melting rear fender, jest a small spot). New K&N filter sits in box on workbench. Carb needs worked on! Choices: dynojet stage 1 kit or stage 2 kit? OR Marks web site carb mod. OR White Bros. carb replacement kit (Mikuni) $200.00 what do I do?

--- In DSN_klr650@y..., jenJBphun@c... wrote:

> Gino's method of adjusting chain slack is okay, but it's more quick

and fun when I drape myself over the rear of the bike. My boyfriend then takes a quick peek at the chain slack. -Jennifer Jeez if there's any slack at all while you're draped over the rear, you might want to check the wear on your cam lobes or else your boyfriend needs a new tensioner bolt. dat brooklyn bum

I warn against using an automotive carb cleaner. Back in 1984, I did just that with my Yamaha 750 Maxim. It resulted in chemically damaging the viton seals on the throttle shafts. Yamaha did not sell these seals as a separate part, so the option was to locate a similar seal or buy 4 new carbs for $750. The seals could not be found, so I opted for a set of near new carbs from a wrecked 750 ($250). Vernon -----Original Message----- From: Zachariah Mully [mailto:zmully@...] Sent: Wednesday, February 21, 2001 5:39 AM To: dmoran@...; DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] What to Do! Well, what's wrong with a can of carb cleaner? And while you're in there I would recommend picking up some SS hex cap bolts for the float bowl and the diaphram cover as my screws began to strip the 3rd time they'd ever been removed from the carb. If you're going to rejet it, I would first clean everything up, and then run it around for awhile and check the coloration of the plug. You will find that you might need to richen up the mixture as the KLR is notoriously lean for emission reasons. Then pickup a Dynojet kit and run it around some more... See if you can feel any difference. I would then only being to think about the airbox mods. Don't do them on a stock jetted bike, or it will be very, very lean and that isn't good. If you don't want to permanently alter your new bike quite yet, you can play around with opening the airbox by simply removing the air cleaner door. If you find this helps, then you might want to mod your airbox. Tis best to work in steps I think especially when dealing with carbs. I don't think the Mikuni is worth the bux. Ride the bike BEFORE you mod. You'll then know what you're missing/gaining (or hurting/benefiting) through the mods. ------------------ Zack SE DC KLR650A5 "Buster" ZG1000A1 -----Original Message----- From: dmoran@... [mailto:dmoran@...] Sent: Tuesday, February 20, 2001 9:46 PM To: DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com Subject: [DSN_klr650] What to Do! 1999 Klr 650 with 1300 miles sits in the garage. PO installed Supertrapp EAR. (needs exhaust shield , melting rear fender, jest a small spot). New K&N filter sits in box on workbench. Carb needs worked on! Choices: dynojet stage 1 kit or stage 2 kit? OR Marks web site carb mod. OR White Bros. carb replacement kit (Mikuni) $200.00 what do I do? Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/