Wilsons Sandbox

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2000 6:51 pm**

are you sure it didn't do it when new? my bike (and my last bike, and every bike i've ridden with a wet multi-plate clutch) has exhibited this behavior. mw

> -----Original Message----- > From: The Squasher [mailto:thesquasher@...] > Sent: Tuesday, September 05, 2000 4:37 PM > To: DSN_klr650@egroups.com > Subject: [DSN_klr650] Clutch lever adjustment???? > > > I looked in the archives but couldn't find an answer to my > problem. My KLR > A15's clutch is sticking when cold. If the bike is in first > gear with the > engine off and I pull the clutch lever all the way to the > grip, I can not > move the bike. It has to be in neutral. If I hit the starter > button with the > bike in first and the clutch pulled in, the bike makes a > small lurch forward > for about 4 inches then continues to turn over and start. If > I start the > bike in neutral and then pull in the clutch and shift into > first the bike > lurches forward a little. With the bike in neutral, clutch > lever released > and the engine running the bike does not creep forward even > when cold. This > bike only has 122 miles on it. It didn't do this when new. I > replaced the > clutch lever because I bent the original one. The problem > showed up after I > installed the new clutch lever. I adjusted it to what the > manual suggests. 2 > mm and 15 mm end play. I reinstalled the old lever but the > problem is still > there. Is there some special trick to adjust the clutch > lever? I didn't do > anything to the bike accept change the bent clutch lever. > same oil that was > in it 122 miles ago > ______________________________________________________________ > ___________ > Get Your Private, Free E-mail from MSN Hotmail at

http://www.hotmail.com Share information about yourself, create your own public profile at http://profiles.msn.com Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Posted: **Tue Sep 05, 2000 11:29 pm**

[b]One thing I would caution anyone replacing shims is to make sure the new shims are absolutely clean. The new shims I sell come coated in a rust preventative that needs to be cleaned off before you install them in your engine. If your new shims have even a speck of dust, they could loose the seal that holds them in the valve buckets. Install new shims with the size markings on the bottom (away from cam) so the cam doesn't rub off the numbers. Make sure they are completely compressed into the valve buckets and clean. Then you won't have any problems of them coming out when they shouldn't. 8[/b] [b][/b] [b]Fred[/b] [b][/b]

----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] markw@... [b]To:[/b] robb_seurkamp@... ; DSN_klr650@egroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Tuesday, September 05, 2000 2:48 PM [b]Subject:[/b] RE: [DSN_klr650] Advice needed: Valve Shim time > Hello group. > Since I just received my super shim variety pack from Fred it is now > that time to adjust the tight intake shim and I am wondering. Should > I adjust all the other shims while I am in there? I think I remember > someone saying or maybe I read it in the archives. That is is better > to adjust the shims loose because the clearance will diminish over > time or it will increase over time. I can't quite remember what I > read and can't find it. > > Should I just adjust the Left intake and leave it at that? > I have a Y2K with 1975 miles. Clearances are > Left Intake .003/in > Right Intake .005 > Left Exhaust .005 > Right Exhaust .006 > > Thanks in advance. If you want to reply off list that is fine with > me. I don't want to stir up any big debate over shims. > > Robb S > nice of you to be so considerate, but in view of how many posts i've gotten about owner's group names and dickheads, i think everyone can put up with post that's actually in line with the purpose of this list. if i were you, i would replace all your shims. from memory, it seems like your exhaust valves are either out of spec (left) or right on the border (right) (isn't the exhaust spec .006-.010?). i figure that as long as you have it apart, you may as well do em all. otherwise you'll be worrying about the ones that are close until you get in there next time. the valves certainly do get tighter over due to valve and seat wear. the valve gradually sits higher and higher into the seat, so the other end of the valve pushes against the shim which gets closer and closer to the cam. all my valves (on a y2k model) closed up about .002 over the first 6k miles, so i shimmed them all to the loose side of spec. i'm up to 12.5k now, and due any day to check them again. i'm pretty confident it will be only a check, since they were fairly loose before, but you never know. note: don't forget to recheck the clearances with the new shims. 2 of mine were exactly what i calculated, but 2 of them were .001 tigher than i calculated, which was still fine, but i recorded the actual measurements afterwards so as to get an idea of the wear rates from 6-12k. mw Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Wilsons Sandbox

[dsn_klr650] advice needed: valve shim time

[dsn_klr650] clutch lever adjustment????

[dsn_klr650] advice needed: valve shim time