gps vibration

[Nassif, Joe]

I already have the FSM and supplement for the bike, but am in need of the Factory Parts Manual. Anyone have a source for the KLR Parts Manual in Adobe PDF format that I can download? I've been fortunate in that I've been able to find them for Harley Davidson, Hondas and Buells. What about Kawasakis? The reason that I ask is that my recently purchased '99 KLR with 9500 miles has a blown wheel bearing. The left outside bearing (the one on the sprocket's driven flange) was complete toast, causing the left inside hub bearing to also get notchy. The right side bearing appears OK, but I'm going to replace it anyway. The axel took a little abuse, but it should be able to be adequately cleaned up. I don't know what could have caused the bearing to fail. I wasn't rusty, although I suppose it could have gotten wet and tried out, or it wasn't properly packed in the first place. I still need to measure the bearing spacer to see if it's too short causing the bearing to be crushed. But to get the part numbers, I would like to find a parts manual if anyone has a lead on one. Thanks Joe Nassif Santa Fe, NM A13

[Jim Jackson]

Joe, First, go to www.buykawasaki.com. They have the parts diagrams there. Then, ask me. I've got everything from the 99 model loaded into a zipped up MS Word file. Sorry, no PDFs. With regard to burning out that bearing, I'd take off the brake caliper and re-mount it. I have a second set of dirt tires/rims that I bought new parts for. After mounting everything up, the caliper jammed a little bit and after about 10 miles the bearing you are speaking of was toast. I didn't figure out what had caused it till I saw a thread here about a month ago. Good Luck and let me know if you want that file. Jim Jackson II A13 "Gonzo" South Carolina

> >I already have the FSM and supplement for the bike, but am in need of the >Factory Parts Manual. Anyone have a source for the KLR Parts Manual in >Adobe PDF format that I can download? I've been fortunate in that I've >been able to find them for Harley Davidson, Hondas and Buells. What about >Kawasakis? > >The reason that I ask is that my recently purchased '99 KLR with 9500 miles >has a blown wheel bearing. The left outside bearing (the one on the >sprocket's driven flange) was complete toast, causing the left inside hub >bearing to also get notchy. The right side bearing appears OK, but I'm >going to replace it anyway. The axel took a little abuse, but it should be >able to be adequately cleaned up. I don't know what could have caused the >bearing to fail. I wasn't rusty, although I suppose it could have gotten >wet and tried out, or it wasn't properly packed in the first place. I >still need to measure the bearing spacer to see if it's too short causing >the bearing to be crushed. > >But to get the part numbers, I would like to find a parts manual if anyone >has a lead on one. > >Thanks > >Joe Nassif >Santa Fe, NM >A13 >

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[Joe Percival]

If you go to the www.buykawasaki.com site you can navigate to the parts manual for your particular bike. Neither the pictues nor the descriptions give dimensions. Part numbers for the 99 bearings are: 601B6003G 601B6004UG 601B6204UG I want to replace mine also so let me know if you find a good source. Joe -----Original Message----- From: Nassif, Joe [SMTP:jnassif@...] Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 9:09 AM To: KLR-List Subject: [DSN_klr650] Wheel bearings and Parts Manual in PDF format I already have the FSM and supplement for the bike, but am in need of the Factory Parts Manual. Anyone have a source for the KLR Parts Manual in Adobe PDF format that I can download? I've been fortunate in that I've been able to find them for Harley Davidson, Hondas and Buells. What about Kawasakis? The reason that I ask is that my recently purchased '99 KLR with 9500 miles has a blown wheel bearing. The left outside bearing (the one on the sprocket's driven flange) was complete toast, causing the left inside hub bearing to also get notchy. The right side bearing appears OK, but I'm going to replace it anyway. The axel took a little abuse, but it should be able to be adequately cleaned up. I don't know what could have caused the bearing to fail. I wasn't rusty, although I suppose it could have gotten wet and tried out, or it wasn't properly packed in the first place. I still need to measure the bearing spacer to see if it's too short causing the bearing to be crushed. But to get the part numbers, I would like to find a parts manual if anyone has a lead on one. Thanks Joe Nassif Santa Fe, NM A13 Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

[Tom Myers]

Re: [DSN_klr650] GPS Vibration

[i]I talked to a guy the other day who had an eTrex, hard mounted to a WR400, and he said two battery contacts broke off due to vibration. That was the immediately visible damage, anyway.....[/i]

[i] [/i] [i]Using the RAM mount, with the RAM's main arm parallel to your handlebar, you get very good vibration isolation as the arm acts like a suspension arm. Run it perpendicular to the vertical vibration coming out of the engine. For example, A BMW boxer would run the arm fore-aft.[/i] [b] [/b] [b]Thanks for the great advice regarding the direction of the mounting arm, it makes sense.[/b] [b]Did your friend with the WR400 have the batteries in place when the contact broke off?[/b] Yes he was running it on the batteries.  I'd suggest doing this.  Fill the backside of the battery contacts with silicone.  Put the batteries in and let it harden.  Then remove the batteries and cut the silicone to release the contacts' spring tension.  You could possibly thread some dental floss ion there before the silicone, then use the floss to saw thru the silicone.  Or use a sewing needle to cut it (as I did).  Or maybe you can think of a another way to remove the space yet end up with compressive force on every battery ever installed in there.  Many methods!  The method described above it tested, and works well.  This was mentioned on http://www.cycoactive.com/obdr/obdr4_sid >enote.html, same for eMap and eTrex.  Possibly III+ owners could plug up the freespace in the battery spring with silicone in the same way. Tom -- +------------------------------------+ |  CycoActive Products             tel (206) 323-2349 |  701 34th Ave               fax (206) 325-6016 |  Seattle, WA 98122    USA |  website:   http://www.cycoactive.com |  e-mail:  TomMyers@... +------------------------------------+