Wilsons Sandbox

[b] [color=#008080][b]For the final word (almost!) in valve adjustment, check out this page....[/b][i][/color][/i] [b]http://www.geocities.com/~klrdsn/page27.html[/b]   [b]Fred[/b]  

[/color][/b]----- Original Message ----- [b]From:[/b] steve6018@... [b]To:[/b] DSN_klr650@egroups.com [b]Sent:[/b] Friday, July 28, 2000 6:22 PM [b]Subject:[/b] [DSN_klr650] valve adjustment...help me! I got a 2000 model with 1700 miles on it and need some help with this valve lash check/adjustment.  I haven't got around to getting a shop manual yet, and have the valve covers off.... now i realise i need some help!  Is there anybody out there that has a scanner that can email me the valve adjustment procedure from the manual.   thanks Visit the KLR650 archives at http://www.listquest.com/lq/search.html?ln=klr650 Support Dual Sport News... dsneditor@... Let's keep this list SPAM free! Visit our site at http://www.egroups.com/group/DSN_klr650 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: DSN_klr650-unsubscribe@egroups.com

While performing the CDI tests, my digital multi meters (DMM) gave results that indicated most of the circuits under test were 'open' (no continuity). My FLUKE 73 meter is auto-ranging and even when I locked in a test range (1k ohms) nothing changed. My other meter requires you to select the proper test range and my results were no different. Keep in mind that a bench or static test is usefull in determining if an electrical component is bad. Just because it checks out ok doesn't mean that it will work properly or reliably in real world use. Vibration and/or heat can cause an electrical component to fail or operate intermittently. This applies to alternators, voltage regulators, ignition coils and even fuses or light bulbs. Sometimes the best test is to substitute a known working unit & see if the problem disappears. The danger with this approach is if another component or problem caused the initial problem & ends up nuke-ing the replacement unit. I'll hazard a guess that Dash's CDI unit may have failed due to a problem with the charging system or a failing battery. Electronic ignitions have been known to give up the ghost for no apparrent reason, they just die. If I were fixing Dash's bike, I would install a good battery and verify that the charging system is operating properly during an extended test ride. If the ignition/tach problems persisted, I would then swap out the CDI unit. I think that this is Dash's game plan, even if he gets valid CDI test results with an analog meter. We'll just have to stay tuned to the ongoing soap opera/bonding sessions. Professor A9 Federal Way, WA. [USA] --- "Robert E. Faircloth, D.M.D." wrote:

> Dash, > > Sounds a lot like the CDI that died on me. About half > the readings were bad. All 'bad' values were either open > or in the 1-3 megohm range, with a digital meter. > ---- Original Message ----- > I'll get an analog meter just to verify this. However, > I wasn't getting erratic results. I was getting very > stable values, they were just way off from what the chart > indicates. I also made a chart but I left mine at home > this morning. I'll take a break in a couple of hours > and go get it. Just to give you an example though, the > entire chart calls for readings in the kohm range. Much > of my chart is in the MegOhm range and yet a few other > cells of the chart are in the ohm range. The only thing > that was right on was the opens with the Bk/W wire.