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upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 10:00 am
by garagedoor79@hotmail.com
Yesterday I was continuing with the major service on my KLR. While
getting to the Unitrak, I had to remove the upper rear frame bolts.
They were slightly bent! I know it's been posted here before, but if
you haven't, pull em out and check them. If they snap while on the
road or trail, you are in deep s**t!
On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
Karl
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 10:14 am
by Swede
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., garagedoor79@h... wrote:
>
> On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
> lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
>
> Karl
Grade 5 is pretty much standard, grade 8 is hardened, then you can
get into stainless which will harden with abuse (work hardening).
Then there's depleated uranium...wait that's artillery, sorry! One
hit with a hammer and B-BOOOOMM!
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 12:34 pm
by Rich Kickbush
Calling all metallurgists - Stainless hardens with abuse? Does that
mean it becomes stronger, or more brittle, or both?
I have hardened steel bolts in my sub-frame that have 10.9 written on
their head - what grade is this? I assumed that these would be better
than stainless, since you can't get stainless as hard as reg. steel. Is
this true?
PS I second the call to check and maybe upgrade the frame bolts. I
sheared mine, and it sucks...'specially in the middle of Guatemala...
Rich
Swede wrote:
> --- In DSN_klr650@y..., garagedoor79@h... wrote:
> >
> > On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
> > lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
> >
> > Karl
>
> Grade 5 is pretty much standard, grade 8 is hardened, then you can
> get into stainless which will harden with abuse (work hardening).
> Then there's depleated uranium...wait that's artillery, sorry! One
> hit with a hammer and B-BOOOOMM!
>
> Visit the KLR650 archives at
>
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>
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upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 1:53 pm
by les123@home.com
--- In DSN_klr650@y..., Rich Kickbush wrote:
> Calling all metallurgists - Stainless hardens with abuse? Does that
> mean it becomes stronger, or more brittle, or both?
> I have hardened steel bolts in my sub-frame that have 10.9 written
on
> their head - what grade is this?
Metric grade roughly equivalent to SAE grade 8.
Dave
A14
Richmond
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 4:25 pm
by Krgrife@aol.com
In a message dated 2/5/01 8:15:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
stevens@... writes:
>
> On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
> lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
>
> Karl
Grade 5 is pretty much standard, grade 8 is hardened, then you can
get into stainless which will harden with abuse (work hardening).
Then there's depleated uranium...wait that's artillery, sorry! One
hit with a hammer and B-BOOOOMM! >>
I think the metric fasteners use a different number system for hardness. 8.8
is a medium level and I believe the hardest are 12.9.
Kurt Grife
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 4:40 pm
by Dash Weeks
Most Stainless Steels will "work harden" - WORK being Force times
Distance. Stainless doesn't stress harden, but it does strain
harden. Strain being a distance. So long as the applied stress (call it
force for now) doesn't cause a strain then no it won't harden. Lets talk
dislocation theory for a spell and you'll all be asleep, I'll skip that for
this post. ;}
There are basically three types of stainless steels, Austenitic,
Martensitic and Ferritic. We'll deal with the first two as they are the
most common and the ones that are used for most applications. The
Austenitic stainless steels are not heat treatable, that is they don't get
hard with a heat treatment. They do get hard with WORK. Martensitic
stainless steels typically only get hard with a heat treatment, and only
work harden a little bit. A full hard Austenitic can be as strong as a
modestly treated Martensitic BUT it is not as tough. Tough -relating to
the amount of work needed for failure, more specifically it is the
material's resistance to crack growth. (we don't need a fracture mechanics
lesson here) We need strength and toughness on our 650cc
Vibrators. Austenitic won't give you both. AND Austenitic is the common
grade for your bolts at the marine store and the hardware store (18/8 or
300 series). Most of the 400 series are Martensitic, that is you can heat
treat them and in some cases enjoy good toughness. BUT you couldn't afford
a set of bolts made of 400 series stainless. The alloys are expensive, the
processing is expensive and you'd be better off using a coated alloy steel
bolt in its place and deal with the corrosion.
Now you're gonna run to your Metals Handbook and give me a whole bunch of
"Yeah but" or "What about" and you'll find plenty to be outside the norm
of general concepts. Welcome to metallurgy. The alloys nowadays are
amazing, and there are simply too many to list here as examples.
Let me add that all the bolt alloys have to have at least 10%
elongation. Then the grades are specified with minimum tensile strengths....
Grade 8 - 150 ksi
Grade 7 - 133 ksi
Grade 6 - 133 ksi - 140 ksi (yes that's right... this is stress and not
load - so diameters are important to consider and are specified with size
limits.)
Grade 5 - 105 ksi - 120 ksi
Grade 3 - 55-100 ksi
Grade 2 - 64-69 ksi
Grade 1 - 55 ksi
Well Grade 8 is only possible with one of the Austenitic stainless (at
least what I have listed here in front of me today) and that is 301-1/2
hard. But in the Martensitic SS's you can do it with a 416, 414, 430, 431
and I'm sure there's a bunch more that I don't have listed. So why not
make Grade 8 stainless bolts out of 301 1/2 hard. Well.... for a couple of
reasons... and this isn't to say that it can't or isn't done.... It's just
not common. First, the processing to achieve a 1/2 hard 301 includes an
extensive drawing process, but then the threads are rolled and the head is
forged. You have a mixed hard bolt by the time you get done. If the
dislocation structure across the harness profile isn't matched well (that's
really relative) then you end up with a bolt that has good tensile strength
but really poor thread shear strength. Not good. So then you stress
relieve them and then you are heading right back towards the annealed state
and those properties just aren't good enough. There's too many scenarios
and a million different ways to solve metallurgical problems (hence the
enormous numbers of engineered alloys), so I'm not saying that it can't be
done, or isn't done... It's just not worth it.
Well I'm about out of stuff to add at this point. If you have any
questions, feel free. Keep your "Yeah buts" and "What abouts" to yourself,
as my only reply will be "that's metallurgy" It's as much an art as it is
a science.
To answer specifically... It can.... both (most cases).... 10.9 doesn't
mean anything except to the manufacture, it doesn't fit a standard
method.....It is better than stainless, but you can get stainless that is
as good and in a few instances better than "Regular Steel" (what ever
regular means). Longevity of your frame bolts requires a few
things. First that they are free from imperfections and corrosion, second
they are properly torqued, and third.... they'll only break when you
absolutely can't afford (having many meanings) to have one break.
Oh and DU is barely strong enough for Grade 1 bolts... But yeah it is
highly pyrophoric.
LaterZ
Dash
At 10:33 AM 2/5/2001 -0800, Rich Kickbush wrote:
>Calling all metallurgists - Stainless hardens with abuse? Does that
>mean it becomes stronger, or more brittle, or both?
>I have hardened steel bolts in my sub-frame that have 10.9 written on
>their head - what grade is this? I assumed that these would be better
>than stainless, since you can't get stainless as hard as reg. steel. Is
>this true?
>PS I second the call to check and maybe upgrade the frame bolts. I
>sheared mine, and it sucks...'specially in the middle of Guatemala...
>
>Rich
>
>Swede wrote:
>
> > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., garagedoor79@h... wrote:
> > >
> > > On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
> > > lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
> > >
> > > Karl
> >
> > Grade 5 is pretty much standard, grade 8 is hardened, then you can
> > get into stainless which will harden with abuse (work hardening).
> > Then there's depleated uranium...wait that's artillery, sorry! One
> > hit with a hammer and B-BOOOOMM!
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 4:48 pm
by Dash Weeks
Disregard my previous brain poo. 10.9 is the metric equivalent of our US
grade 8.
Sorry about that.
LaterZ
Dash
>At 10:33 AM 2/5/2001 -0800, Rich Kickbush wrote:
> >Calling all metallurgists - Stainless hardens with abuse? Does that
> >mean it becomes stronger, or more brittle, or both?
> >I have hardened steel bolts in my sub-frame that have 10.9 written on
> >their head - what grade is this? I assumed that these would be better
> >than stainless, since you can't get stainless as hard as reg. steel. Is
> >this true?
> >PS I second the call to check and maybe upgrade the frame bolts. I
> >sheared mine, and it sucks...'specially in the middle of Guatemala...
> >
> >Rich
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 5:15 pm
by Ron Hipkiss
Well God damn.......that explains it. Very well said, it sure brings back
memories of my materials class, years ago.
And just a small clarification for those who care, 1 ksi = 1000 psi.
Just goes to show us that we better be careful what we ask for, we just
might get it.
Cpt. Ron
Sacramento, CA
P.S. But Dash, what about..........? Hehe.
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 5:42 pm
by Dan Oaks
I am no metallurgist, but it is my understanding that stainless steel bolts
do not have near the shear strength that carbon steel grade 8 bolts have. I
use stainless fasteners in some of my projects because of salt water, but
usually go up a size or two to compensate.
Here are specs from a fastener catalog:
Grade 2: Min. tensile strength 60,000 psi
Grade 5: Min. tensile strength 120,000 psi
Grade 8: Min. tensile strength 150,000 psi
Grade 9: Min. tensile strength 170,000 psi Also has design modifications to
make it stronger. (Thicker head)
Anything less than grade 8 is only recommended in applications where
strength is not an issue. Since the most common stainless steel, 18-8
Stainless has a minimum tensile strength of 75,000 psi, it doesn't qualify
for anything stressful.
I never heard the one about stainless hardening with use before. That is a
good one. 8^)
Use extreme caution when substituting bolts and nuts on your bike! (Or
anywhere else!)
--
bierdo
*********************
Rich Kickbush wrote:
> Calling all metallurgists - Stainless hardens with abuse? Does that
> mean it becomes stronger, or more brittle, or both?
> I have hardened steel bolts in my sub-frame that have 10.9 written on
> their head - what grade is this? I assumed that these would be better
> than stainless, since you can't get stainless as hard as reg. steel. Is
> this true?
> PS I second the call to check and maybe upgrade the frame bolts. I
> sheared mine, and it sucks...'specially in the middle of Guatemala...
>
> Rich
>
> Swede wrote:
>
> > --- In DSN_klr650@y..., garagedoor79@h... wrote:
> > >
> > > On the same topic, how are the grades of bolts measured? Is the
> > > lower the number stronger, or the higher the number stronger?
> > >
> > > Karl
> >
> > Grade 5 is pretty much standard, grade 8 is hardened, then you can
> > get into stainless which will harden with abuse (work hardening).
> > Then there's depleated uranium...wait that's artillery, sorry! One
> > hit with a hammer and B-BOOOOMM!
>
upper rear frame bolts
Posted: Mon Feb 05, 2001 6:07 pm
by Russell Scott
Go here for everything you ever wanted to know about nuts and bolts etc.
http://www.americanfastener.com/techcharts.htm
Russel'r
-----Original Message-----
From: Dan Oaks [SMTP:bierdo@...]
Sent: Monday, February 05, 2001 3:43 PM
To: Rich Kickbush
Cc: Swede;
DSN_klr650@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [DSN_klr650] Re: Upper rear frame bolts
I am no metallurgist, but it is my understanding that stainless steel bolts
do not have near the shear strength that carbon steel grade 8 bolts have. I
use stainless fasteners in some of my projects because of salt water, but
usually go up a size or two to compensate.
Here are specs from a fastener catalog:
Grade 2: Min. tensile strength 60,000 psi
Grade 5: Min. tensile strength 120,000 psi
Grade 8: Min. tensile strength 150,000 psi
Grade 9: Min. tensile strength 170,000 psi Also has design modifications to
make it stronger. (Thicker head)
Anything less than grade 8 is only recommended in applications where
strength is not an issue. Since the most common stainless steel, 18-8
Stainless has a minimum tensile strength of 75,000 psi, it doesn't qualify
for anything stressful.
I never heard the one about stainless hardening with use before. That is a
good one. 8^)
Use extreme caution when substituting bolts and nuts on your bike! (Or
anywhere else!)