Mike,
Fill up procedure:
1) Remember to only fill up in the morning when the petrol is cool and
dense.
2) Reset petcock to "Main" setting.
3) Wipe caked mud off of filler cap.
4) open tank cap.
5) Wipe under cap, base opening, and O-ring with towel.
6) Insert high octane filler nozzle into tank opening gently, holding towel
underneath to prevent dripping onto painted tank surfaces.
7) Hold towel over the filling activities to prevent atmospheric moisture
from contaminating the tank.
9) Fill until fuel level nearly reaches the filler neck while parked on the
sidestand. Get greedy here, and you may cause problems (see manual).
10) Firmly close cap and listen for positive latching action. Turn key to
lock and remove.
11) Reset odometer
12) Pay, eyeball the oil window, ride!
Eric
A13L "Beef"
Colorado Springs
-----Original Message-----
From: Scherer, Michael [mailto:MScherer@...]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 9:20 AM
To:
DSN_klr650@egroups.com
Subject: RE: [DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!!
Holy smokes. You guys are serious about changing the oil. What is the full
procedure for putting gas in the bike. :^)
I'm only kidding. There is some good advice in here.
Smartass Biker Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Hyman [mailto:professor.jim@...]
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2000 5:28 AM
To:
DSN_klr650@egroups.com
Subject: Re:[DSN_klr650] confused.........help!!!!
Richard,
Even with 37K on your KLR, I'm against your method of trying
to get every last bit of oil out. While the engine/tranny
ball bearings might not object to 1 or 2 seconds with no oil
pressure/splash, the camshafts are plain bearings, meaning
that they cams ride on a thin film of PRESSURIZED oil. At
1200 rmp (crank speed) the cams are rotating at 600 rpm, or
10 times per second. While there is a residual oil coating
on the cam bearings, there's no oil pressure.
Even if you let the oil drain out overnight, there will still
be residual oil clinging to the engine's internal surfaces.
I think a much better solution would be to refill with 2-1/2
quarts of oil, ride for 30 minutes to fully dilute the old
engine oil, then drain and replace the oil & filter.
BTW, you can drain about 4 more ounces of old motor oil if
you remove the drain plug at the bottom of the vertical oil
channel near the waterpump on the lower right front of the
engine. Don't lose the small sealing 0-ring.
The proper way to check the oil level is to run your engine
for 5 minutes after you have replaced the oil. Using the
sight glass as a visual check without first running the engine
leads to an improper reading. Filling up to the top of the
oil window will leave you with an actual level near the bottom
of the window AFTER you have run the engine. If you check the
oil level within 15 minutes after shutting off the motor, the
visual oil level will be about 1/8" lower than if you waited
for several hours before checking the oil level.
I've heard of mechanics using kerosene to flush out old oil.
I can't vouch for the validity or safety of this approach.
I don't know if they just idle the engine for a bit, or if
they actually drive around before they replace the oil.
If you're replacing your oil every 1,2 or 3000 miles, it's
overkill to go to such extremes when changing oil.
Different strokes for different folks... whatever works for you.
Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA]
++++++++++++++++++++++++
--- drainr@T... wrote:
>> (Should I put the full amount in or drain some??
>> (Thanks...........Jim L.
>> (Ride Safe
>
> Jim.....I normally run the engine for a second or two
> once the oil has drained.
> I hate doing it, but it releases about another cupfull.
> Make sure the filler cap is on. The pressure will spray
> about 6 ft.
>
> Richard D
> '98KLR 650c3 37k
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