long - brake tech - 86 ninja 1000
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- Posts: 188
- Joined: Mon Apr 10, 2000 7:35 am
long - brake tech - 86 ninja 1000
I don't know much about MAPP. I imagine their stuff is pretty darn good. The
problem is that with my KLR, I have a set of Avons for 90/10 street and
another set of Kenda/Chen Shens for 20/80 dirt. I can either buy an overize
kit and swap the rotor whenever I change rims, tires, sprockets and chain
out or I can buy another rotor at $365.00. Ouch. I can't afford that. So I
go to the local bike salvage and dig through a shelf of rotors with my old
nasty rotor in hand.
I'm looking for same bolt pattern, same hub mounting diameter, bigger
overall diameter. Came close. The KLR bolt pattern is 9 6mm hex screws. The
one I found is 6 mounting holes. Don't know the size yet. Hub mounting
diameter is exactly the same. The rotor istelf has lightening groves in it
so I think the my hub will need to be re-drilled rather than re-drilling the
rotor. Makes more sense anyway to me. Softer material. The radius is exactly
10mm wider than the KLR. So the overall diameter is 20mm larger. Contact
patch on the KLR is 30mm. Contact patch on the new rotor is 35mm (+/- 2).
Floating caliper. KLR rotor is 4mm thick. New rotor is 5mm thick. The new
caliper looked like single piston but it's a BIG piston.
The bike this came off of is a 1986 Kawi Ninja 1000. I got a smooth rotor,
caliper, all mounting brackets and screws for $120.00. I pick up the caliper
tomorrow.
I don't see how a radius change of 10mm is going to force the new bracket to
mount the new caliper very far from it's original location. I'm thinking
some kind of template to put on the hub to locate the holes and just make
sure you drill them straight. I can buy another rotor for 50 bucks or less
and have two complete sets of rims again only this time I'm gonna be able to
STOP.
I'll be talking with Chris Krok soon about getting this show on the road.
We'll keep everyone informed.
Thanks,
Jim Jackson II
A13 "Gonzo"
South Carolina
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