Wilsons Sandbox

i'm sure you'll get a lot of recommendations for the garmin gps3+, but i'd like to strike up a vote for the garmin 12map. it has the same program as the 3+ but has, in my opinion, a much sturdier case which is also quite waterproof (don't ask). bar mounting is real convenient and pretty easy to do, although you might consider otherwise if you ride really rough stuff alot. if you put it on the bars, wire it up to the bike and take the batteries out to avoid damaging the unit... -----Original Message----- From: Bryan Loehr [mailto:bryanl@...] Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 8:40 PM To: KLR Listers Subject: [DSN_klr650] Current best GPS Listers, Went to the archives to get a little info on GPS units. Did OK, but it would be way more convenient if I could just get the current collective list wisdom on what is the best way to go with GPS. One specific question I have is, is it better to have a handlebar mount or something that's carried in your pocket. How specific are they on FR roads? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bryan Loehr A12 Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

Who knows what the collective wisdom is my guess is buy from Tom at www.cycoactive.com either the Garmin GPS III plus or emap with the best mount you can afford (I use Touratech) and hardwire it into your bike's electrics... Kurt

----- Original Message ----- From: "Bryan Loehr" To: "KLR Listers" DSN_klr650@egroups.com> Sent: Tuesday, August 08, 2000 6:40 PM Subject: [DSN_klr650] Current best GPS > Listers, > > Went to the archives to get a little info on GPS units. Did OK, but it > would be way more convenient if I could just get the current collective > list wisdom on what is the best way to go with GPS. One specific question > I have is, is it better to have a handlebar mount or something that's > carried in your pocket. How specific are they on FR roads? Any help would > be appreciated. > > Thanks, > > Bryan Loehr A12 > > > > Visit the KLR650 archives at > http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 > Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... > Let's keep this list SPAM free! > > Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: > DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com > > >

Bryan: Like Peter said I am going to give the nod to the Garmin GPS III+. I was able to limit my search down to the Garmin Emap, Lowrance Global Map-100 and the Garmin GPS III+. I went with the III+ because of the waterproof case, handlebar mounts available, changeable screen orientation, and user base. The Emap is very nice, but I ride in the rain and I feared I would toast the unit given enough time. I like the using the TouraTech handlebar mount because you can get a quick idea of your location on the fly (if you want to see a picture of the unit mounted let know and I will send you a picture). As Pete recommended if you go with a handlebar mount then hard wire the power lead to the bike and remove the batteries. I have had few positional discrepancies with the Mapsource Roads & Rec. CD even on small road. One last thought: Buy what meets your needs, there is no one correct answer here just personal preference. John

On Tue, 8 Aug 2000 17:40:02 -0700, Bryan Loehr wrote: Listers, Went to the archives to get a little info on GPS units. Did OK, but it would be way more convenient if I could just get the current collective list wisdom on what is the best way to go with GPS. One specific question I have is, is it better to have a handlebar mount or something that's carried in your pocket. How specific are they on FR roads? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Bryan Loehr A12 _______________________________________________________ Say Bye to Slow Internet! http://www.home.com/xinbox/signup.html

>Who knows what the collective wisdom is my guess is buy from Tom at >www.cycoactive.com either the Garmin GPS III plus or emap with the best >mount you can afford (I use Touratech) and hardwire it into your bike's >electrics...

Hi Bryan, Kurt Knows best!!! heh heh thanks Kurt! Response is kinda long because I'll be out next week....... I think the GPSIII+ is the best for a hardcore GPSer, who likes functions and understands GPS, but it's limited to show a map area of about 100 miles square (1.4 Mb of hi-detail). The eMap (which is a recent product) is dumbed down, but has the ability to load HUGE maps, a major plus. You're limited only by the number of datacards you carry. You can get 8Mb, 16Mb, 32Mb and soon up to 128Mb!! I'm currently using the eMap simply because of the map size. It has most of the functions I need but I get mildly pissed off at the lack of tekky functions. It's a hi-tech toy fergawdssake where's the functions! What I want is a III+ with the map capacity of the eMap. But that's just me - I was using GPS back when it was just 'numbers'. Now it's maps, and you rarely look at the 'numbers'. Maps - on the screen of the GPS - are the way to go. Here's my advice. I usually recommend the "III+" for dirtbikers, and "eMap" for KLRs and BMWs and folks who do the bigger miles. If you're new, go for the eMap and don't worry about the III+ functions - you'll never miss them if you never saw them. On a KLR, you'll find that you need the big maps. For Software, choose "US Roads and Rec" first, add "TOPO" if you still have money in your wallet. If you live in a large metro area, you might prefer "Metroguide" as a first choice - it's really fun, but not so great for the backcountry. Depends how you intend to use it. Santa will likely prefer the Metroguide. Definitely plan to hardwire the GPS into 12v power. For the eMap, the powercord has a converter that drops from 12v down to 2.5v. This converter must be hardened for m/c use or it will die (100% chance). We also harden the III+ for better reliability. We haven't had any reports of the eMap having problems from vibration, but it's a new product (with a year warranty). Plus, all of our customers are using good vibration-isolated mounts that smooth the ride (it's an engine vibration issue, not terrain). Touratech will make a mount for the eMap soon, which includes the power converter, but it's expensive. I use the eMap on the RAM mount. You can't go wrong with this setup (eMap+RAM). If you position the main arm parallel to the engine crankshaft, you get very good vibration isolation. You might ask Dreas Nielsen how he's doing wit his. Give a call and we'll try to answer questions. I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon for CA, so you'll have to talk to Nick. Will return to WA via the "Oregon Backcountry Discovery Route"; (700 miles across Oregon on gravel; http://www.oohva.org)!!! Tom -- +-------------------------------------+ | C y c o A c t i v e P r o d u c t s | 701 34th Ave | Seattle, WA 98122 USA | tel (206) 323-2349 fax (206) 325-6016 | N47 36.496' W122 17.396' | GPS ---(Garmin only) plus mounts, software & accessories | GPS website: http://www.cycoactive.com/gps | e-mail: gps@... +-------------------------------------+

Yo! Just got back from a mini-vacation, and am catching up on the digests.

> > Based on that of the KL650A, the KL650C's engine boasts a 10% increase > > in flywheel mass, resulting in increased torque across the rev range. > > What a load of bollocks. > Torque is created by gas pressure on the piston. I'm finding it > difficult to see how more flywheel metal increases the cylinder > pressure.

I think they mean "percieved" torque. The extra mass gives the engine side of the drivetrain a bit more rotational inertia, so when you dump the clutch, you can convert that rotational inertia to acceleration. But I don't know where they get that "across the rev range" crap, either. You lose all of that stored energy as soon as you engage the clutch. I mean, I guess the piston pressure would stay higher longer since the engine also has to accelerate the flywheel, but I don't think that compares to the problem of accelerating the rest of the bike and rider! And yes, it also slows down the engine's ability to accelerate. There's a little ditty about flywheel mass in the Mazdatrix catalog, and basically, a heavy FW makes the car more streetable, and a lighter one lets the engine spin up faster (but you need to slip the clutch more to get started). Sorry to hear about your Electrex problems, Dash... The unit on my 'zuki has been working well. And I wanted to add extra lights to my bike, too. Guess I'll just use one or five of those old bicycle generators that runs off of the rear wheel... Incidentally, guys & gals, I don't have oil drain plug washers on either of my bikes or my car, and have never lost a plug or leaked oil. Although, I was planning on getting new washers anyway... I've had similar bad mechanic experiences with my smog check problems, too. Went to a place close to work for this year's test, and the guy didn't know how to interpret the readings on the analyzer. I just need the carb leaned out a bit (fixed some leaky vac diaphragms), but he thought the readings said both lean AND rich. Idiot broke my window mechanism, too. The guy said he's worked on all sorts of cars, but doesn't see many rotaries. Maybe he should've said that he's changed air filters on all sorts of cars. I'd be happy to fiddle with the carb, but I don't have an n-thousand-dollar exhaust analyzer. Chris -- Dr. J. Christopher Krok Project Engineer, Adaptive Wall Wind Tunnel Graduate Aeronautical Laboratories, California Institute of Technology MS 205-45 Phone: 626.395.4794 Pasadena, CA 91125 Fax: 626.449.2677